Justin
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Posts posted by Justin
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Two words.. Respro Foggy. It's the best $24 I ever spent. I ride year round and not a bit of fog (and it get cold in CO!).
http://www.aerostich.com/off-and-riding/sc...reathguard.html
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thanks seems the road is the choice for the rear. now for the front.
do the roads up front last long enough to burn two rears to one front < i assume i will still get 4-5k miles out of the rear>?
for the guys that mix the power and roads when you change out the rear what is generally left of the power front when the rear is cooked?
My thinking is, if im not going to get two rears to every front with the roads i might as well put a power up front.
With the stones 020 i think the front tire would go another rear but i just don't like the tire enough to keep it.
Using the Power Front with the Road rear it seems that they are wearing just about the same. Based on their current wear I will most likely swap them both out around 6k. On the XX I used a Metzeler Z6 rear and M1 front and i would get about twice from the front as the rear.
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Pilot Road 2CT rear, Pilot Power front. Works for me.
Same combo for me on the Busa .. works great. Have 5k on the rear right now, and right around 2mm of tread left, might get 6k from it. Granted it was my winter tire and mounted in October. Mileage could be substantially less on my next set once the roads are clean and the riding pace picks up.
Anyway, the PR2 is a great tire, last long and it's pretty damn sticky for an s/t tire. And who cares about giving up a tiny bit of grip, after all, sliding through turns can be fun
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I picked up the DDM Tuning 55W 5000K kit and a cheap delay timer off eBay for mine. The 5000K has an ice blue/white beam, very eye catching.
The light output is absolutely amazing.
There is one disadvantage . . . it makes your incandescent high beam look almost useless !!!
Can anybody actually confirm or disprove the need for a delay, it would save me having to wire up a delay on the Hayabusa when I get it running.
On the Gen II busa the HID's have been known to reset the clock from time to time because they pull more amps at start up.
The delay is easy to wire up.
I've had no problem with mine so far.. I do the "hold the starter button, turn on the key, then pull in the clutch sequence" though, so the lights don't come on till the engine is running.
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Pilot road 2's
yep top rated in mileage and rain..
PR2's for me too.
Do either of you find that once you get about 2k miles on the Pilot Road 2's that they get a little greasy and lose some traction?
Not my experience either. I run a PR2 rear and Pilot Power2 front combo on both the XX and the Busa. Best tires ever IMO.
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Still think the stock XX light is better than the stock Busa
My biggest complaint about the XX lights is that they (particularly the low beam) seem to have a very flat "plane" on the bottom. So when you ride windy roads at night the light beam tips up and you can't see squat. Straight line or moderate curves it is great.
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I would have thought every new bike out there would have had a more effective headlight than a 98 Blackbird…… I was wrong.
Ogre over on the Busa forums is doing retrofit HID housing for the Hayabusa, it basically uses a projector for the high and low, instead of just for the high beam. I have HIDs in the stock housing and they are a big improvement. I think the light pattern is better than the XX in most cases, particularly around corners at night. Went HID on the XX about 5 years ago and will never ride without them again!
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Big Crank! I have one on my 750 (Bird doesn't need one yet), and it spins the crap out of it.
I'll give ya a "big crank"! Seriously though, never heard of them. Usually by the time I need a battery though I have to get something close, and I don't think anyone local carries those.
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Anyone have HID's from DDM? Wondering on the color of the 55W 4500K kit. Some claim the extra W means you are over driving the bulb and need a higher K. But I got no experance with them. Ideally I'd like 4300K as apparently it is the whitest but at that price it is hard to go wrong.
DDM's colors are tested and spot on. The 4500k is the best if you are out for the best visibility at night, as it's closest to pure sunlight. 4500 isn't the "whitest", it's more yellow-white, like sun light. 5000-5500 is in the pure white range, anything above that and get into the blues and violets.. which while the look "cool" do not have as much visibility at night.
