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Helvet

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Posts posted by Helvet

  1. If you wanna discuss price shoot me as pm, I will consider offers that are realistic and reasonable considering as I have stated these are pretty much non existent to find new

    True, but just because they've changed them to a newer model.

    This model has a problem when mounted in the low positions. If you put the bike in gear the lever will touch the sidestand and shut of the engine. I almost crashed when that happened.......

    I had to alter the gear-lever to get a working position without a cut-off.

  2. Any year of wheel will fit as long as you have the proper rotors.

    Black rotors - carb'd 97-98

    Gold rotors - FI 99-up

    I would bet they meant 97-98

    You also need the correct axel and spacers to make it work.....

  3. I'm not trying to be a prick, I just don't think that a hundred bucks its much of a savings. And besides, it looks like it has had a fair amount of use in the seat area. And it doesn't matter how many post I have made, my opinion would still be the same. I mean the whole point of this site is to share information with each other about our birds, if we have something to sell. We offer it to our fellow bird riders for a fair price. If you want damn near new prices for a used parts then put in on flea-bay.

    Don't be an a-hole. If you aren't interested don't buy it. Crapping on someones for sale post is generally in poor taste.

    Besides whats his name from Holland will be along any minute to buy this thing.

    No I am not.......... :icon_naughty:

    "Whats His Name" !!! I like it !

    I have a special name for him, myself, but we don't need to go there.

    If you insist in being an asshole you may.........

    Speaking for myself: I am getting fed-up with your "smart" remarks. Everytime somebody refers to me you have to let people know we've had a problem.

    Grow up, and stop behaving like a little boy.

  4. That is good to hear. As the Bird gets older it will be harder to find aftermarket parts for it.

    I disagree!

    I've found that here in Europe it's still a very wanted model, and most aftermarket products are also made for the Bird. The last year I've added over a hundred products to my shop.......

    But, on topic: I am happy that C.A. is trying to improve. The service and reliablity was poorly the last year......

  5. Also it could very well be the starter-motor.

    I've had a customer with the same problem. When the bike was hot the startermotor jammed, and would not turn. The lights went out due to overload in the electrical system, and nothing happened. It was easy to push-start the engine, even though it was an injected bike (there was enough juice in the battery left for the fuel pump and ECU).

    After replacing the starter motor everything was OK.

    His battery died a few weeks later, probably because of the beating it had taken with all the effort it had to make to start the bike before.

  6. Jetsetter...my waning memory tells me that you are in some godawful part of the world, and you've had trouble figuring out where your bike came from in previous situations. I'll tell you that Japanese bikes and some European as well as African bikes were restricted. European/African restrictions are typically in the intake or exhaust manifolds from what I've heard, and the Japanese bikes were restricted by the ECU.

    To make sure that its nothing wrong with your power output, put the bike on the centerstand over a hard surface, and chock the front wheel. Fire it up, run it through the gears, and see if it pulls 300 kph with the tire in the air. If it does, you know there's something limiting the power output, as it doesn't take much power to run the wheel up to that speed. Its either flow restriction or fuel restriction, planned or unplanned. If it doesn't, you'll know that there's something in the electrics that stopping it at that speed...either on purpose, or do to something out of wack. If its running well at your normal speeds, there's nothing mechanical wrong with it. A slipped timing chain or damaged cam that would limit you power output would give you reduced power all through the rpm range, and you'd know it wasn't running right.

    Good posting!

    However, European bikes were also limited by the ECU. Mine was a 100hp version, and I corrected it by using another ECU. Now it's a full version again.... Only the carb.-versions were limited here by air-intake and carb-limiters (manifolds).

    To make it even more confusing: the limited 100hp version would easily run over 240 kph (measured by Garmin).

  7. We are now testing these on a police-bike (yes I have good contacts with th law).

    They are new, not expensive, and are easy to install. The sensors only weigh 12 grams each....

