bonox
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Posts posted by bonox
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gasket and news bolts+washers comes with the kit, just no 'stopper tool'
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Thanks guys
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is the stopper tool required to remove the old cct?
the old kwaka i had wouldn't mind if you held the thing in with your hand while undoing the bolts - possibly a bit of a weak spring on a less than 1000cc bike though.
is there a substitute for the stopper tool listed in the manual?
ie can you use a thin screwdriver?, or be quite rough in filing up a 'tool' out of some sheetmetal?
PS, the new CCT comes with a little piece of metal in the seal bolt hole at the top - i take it this is not a stopper tool that can be removed and used on the old one? Giving it a little pull sounds lile all hell will break loose inside if the thing is not installed when the 'pin' comes out.
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sorry mate - the question sounded very much like "what is the difference between an apple and an orange".
The answer is very well spelt out in gods website.
I use both, however the monokeys are very useful if you normally use two bags for example, and just want to throw a single one on the top rack for a little outing.
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at any rate, it's all described on the givi site
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bosch, narva etc plus 50's?
or what ever substitute you have where you are.
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does this 2 green dot model have a different part number, or do you ask for it by name?
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you got it.
If you had the sag adjsuted correctly before, the shim just raises the rear to sharpen steering a little and give some more ground clearance.
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the third is on the left side, buried deep above the water pump
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it's either normal or your balance shafts may have moved a little.
the way i adjust mine, i get more vibration at about 3000 and then up around 7000 - keep in mind everything is relative, and the bird is still HEAPS better than my zx9
alternatively, go through the whole bike - check throttle body synch, chain and sprockets, balance shafts etc.
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you could try this mess of shit like me
or have a look at warchilds fjr pages for some great full page pics and part numbers descriptions of different fused power installs by many different people
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you can do it if you mount something heavy either side of the plastic - big formed sheets of 40/63 thou aluminium for example. Because of the flexibility of the lower cowling, and the fact you can probably only get fastener access between the ram air ducts, you will need to reinforce the area substantially if you don't want them to move around. The plastic is probably strong enough to mount a set of lights that will fit without hitting the wheel guard, but they will vibrate.
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Once runing, the meter showed 12.5V and dropped when brake applied. No changes when I reved the engine, nor change in the brightness of the headlight (which shined bright BTW - those HID's are very sensitive to voltage !)
really? Most switch mode power supplies are famously INsensitive to changes in supply voltage. Mine don't do anything different down to 10.5 Volts - and i've only ever seen that once when I emergency braked for some wildlife with all the electrics going. Getting back up to speed again and no change in headlight characteristics.
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just something a litttle independant of the above post, items that are not in general use, ie
indicators, brake lights, horn (stock or magnum etc) etc
aren't worth counting in your total - and you are unlikely to be using a pair of 110w fogs in urban conditions either where you'll be pulling a low engine speed. The battery will make up for any shortfall the stator can't provide and the stator will not be overloaded for long. (hopefully).
little farkles like mobile phones, radar units and gps things generally ar enot worth worrying about in your total because you could run all three for less than 10watts. ymmv, but check what they require. Many will say they draw 3 amps etc, but this is a worst case full load or startup condition - look for the average draw.
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there's a whole swag of stuff involved in it, but I generally regard the bike as needing about 200watts to run before you start adding accessories.
55 low beam
10 watt taillights (5Wx2. brake is inly intermittent)
fuel pump ~50 watts if filter not blocked
ecu 25W
injectors 25W
instruments etc 5W
is about 170W
Not sure about you lot, but I can't run more than a pair of 55W each driving lights on top of everything else (both headlights, cruise control, heated grips) at less than 4000rpm and keep voltage above 13V, meaning a happy not overloaded stator. (max output is 5000rpm but you only get another 30 or so watts from 4000rpm).
HID automotive uses a 35W lamp, but ballast generally draws about 7w, so you are looking at about 42w for each HID lamp you are burning. (ie saving of 13w per standard halogen lamp)
The best advice I can give you if you plan to use this much stuff is to do what I and all the other LD freaks do - get yourself a voltmeter and keep an eye on it.