There are tons of people using DDM kits over on the Busa forum and all I see is positive feedback.
Anyone have HID's from DDM? Wondering on the color of the 55W 4500K kit. Some claim the extra W means you are over driving the bulb and need a higher K. But I got no experance with them. Ideally I'd like 4300K as apparently it is the whitest but at that price it is hard to go wrong.I had to do a quick Google search to figure out what K to order.
http://www.manyadeal.com/page.html?id=24
I went with 55w because that's what the XX uses for stock bulbs. I went with 4500K because it was the best improvement over stock bulbs.
The light temperature is more one of aesthetics, and while I don't know the value of 3000K, the site I found said that 4300K was 3X brighter than stock and the color was very close to standard headlights; with yellow light being reflected off the road (important as it's part of what you need to see distance effectively). Since 4500K was the closest, I went with that. This range was recommended for off-road use because it was for maximum visibility.
The higher temps do more shifting into the blue and violet range, but while you initially retain 3X the brightness, you eventually go to only 2X the brightness, and all you're gaining is the "bluish" look of HID systems. At that point, you're doing it more for cosmetics than anything else.
Good choice. DDM's 4500 is tested to be a true 4300 from what I understand. I have an old set of McCulloch on the XX, 4300 low, 5k high. The low beam at 4300 is far better at night than the 5k high and it is by far the best color.
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Thought I throw this out there in case anyone else was in the market for some HIDs. $24.95 for the single 35 watt kits, $32.45 for the 55 watt kits. That's a smoking deal for HIDs.
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I have an M3 front and Z6 rear combo on the XX at the moment. M3 is a great and super sticky tire.
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i can't wait to get it here, thanks Justin
You will enjoy it!
Sure as hell sounds like a great deal to me.. enjoy it
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Terminology issues here. What's commonly referred to here as a "CCT" is actually the cam chain tensioner lifter.
3.5-4 hours to change the actual cam chain tensioner is in the ballpark.
AH correct you are
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ok
lemme know when you want to get er done.
Hey Wade, if you are in a pinch and need one really quickly you can take the one off my bike, as it's not in use ATM (needs a fork overhaul).. and just give me the one when your order arrives. Only has a few thousand miles on it, got it from John. Let me know.
Is it hard to change the CCT? I am getting conflicting reports. The dealer says 3.5-4 hours labor.
haha.. it's a 5 minute job.. don't need to take any plastic off even, just take out two screws, remove the old, put in the two screws and then pull out the little tab that holds to spring wound up in the new CCT.
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That's a great deal though, could part it out or use it as a parts bike
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There are a couple of reasons I don't like gravity feed.
First, I don't like manual valves, because they can get bumped, accidentally left on, and they are bulky. Plus the lines to and from the valve are exposed to damage, and the valve itself has to be mounted somewhere where it's accessible while driving. It doesn't seem like it's something I can do and make it look really sexy.
Second, if I only tee into the return line than this setup can be 100% removed some day with no evidence. If I do ever sell the bike someday, I don't want to have to explain extra holes and brackets and stuff, I just want to bring it back to exactly stock.
Besides, I'm an electrical engineer, so I really want to put some cool wiring farkles on it somewhere.
So, back to the original question: can I tee into the fuel return line and pump gas into there without causing problems?
Heh, just asking..
And yes, you can tee right into the return line without any problems. Post up some pics of your finished product. I'm curious to see the final result. You have some good points above.
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Most of the setups I've seen just had a fuel line running from Aux tank to main tank. Open the valve and it fills the main tank, of course these were mounted on passenger seat.
Yeah, that's the most common and the setup I use (gravity fed). I have the tank on the rear Givi rack with a valve, which dumps into a 3/8 that goes into a bulkhead I added to the bottom of the stock stank. Along the way there is a quick-disconnect to make tank removal easy.
