everydayrider99

I dont believe I have a power commander, I feel dumb asking, but where would it even be located? I rode the bike to work, ran fine. Left work 10 hours later, it ran for 3 minutes and then just shut off. It cranks hard, all power is there. It sounds like the fuel pump is running, but is doing so dry. I pulled the fuel line and fuel ran out. So there is not blockage. It seems like it is not getting spark.

All vacuum lines are good. My bike starts with random vacuum lines off, it just runs like shit. I swapped all of the relays around and they all seem to functioning. This blows. It just died all of a sudden like it ran out of gas instantly. Is there a fuel shut off valve that I for some reason dont know about that someone could be messing with me?

Whats up guys, I am work on the night shift. Started my bike to go home, it started normally, got about 1500 feet from work and it jsut cut out. The starter is turning over, the fuel pump kicks on, the battery seems to be great becasue of how many times it has turned over without starting. Full tank of gas. I lifted the tank and loosened the fuel line, turned the key to make sure the fuel pump was creating pressure... it is... It wont fire up.. whats the deal? Fuel cut off relay?? All fuses look good from what I can tell. Please help thanks.

Apologies, my intentions were to not use sticky greasy petroleum lubes that will collect dirt and innevitably make the problem worse.

Same problem... bike sat while. Environment took its toll. Get a new key cut... use some lube(you probably have plenty of that lying around). jk, no petroleum based lubes, like they said, WD40 or graphite powder

Interesting- I have a 2000 model, and never knew about this glitch, and have never felt it. My mileage runs low 40's at best (Illinois-600' above sea level). Goes on reserve at about 200 miles. XX is mechanically stock except for a K&N air filter. Next ride, I'm going to try to feel this. You obviously found this remapping yours, but did you notice it before that? No.. I did not. You are correct.. once I did the mapping and found it, then I knew why my tail pipes were all Black with Soot. Later I reloaded the Zero Map, which basically returns the bike to stock mapping, and again I was able to feel and see it. When I say see it... it's because I have a Wide band Air Fuel Ratio gauge mounted on my bike. Although it's not as noticeable it is still there. What it feels like is Deceleration..... Like you closed the throttle a little more, when in fact you did not. I'll admit, it is hard to feel on a stock bike, because the AFR change from 13:1 to 11:1 is not that bad... but it is enough to cause you to loose 10% in your fuel mileage for those periods. When I leaned out my bike to run at 15:1 in those same ranges... the impact was HUGE, and it felt like someone hitting the Brakes. If you look for it... carefully and methodically you'll find it... you'll feel it.... and then... it'll drive you Nutz. It is driving me nuts thinking about it.... now I am going to shit myself tomorrow on my way to work when I feel it. Then I am going to shit myself again when I convince to buy a PC i can't afford. Spanks EVL, spanks a lot. Starting tomorrow, I am going to ride no more than 75 mph for the entire tank of gas and see what happens. No revving past 7K, baby it. I only got 130 out of the last tank, I will blame myself for that one if ya know what im sayin.

Hey my man, sorry I did not see your post sooner, I would have taken a bunch of pics. It was much easier than I thought. If I were to do it all over again, it would probably only take 2-3 hours to tear down, rejet, put back together. Just google search Honda magna Rejet, and there are several guys who have taken step by step photos and instructions on the magna. The VF should be very similar, and possibly more simple as it is a bit older. http://www.shotsnapped.com/public/carburetor/ ....... for instance. All carbs function nearly the same. If the bike is old and has been sitting, it is going to waste not being used anyway... might as well learn on it.