    I can't deeplink, but this is the site: http://www.atrium-enterprises.eu/home_gb.html

    Go to: PRODUCTS - AUTOMOTIVE - TIRE PRESSURE SYSTEMS - MOTORBIKE

    We are now testing these on a police-bike (yes I have good contacts with th law).

    They are new, not expensive, and are easy to install. The sensors only weigh 12 grams each....

    I can't deeplink, but this is the site: http://www.atrium-enterprises.eu/home_gb.html

    Go to: PRODUCTS - AUTOMOTIVE - TIRE PRESSURE SYSTEMS - MOTORBIKE

    Here in Europe it costs about 130 Euro's, so I guess (since these things are usually cheaper in the USA) you'll pay about USD 100.

  8. I love the Qualifiers for handling and grip, but the mileage for touring duty is terrible. I have a rear Roadsmart that I paired with a Qualifier front and it seemed to work very well for cornering and mileage, but I've only put about 600 miles on it. It's a little early to make a solid recommendation. I swapped it for a Qualifier when I went to a track day in September. The Roadsmart will be back on for touring duty this Spring and we'll see then how good it is.

    The new Qualifier 2 will be introduced here in Holland in March. I don't know when the'll launch in the USA.....

    It has improved dureability, and will heat up faster......

    The Roadsmart will suit most of the streetriding, but does lack some grip for very fast track-riding. In reality Dunlop combined in this set a sports front-tire and a dual compound sport/tourer rear tire.

  9. I heard the PR2's fall more into left hand turns than right ones in Europe. Is that true? :)

    j/k, NBL Helvet.

    Could be very true..... After all we are much more left-wing orientated than you guys in the USA..... :icon_rolleyes:

    But I'll give you credit for choosing Obama.....

    I have no clue what j/k or NBL means...... :icon_redface:

  10. Road surfaces are completely different in Europe as compared to the States.

    Don't even think that you will get the same wear results here in the States as you get in Europe.

    The Michelin's don't seem to hold up or last in Europe anywhere near as well as they do here in the States.

    I personally like the Pilot Road 2's the best but that is just me.

    I put on a new pair of PR2's in preparation for RacerXX

    I agree about the wear. But I don't really know how to compair grip and handling, because I've never riden in the USA........

  11. I will be needing some new rubber in a 1,000 miles or so. Been looking at alot of dual compound tires as a replacement.

    In my search I have noticed 2 things

    There is old school dual compound Dunlops Roadsmart, and new dual compounds like the Pilot Power 2CT. I am looking for the newer dual compounds tires and was curious of what tires people have tried on the XX?

    I need something that wears like steel in the center and grips good for the twisties. I liked the Avons ST's for wear as a day to the mountains involved 125 mile trip to get started. However I quickly learned they don't like the pressure I put on them in the twisites. Went to M3's and while they were OK for wear (3,000 miles until done) they would break loose causing me to loose faith in them quickly..

    any info would be great

    Dave

    Where do you get your information from? The Dunlops are actually newer than the Michelins, and they perform a whole lot better on our bikes.....

    I have a motorcycle-tire shop and I've mounted hundreds of tires on Blackbirds. All riders who tried both agree that the Dunlop is the better tire for a Blackbird.....

  12. Doesn't take me too long to figure out what NOT to buy, so Michelin Pilot Road 2s are going on next time.

    I make my living with my own motorcycle-tireshop near Amsterdam (the Netherlands).

    I suggest you try the new Dunlop Roadsmart instead of the Michelin. Yes, the MPR2 is great, and probably the best in the rain, but the Roadsmart is a better tire for heavy bikes like ours. It is much more stabile and predictable, and the bike steers completely neutral. The PR2 will (when pushed) make the bike move like the tirepressure is a little too low, and it has the urge to fall into corners.

    The difference is not huge, buth tires are excellent, but I (and most other BB-riders here in Holland who tried both) do prefer the Roadsmart.

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