[Instant chain stretch?]

The 8 mm rear axle adjusting bolt's threaded shaft size is more equivalent to a standard 12 mm bolt, such as the 16 ft-lb torque pinch bolts used on the front axle. The 8 mm hex head size along with the enlarged ring inside the adjuster, is to accommodate it's installation into the adjuster bracket, allowing the snap ring to do the job the head would on a standard 12 mm bolt. The interior enlarged ring is what would take the "snugging" pressure being discussed here.

same again - the pinch bolts are there to collapse the material of the lower fork leg around the axle. It is the friction between the fork leg hole and the axle that stops the axle backing out. And in general, snap rings to not take thrust loads very kindly - that's why we have special static and dynamic thrust bearings.

[Instant chain stretch?]

fuck, pressed back and lost the reply. Short answer:

1. plates inside swingarm stop swingarm rails being crushed when you torque the axle nut. Friction between these plates and the rails is what stops the axle and wheel moving.

2. if you can turn the axle when torqued to the correct value, you have inadvisedly greased every adjuster plate, washer and rail face from not to nut or more likely, your torque wrench is borked or your have stripped the nut (do you still have the vibration resistant washer in the nut btw, or a split pin for castle nuts?)

3. The wheel bearings require preload, and this is mostly what the high torque is for. Under maximum lateral load (when you barrel into a corner) the inside bearing should not go sleck or unloaded meaning that only the outer bearing is taking the load. There is some hard to understand force physics here, but if you apply a (pre)load on a bearing in one direction and then put a load on it in the other direction, as it 'unloads' it is taking part of the force applied to it. This is what happens to the inside bearing on your wheel. If you overtorque the axle, you can put flat spots on the balls (called brinelling) that destroys the case hardening and fooks em really quickly.

Radial preload comes from the factory, and is the reason the two races of the bearing don't slop about around the balls/rollers if you turn em by hand.

4. The adjuster plates are thing, square edged pieces of poor quality material that are only there to allow unloaded relative adjustment of the two blocks within the swingarm rails. If all load were taken on these, the 8mm bolt would NOT fail first - the adjuster plates would straighten out and then the little snap ring would fail. For those of you thinking that playing with these fixes the problem, you are either very very close to the correct load on the axle, but not quite, or you are realising a placebo effect.

Please note that when you put this stuff together, the torques are given for dry threads, and the axles should not be greased (too much) i put a trace on it to inhibit corrosion, but the axle should not be allowed to spin in the bearings inside race - the bearing is there to take this load, not the axle/brg interface. Axle is soft, bearing is hardened - take a guess as to what happens?

[electronic add on's]

find yourself a relay and trigger it using the ignition. For mine however, it mounted the relay around the existing ones (battery) and triggered it from the tail-light (check you get the right one - brake light triggers could be fun)

Powered my heated grips, battery meters etc - simple and robust.

[Finally......after nine years of production....]

"Umm, no, you can buy it new, but domestic makers voluntarily "restrict" the bikes to output no more than 100 ps or so (they did that to keep the laws from prohibiting the manufacture/sale of bikes w/more than 100 ps). "

ok, but the point remains that a bird with 100 ponies is not actually a bird

[Finally......after nine years of production....]

The XX has a recall for only certain serial numbers in the model years '02 and '03. I've heard on another board it effects less than 100 XX's, but that's not documented. :oops:

Joe, the Honda Japan website has the following data:

SC35-1000583～SC35-1000789 (207 units) are affected by the recall.

I have NO idea if those numbers are restricted to the JP market, or include units for non-Japan markets, and the information is limited.

They were apparently produced during the Mar. 7 2002 - to - Aug. 28 2003 period.

I was under the impression that japanese law stated that they are not allowed to sell >750cc bikes from new, domestically. I think there are companies who send crates of bikes for a tour of a harbour outside national boundaries and then bring em back for sale

[I installed lower pegs on my XX tonight]

cheers demon - i got a slightly different problem that can be solved by raising the pegs - a new one piece with knee protectors so big i can't fit behind the fairing anymore. Sliders are ok, they poke out the side, but dainese put these sewn-in pads that run up the shins to the knee and it's a bit of a tight squeeze!

[I installed lower pegs on my XX tonight]

Comfy looking setup. If you ever want to switch back to stock pegs, all you would have to do is drill them out to fit the pin dia. if you have enough meat on them to hold sufficiently. I went the other way with mine. I'm back about an inch and about two inches higher. My tires will be off the ground and the cases will be dragging before I touch a peg down.

did you use the buell pegs upsidedown, or something else. Gotta pic by any chance?