It has to be the speed, I would like to hear from some guys who have the self control to commute at 70-75. Especially people getting over 40 mpg

I am currently running some cheap o's. Shinko 009 Raven. Very comparable to the Dunlops I had before. They are great for warm weather, and dryness. It hasnt rained here in almost 2 months... fire season, yay. I can break them loose a little getting on it hard around turns, but for me... it is kind is of fun to control a small drift and leave some rubber on the road. They have about 3000 miles on them, the rear will need replacing in another 1000. Maybe more, but for the price, fuck it I will get a new one. Old man down the street has a tire changer and balance. I like free. To add to the cruiser comment, I have a 97 Magna, with 'sport touring tires'. I know the Magna is ballsier than most cruisers, but I can break the back tire loose pretty easily through turns. Not as much control as the Blackbird and it sketches me out a little bit. I do not use it to commute, after commuting on the blackbird... no fuckin way. It is for short jots around town and down to the local biker bar. I guess it depends on what type of cruiser you are thinking, 80 HP is too much for rock hard tires. Get a Hardley... you can probably run a cement based tire on that without breaking loose. kRYPT also... what kind of car do you drive? You must get some bad ass MPG to make up for the cost of burning tires. The way I look at it, new cars that get 40 MPG cost you $25 k, and you will probably get 200 k miles out of the newer cars. The blackbird cost me $2800, and I will probably get 100,000 miles out of it. You have to factor in the this cost. So for every mile I drive, it costs me 2.8 cents per mile. That new $25 k car at 200000 miles will have cost 12.5 cents per mile. I may be thinking too much into this... My Jag S type-R only gets about 20 MPG, and I can burn up a reat set in 5000 miles at $400 a pair. So I am basically a dick if I don't commute on my bike in sunny SoCal. 65 mile commute, 3 miles until i get to the highway. Sooo 59 miles highway, 6 miles city. EVLXX - I dont like the sound of this glitch you are talking about. I have read some crap about it before, but was unsure. I am a couple beers deep, time to pull the carbs on the magna and rejet.

Good info, I am surprised about the altitude change. I too ride like I stole it. Maybe I will go a few days to work at 70 mph and see what happens. Sorry to get so technical with this, but when I plan on putting 100,000 miles on this bike and I am currently only at 16000.... those 5-10 MPG are going to make a big fucking difference in the total riding cost of my bike. Keep it coming.

Wondering how many MPG people get in comparison to some details. I would like to see how some of these details effect MPG, guessing that various bikes of the same make and year cannot possibly vary much in MPG. It has to be the different riding styles and aerodynamic of rider sizes. The bike itself is relatively aerodynamic, but when you throw on a big fatty, you create much more drag. I am averaging 30 MPG with the following.... 99 bird stock pipes. (K&N filter) Height: 6'3" Weight: 215 Windscreen:Stock Mostly highway riding at indicated 85-90 mph. Commuting. (no tickets in my life) wood being knocked on. Altitude: I know FI takes care of this mostly, but 0 to 1000 ft. Do you tuck? not your balls.. but how do you ride, sitting upright, or lean on the tank? I tuck as much as possible. any other shit? The main thing I am thinking here is aerodynamics. A taller wider person just cannot tuck as well, creating much more wind drag. I know speed has a lot to do with it as wind drag grows exponentially with speed. So when making comparisons, I would like to see how some other shit comes into play.

Well it didn't happen after the sprocket change, but it did happen after the spark plug change. When hurrying to my air box back on, I failed to notice one of the bottom hose clamp under the box was spun in a way that put the little tabs you squeeze under the air box. Thus not seating properly above spark plug 4. That little sucking noise was coming from a tiny crack under the air box. Note to self, don't be an ass tomorrow while re-jetting my Magna. If anyone here has experience with carbs from a V4 and wants to shoot me some tips, please do. I will be up reading V45 Magna forums for awhile.

Quickly delivery, easy install, bike sounds good. Thanks man.

Hi-jacking the thread.. but still applies.. Has anyone bought any of the aftermarket plastics from this guy on EBAY?? from hong kong or something? He has pretty legit reviews... but ordering $500 worth of plastics from Hong Kong scares me. Would be nice to know if any has experience.

Ordered a CCT and some plastic push pins earlier today, thanks man.