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I was thinking that I want to pump from my aux tank to my main tank. I have a few different styles of small form factor, high pressure (fuel injection) car fuel pumps that I have been collecting for this project. What I'm hoping is that I can find a pump that doesn't allow the back-pressure of the return line to go backwards into the aux tank, and also have a low enough pump volume that it won't effect the bike while it's running. I had a setup kinda like this on my Magna and it worked really well.
It sounds a little overly complicated, but I like it because I can hook the fuel pump switch to a ignition-controlled power source and nobody can mess with it. On my Magna I mounted the fuel pump under the seat towards the back, and it looks like there is room back there on a Bird too.
There is plenty of room under the seat for a fuel pump. If you want to go that way what is usually done is adding a tee to the return fuel line and filling the tank from the aux. Can I ask what your aversion is to using the gravity fed method and adding a bulkhead to the main tank?
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I want to add an external auxillary fuel cell to my '99 Bird. I don't want to modify the fuel tank at all to accept fuel from an ouside source. Can I tee into the fuel injection return line between the fuel pressure regulator and the tank? How much back pressure and flow is there during normal operation? Would it cause problems if my system added additional back pressure to the tank side of the FPR?
I believe if you have fuel injection you need to add a fuel pump if you want to tee into the fuel line. I know you said you did not want to modify your main tank, but that really is the best way to do it. Using the gravity fed method has the least working parts and is the most reliable. That's the way the aux fuel setup is on mine and it works like a charm. Check out this site, it has a lot of good information on setting up aux fuel systems.
http://www.sampson-sporttouring.com/
If you do decide to go with a gravity fed system, make sure you use a uni-bit to drill the tank, and add a quick connect close to the tank so it's easy to r&r the tank in the future.
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Absolutely.Thinner air----> less aero drag-----> better fuel consumption.I typically get 10-15% better fuel consumption in CO.
As far as loss of top speed,it is not as much noticeable as loss of acceleration because thinner air offers less aero drag.But the bike still weights the same.
Typically airplanes are faster at higher altitude,up to the point.
Ahh, good point, did not consider that. So less air friction offsets the loss of power...
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Divide whatever number you have as a max HP number buy 1.235 for a 5500 feet elevation correction factor.
Basically at your altitude you have a 20% loss in power.... so if you bike was putting out a correted 180 HP, you're really only making about 145 HP.
Now if you think that's bad....
At 12,000 feet your mighty 180 HP at sea level would be reduces to a floppy 114 HP, basically a 37% loss in power.
Yeah, I knew it was something along those lines.. funny thing is when I first rode the XX out here from NY I really didn't "feel" a huge difference. Just goes to show you how rarely one actually uses every bit of HP a bike has. I even got the XX up to 178 indicated on highway 125 up by Walden once, and that's like 8000 ft. Surprised with that much power loss to get moving that fast (and yes, I'm aware that the actual speed was nowhere near the indicated).
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Is there a general rule of thumb for power loss (HP/Torque) based on altitude? My Busa was dyno'd in Denver (5500 FT), just curious about how much that would translate to at sea level. Not that it's a power monster, stock except PC3, Yosh TRC pipes and BMC filter, just curious.
Most dynos will correct for altitude, temp, humidity. Don't know the formula, but whenever you see "corrected" horsepower in an article/review, that's what they're talking about. A google search would probably get you the math, though I doubt it'll be as simple as a rule of thumb type thing.
Thanks, I think I figured it out. First readout on the slip is the "actual", second is the "corrected" if I am not mistaken.
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Is there a general rule of thumb for power loss (HP/Torque) based on altitude? My Busa was dyno'd in Denver (5500 FT), just curious about how much that would translate to at sea level. Not that it's a power monster, stock except PC3, Yosh TRC pipes and BMC filter, just curious.
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Very nice example of a redbird
.. good luck with the sale.
New rider with chain questions
in The Garage
Posted
another +1 for the EK ZZZ .. also very popular with the Busa crowd.