Voltages below 12 don't matter for HID - they'll still keep giving out the same number of lumens until it all falls over at about 9V. Standard halogen on the other hand has a very sharp fall off below12.5-13V according to danielsternlighting.com, meaning that there is not much point lighting up all of your christmas tree if you are not actually able to give them enough juice (ie you are probably better off using 55W lamps in the fog/driving lamps instead of 100+ lamps.
My 2c here is that your are better off running good quality freeform reflector lamps (unless you have HID driving lamps) with plus30, plus50 etc premium 55watters instead of 110w lamps.
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sounds like msf time again.
mind you, given the post, if there is nothing wrong with the left hand, there certainly is with the right.
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Cheers for the quick reply
:shock: Well it just seemed strange....
Next thing is brighter bulbs! Can't see a damn thing!
http://www.cbr1100xxforums.org/forum/viewt...pic.php?t=23738
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the lamps take a little while to warm up - you get a brief pop flash, then they are dim with building brightness to maximum in a few seconds. (Automotive ballast/igniter assemblies use much higher arc strike voltages than general HID units like mercury vapour so they don't take 15minutes to warm up and you can also hot start them unlike general units)
When hot (ie if you turn off high beam for passing traffic) they warm up very quickly but still give a little pop flash, which, although not particularly good for the life of the unit, will give you a brief period of high vis, just like flashing ordinary highs.
Personally, I have mine wired direct to the battery with relay triggers and don't notice any flicker at all, and I use my driving lights as high beam flashers instead of the HID high.
The '97 birds also have a 390W alternator; the EFI birds have a 460W. Should mean an equivalent level of available extra amps for accesories though, as the fuel pump and injectors reputedly draw about 75watts or more together.
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looks good mate - don't suppose you could get me a pic down from the top with the instruments in place?
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(taken from one of my posts on ozblackbird.net. I have HID low and high beams, but I use a pair of Narva driving lights to fill in the holes left by the main beam cutoff once you barrel into a corner. They are very yellow in contrast to the mains, and it takes a little getting used to, but an HID pair of the same would be quite extraordinary I think.)
sorry for out of focus - damn camera only focuses on contrast and there is too much of the wrong contrast here! Mounted pointing outwards and upwards, so when you bank into a corner they stop illuminating the possums and koalas in the trees and let you see through the corner.
Switchgear on left bar controls each HID and the spots. Means I can leave main beam off while starting to avoid a load cycle each time, and can run either or both main high and spots. Rocker switch is an auxilliary override for the cruise acc/res functions, and is much easier to get to than the current pad location. I need a better mount for everything (although the clamp works well it's a little hick. Anyone got an idea?
The voltmeter is also a useful addition when running heaps of gear. Perhaps I should have bought the bmw after all! (hmmm, 850 watt alternator - *drool*)
One relay mounted under front screen controls the driving lights, two more under tail control direct feed to each of the HID ballasts. Quick scan with a 'scope reveals they draw 15amps for about 4 seconds on hot startup - a bit less on cold start. 10 amp fuses should be ok (seeing as they'll take 15 amps for a couple of minutes before burning) and 8ga wire everywhere!
In practise, they do this, meaning you can see through corners when you are in them.
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It's normal if you've raised up the rear of the bike. A lot of people will put something other than the stock rubber thingy to space the centerstand down a little bit. A rubber vacuum hose cap works wonders on a bolt when you get the right length bolt.
would this not defeat the purpose of raising the rear by allowing the stand to scrape earlier?
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Hi Helvet
Stock rubber still there, stock cans, raised height with ring on shock and i checked slack on race stand with a fat bloke sitting on it to straighten the swingarm.
It doesn't rub when i have my weight on it, but i was interested to know if anyone else had the problem. Thanks for the 'all is normal' comment.
It probably doesn't help that i'm more than likely to be a little lighter than you lot, at about 80kg fully dressed.
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the chain has the correct slack for though - shouldn't matter if it is shagged or not - i'm not moving. No rust colour on the wheel, and correctly adjusted i'm barely into the green on the swingarm marks with an oem chain and sprockets. I'm just confused!
removing cam chain tensioner CCT
in The Garage
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it's all done.
perhaps i should have said - comes with no spare stopper tool to lock the old one before removing without having to pull the one from the new unit