Update, no substantial improvement to MPG, little more balls top end. Still an overall succes.

That was my first thought, double checked all vacuums. And since the noise subsides as the bikes warms up, I feel it has to be something else. I am not too worried about it honestly, the bike feels great. As long as everything feels mechanically sound and it isnt throwing out codes at me... besides the knock of course, I am happy. I am glad my previous thread was of some use to people!

I recently posted a topic on Bad mpg, did some typical maintenance to the bike. Chain, sprockets, cleaned clutch rod, bleed clutch, spark plugs, air filter, vacuum tubes, FPR, fuel feed hose, think thats about it. Anyway.. I have noticed on start up there is a a mild scratching sound from what sounds like the front right side of the bike. Maybe near the clutch. Kind of like if if two metal plates were spinning and lightly rubbed each other. Or almost like a sucking of short bursts of air quickly, like if you did it through your teeth.(Don't use your imagination) I wish I could record it, but I don't think it would sound the same with my camera. The sound lessens as the bike heats up. Everything feels great besides the noise. Much smoother everything. Can't update on mpg yet. When I cleaned the clutch rod I noticed there were identifiable lines running perpendicular to the length of the rod. I did not take note which end goes in first. Does this matter? It seems perfectly uniform in shape and what not, but I cant think of what else I might have done to cause this. Any help would be appreciated.

I am a butthole. Yes I am wrong on this. When putting my tank back on the final time, I pushed against the main center vacuum hose.... The FI code was correct, and these are definitely the symptoms you will get.

OK... got everything back together. My idle sucks, and the throttle is VERY jumpy, I cannot ease onto the throttle, it just kicks up like a dropped the clutch. I pull in the clutch and try to raise the RPM slow.. they shoot up about 2K rpms and as long as I keep climbing they rise normally. The FI light kicks on, and all of the problems dissapear. The FI code is 2. Which is supposively a vacuum hose or faulty MAP sensors. Neither of these would create the symptoms I am getting, and the FI light coming on should not be able to fix either of these things. Am I Wrong here?

If you consider last week 2 weeks ago now... good chance it was me. I ride up Live Oak, stop at Cook's Corner for a beer, ride up to Irvine Lake, turn around, stop at Cook's Corner for another beer, ride home... typical weekend route for my 3 'old' bikes.

Hey Mike.... were you and another blackie on Rose Canyon road a couple weeks ago? I live up the road from the Cantina and saw two parked on Rose Canyon.

Nah, the hose is old and cracking, it split in more than one spot now. I found some guys called The hose guys who take care of hydraulic tubing and components..... too bad I already ordered the part. Found one for $60... oh well. I am not rich, but I want my damn hose, and a fuel leak is nothign to mess around with especially on a bike. I will suck it up and take OEM on this one. I will say though... between the sprockets, chain, air filter, spark plugs, oil, fiter, new clutch fluid, new vacuum hoses, and an overall extreme detail... the bike felt fucking great for the 5 miles I rode it until I lifted the tank for a view of gas misting everywhere. Basically creating a nice fuel/air mixture to make a vapor BOOOOM. One more week and I will be good to go.

I cant update yet... switched out the air filter and plugs today. Actually much easier than I expected. Anyway, when I got everything back together, I lifted the tank slightly, peaked in, started the bike, and gas started spraying a nice costly mist out of the fuel feed hose. This was not the problem to begin with, I have looked under the tank while it was running plenty of times recently. All of the moving around the tank and what not must have cracked it, it looks pretty dried out. At least I am learning quite a bit about my bike with all the part swaps. Any easy fixes for the hose? Or just order a new one for 69.95 from an online site? 69.95 for 4 ounces of steel and some rubber, nice.

Well yes this temperature issue interesting... never heard of anything like it. On the highway, my indicator is almost at C. Which I thought was a good thing, that the bike runs cool, rather than hot. I know too cold sucks.. but mid to low good?