Obby

This is his first bike . Get gear!

Yep.

Welcome. Do's and dont's :icon_think: . Stay away from 7.5k RPM and up. Dddddd.... annnnn....gerous! On the serious side... what country do you live in? We can't get the '05's here in the states. Very cool pick on that. Also, what other bikes have you ridden before? ....more to come.

Page 5-12 in the manual says... Stays Lit (bike no starty): Open or short circuit at the input power line of the ECM Faulty engine stop relay Faulty engine stop switch Faulty ignition switch Faulty bank angle senseo Faulty ECM Blow main fuse B (30A) Blown engine stop fuse (10A) Blown fuel pump fuse (30A) Open circuit in engine stop switch ground wire. Engine stop switch in Off position. ---------------------------------------- Personally, I would start with the fuses and kill switch. my 2 cents.

This one's already been covered recently... http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...topic=30217&hl=

If you find out, let me know. I'm hearing all kinds of stories as I'm reseaching the power commanders.

+1 on the petcock plumbing. There is a "nipple" on the petcock under the tank that isn't actually a nipple, if you hook your vacum line up to it bikey no worky. It's a very common mistake. Do a search in Garage section. There is a recent thread explaining it with pics and diagrams. Petcock on an FI bike??? . Pretty sure that problem was only on the carbed birds. Anyways, what is your FI light doing? Blinking or staying On?

Personally, I use Astroglide on just about everthing... Comes in larger bottles too...

BUMP! and another word on this. I will be trying the PowerCommander III USB soon. Can't believe how much more power my '97 that was jetted and tuned, had over the '01 (even with pipes). Since nobody is certain, here or DynoJet, knows if it will work on a '01 US Cali bird or not (known to work on EURO Models), I don't have a choice but to "buy and try". The work will be done at a professional motorcycle race shop that was recommended to me. Wish me luck! Looking for my 150hp again. -Obby

I just wanted to give a quick update on this thread. Many of you were right, go figure . I recently spoke to the previous owner of my '97 XX. He has had recommended that I swap the forks as mentioned here. Primarily due to the extensive and expensive work that he said was done to them. I will take his word, IMHO, he is a stand up motocyclist for many years and has done many, many mod's over the years to all his armada of race and sports bikes. He said that the front forks were modded with more than the standard GOLD KIT and Valving that I thought was done. The forks were, in layman's term, completley rebuilt and tuned for him (6'2 120lbs as me). His weight and height are very close to my own. So in his opinion, I am a good fit for the current front and rear suspension as-is (recommending changing the oil in the front and checking for leaks frront and rear of course). This in mind, I will be swapping the suspension, front and rear, and having them powdercoated or re-polished as neccessary (hopefully before the TBME Meet!). Thanks again for all your posts. I have a wrench, but hate to use it if not needed (IT'S NEEDED!). -Obby

Hate to to this, but... :icon_needpics: and sound in a vid if you have it!

There is not... I just used the regular AFAM one... Mike After reading 5 or more years of these posts... I don't believe that there is, only a 16T, wheelie dampening sproket is available that has the exact fit. If you find one, let me know. I would love to have one too. Can I hear GROUP BUY on that? -Obby

Do what I've done on my '97 and going to do on my '01... change the gearing. Lower rpm's are much easier on the ears. At what RPM does the exhaust bother you? Mine was 4k.

ACR = Rebound and compression adjustable (it's in the Legend on the sheet) REB? Not sure, didn't see it in the Legend. In any case, their prices went up a bit in the past 10 years or when mine was done . The previous owner had it custom made for about 500 bucks. If memory serves, he said they kept his '97 bird for a couple of week while they made the shock (not a rebuild though, i was given the stocker with the bike). That's all I can say is it was night and day from the stocker that I have on my '01 now. I'm sure most of the aftermarket shocks would be great though. Mine has the remote reservoir for the dampening. I find that very handy for quick adjustments. -Obby

I have the same problem with my stocker rear shock. If you really want to try a 'fairly new' stocker, put up a WTB stocker post in the Sale Section. I just sold one of mine. They go for usually $80, but you may find someone here to cut you a little slack on one. Personally, I would recommend replacing it all together. I have a 'Works' rear shock on my other bird. It has a remote dampener and is perfect for bad road, or a quick twist of the dampener, and perfect for the twisties. I think the Works is a great product too (and not too expensive). You may have to give them a call, not sure they list the XX on their site. My 2 cents. WorkPerformance. Application Guide: Guide

Thanks everyone. Alot of good options offered here. As for cranking down the preload. Is that right? Compress the spring more? It's kicking back on bumps as it is. When I sit on it, it doesn't drop alot, about the same as my '97, maybe 2 inches. Giving it more preload keeps in it's working range. IIRC 35 mm should be your sag in the rear. If you're at 2" you have way too much sag and your compressing the shock too much. Shortening it's effective range of motion. Just kidding, I think I'm following ya. This is just one course of action I'm thinking about. I'm also going to check with Works and Racetech to see what should be done IF I decide to try a swap (especially Racetech as I'm not sure how much work was done - bought it that way). PS... and just FYI folks. The suspension is night a day when modified correctly. That and the HID were my two best mods.

Thanks everyone. Alot of good options offered here. As for cranking down the preload. Is that right? Compress the spring more? It's kicking back on bumps as it is. When I sit on it, it doesn't drop alot, about the same as my '97, maybe 2 inches.

I rather like this look... Bling!

I've been in email correspondence with the tech support sales manager at Dynojet/Powercommander.com. After some checking, he said that the Power Commander III USB model #113-411 will work on '01-'06 Blackbirds. Anybody here know that to be accurate? I read many threads here that only the PCII will work on the '98-'01's. 113-411 Thanks in advace, Obby

Mick is active on the "BIRD" site that Jaws runs. Go to their site and send him a PM and maybe I can bring them back with me since he is always at the BASH each year. John, It's been a while since I've vistied that site... Linky? Ps... what's Mick's member name over there? EDIT: Nevermind... I think I found it off of JAWS's site. http://www.bikersoracle.com/blackbird/forum/

I weight 222lbs. I set the dampener to the S (soft) position. That's all for now. Do I need to pull it out and adjust the spring preload? I think it's in the stock setting as it is.

I had my custom one's made from Mickcbr1100 (i think that was his member name). He lived across the pond and made just a few set a year. They were of great qualityand design. I wish he was still around, need another set myself :icon_pray: .

Good point taken :icon_think:

I'm getting 37mpg on my '01 bird. I plan to drop a tooth or two in the rear to help that out though. It worked for my '97.

True, I know that, but what makes me hesitae is that the '97's suspension has probably 40k or her. Is it really worth all the wrenching and downtime to do that work? You guys let me know. One other thing, the '01 bird is cherry. Do I really want to put dinged up front forks and rear spring on this bike? Thanks in advance for the advice :icon_think: . -Obby Ps. I hope I explained that right.