Justin
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Posts posted by Justin
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I have had a K&N filter in my 1990 Audi V8 Quattro for about 10 years. I just went to give it its semi-annual (annual?) cleaning and it really looks like crap. Should I just replace it? How long can one expect these to last?
mmmmmm.... V8 quattro, man I love those cars. Anyway, as long as you can clean it and re-apply the oil it'll be fine; assuming the element is in good shape, no tears or holes etc. The element itself is just a medium for the oil, so unless it's damaged you can use it forever.
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Your stock charging system should be able to handle the heated liner and gloves. My stator shit the bed at about 50k though running the heated gear a lot. I do use a voltmeter though monitor battery voltage. If your volts drop down to 12.7 or less for a long time it mean the alt is running high loads to charge the battery and run the heated gear and bike electrics.
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Thanks, gentlemen. This should make a good rainy day project.
You will be amazed at the difference it makes... I do a lot of night riding, and with the HID your field of vision is farther and wider. The first few times I rode with HID I was amazed at what I could see...
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I have about 20k with my ballasts mounted like you want to without any issues. I have never even noticed them hot to the touch.
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CCT (I think- sounds a little rough upon startup and then goes away)
Hmm.. that sounds more like the clutch to me, in my experience XX's always sound rough in neutral when you start them; particularly cold. CCT will be continuous, especially apparent at idle.
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Just checking here before I go out of network. I'm looking for an XX frame that's in usable or repairable condition that has corresponding legal paperwork. If you're not sure if its repairable, drop me a note anyway and we'll discuss the condition. Year is unimportant. And as always, I'm interested in wrecked XX's of any sort if you know where any are hiding.
Thanks.
Like you didn't have enough in your "salvage yard"?
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Warchild's cunt box is a pretty clean install, waterproof switches in a project box, mounted on the bars.
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just heat shrink the end and forget about it... I wouldn't just cut it and leave it like that, even if just for the sake of doing it the right way.
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hmmm.... no restriction on mine either, have hit close to 11k in 6th a number of times.
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Good price for the mileage... My friend Carl's has 85k on it now
... but yeah, it's still ugly! -
I replied on this earlier but for some reason it isn't here as I looked later. Anyway, here is a good link to the subject:
http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...amp;hl=fork+oil
I love this forum
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You can try and do it by undoing the bolts in the bottom of the fork legs that holds in the damper rod but the correct way entails removing the forks
This way you can drain it properly :icon_think:Oh well, gonna have to do it the hard way then....
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How hard is it to replace the fork oil on the XX? I didn't see specific directions in the manual, so just wondering if you need to take the forks off... Or is their a drain plug somewhere?
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A few posts down Warchild is also selling an Erion full system... by far, one of the best and sweetest sounding setups...
Actually, it's not a full system, rather, a pair of Erion Racing Black Aluminum slip-ons, and they do indeed sound sweeeeeet......
My bad... I was thinking of sfarson's old XX, had the full system, great sounding can!
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Well, I ordered an R1 R/R just in case... If the new stator solves the charging problem, I'll just set up the R1 R/R so that it can be readily dropped in to replace the original should it ever fail - might even pre-run the wire and everything.
FWIW, the connector between the stator and R/R looked great - clean, no signs of charring, burning or high heat.
Of course, I still want to know how my stator died (I DO run heated gear/grips, GPS & radar, and very occasionally sat. radio, but I do have a voltmeter right on the dash to switch stuff off (or rev the bike!) if it charges below, say, 13VDC - which only happened at idle anyway, even with everything on at once)..
My stock stator died at @ 50k... I run in extreme weather w/ heated gear, aux lighting etc. I replaced it with an eletrosport which is better built and has more output (an extra 150 watts or so). I just blame constant high current draws for mines failure.
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From the get-go: shut off my bike (2002 XX, had the big/finned R/R) after returning from work last week, re-started it a few minutes later to spray some lube on the chain up, no problem. About an hour later went to go on an evening jaunt, no go. Gave a faint, weak whir of the starter motor, then only dim dash lights. Jumped from another bike, started up fine but wouldn't climb above 12.5V no matter how high it was revved so I left it sit.
The battery was about 3 YO, so I decided to start w/ a brand new, freshly charged battery (slow charged it at 1.5 amps all night first), and got the same results; voltage across batt. terminals stayed around 12V at all revs, did not fluctuate (FWIW, battery was at 13+ volts when charged, so obviously the bike was not charging the battery). Gotta be the stator and/or R/R, wishfully hoping for the latter...
Now pardon me as I over-explain this, wanted to do so for the benefit of others that might have a similar situation in the future, and provide some more data points on the Bird's charging system issues.
Ran through the diagnosis chart: http://www.cbr1100xx.org/files/reference/charging_diag.pdf
Following that diagnosis with a digital multi-meter (DMM):
- Had lower than 13.5VDC @ 2500 RPM (= 12.2VDC when I checked that time). Down 1 step.
- R/R has 3 yellow, 2 red/white, 2 green and 1 black wire = 4 total colors. Down 1 step.
- engine idling, black lead to batt. (+), red lead to to red/white R/R wire = 0.12VDC. Down 1 step.
- engine idling, red lead to batt. (-), black lead to green R/R wire = 0.07 VDC. Down 1 step (to "B")
- engine idling, Red lead to to batt (+) and black lead to black R/R wire = 0.52VDC
Over 1 step???
OK, this concerned me a bit as more than 0.2VDC in the chart leads to a "bad connection from batt (+) through ignition switch to switched +12V supply inlet on R/R". I will open and clean out the ignition switch just in case, but I still wanted to check out the R/R and Stator independently (and glad I did!)
- I didn't bother checking out stator resistance, I just wanted to know if it was putting out the juice or not. Engine running @ 5,000 RPM, I got the following readings across the 3 yellow stator wires: 8.8VAC, 12.2VAC, & 20.0VAC. = stator is at fault (which makes sense given that the bike was not charging enough, instead of overcharging)
Knowing the stator is bad, then I checked the R/R:
It took me a bit to find the "diode test function" on the meter, on this DMM it looks like it's in with the OHM selection range, that's what threw me. So assuming I'm using the meter the right way, here are the results:
- Black lead to red R/R wire, red lead to all 3 yellow R/R wires in sequence = 0.5Volts, OK (spec was "around 0.5 V")
- Red lead to green R/R wire, black lead to all 3 yellow R/R wires in sequence = 0.5 volts, OK (spec was "around 0.5 V")
Based on this, should I grab an R1 R/R to install as well as the stator - just in case? Or is the '02 R/R robust enough to handle a few more years. Based on the R/R diagnosis, it seems like I caught the stator issue before it damaged the R/R - thoughts?
If the R/R works, leave it... mine was fine, but I got an after-market one when I did my stator and replaced it anyway. I keep the extra in my tool bag now.... one never knows.
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A few posts down Warchild is also selling an Erion full system... by far, one of the best and sweetest sounding setups...
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Simply awesome bike... sorry, I can only dream of it at this time
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Manual says 4.1, mine was alway fine with 4.
same here.. never had to add more than 4 to get it almost to the top of the full mark on the dip stick
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Nice bike, curious though, why the need for so many fan mods? Did it overheat?
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makes your bike run like shit... yeap, with the smaller filters on bikes you can't follow the instructions on the K&N clean/recharge kit. They say to hold can 3" from filter and spray along each pleat. The pleats are so close together on the bike filter this wound up over oiling the element, started it up, and ran like it had emphysema. So I puller it back out, cleaned it again, gave it a very light spray, now she runs like a raped ape.
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This Givi Wingrack kit contains everything you need to mount both sidecases and a top box. I had used this system for just a couple weeks last year; it is in like-new condition! Take it all for only $175, shipped and insured!
Send me a PM for my PayPal account info, if you are interested.
Here is the kit holding a pair of aux fuel cells, and here on the top rack I am using a Givi E21, which is normally a side case:
Good god, you could do a BBG on one fill-up!
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I'd hope your new chain came clean....
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Well, I can agree that they are not the most sleek looking things but I won't see them while riding. I could care less. I'm sure some where I'll pass some poor sap stuck on a VeeStrom650 or GS1200 with big ass square aluminum cases and leave him thinking "those bags were ugly but that bike was fast." Besides, when I mount the 46 Givi on the tail rack I am immediately removed from the beauty pageant. How much worse could it get?
Thanks John. I appreciate the good deal and plan to put them to good use. Enjoy Nexxt. You should come to Texxt.
Trust me, my bike ain't pretty.... specially with the Givi's, the fuel cell and the beaded seat cover on it lol... not to mention the outside don't get washed much... and yeah, those bags are still ugly, but I'd use em!
Help, track bike won't start
in The Garage
Posted
Bank angle sensor, kills power if the bike falls over.