Helvet
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Posts posted by Helvet
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It seems people in UK like that. I've seen it few times, and this guy has them in every opening......
If that is the case, I think he has a big problem taking a crap..... :roll:
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I got the Hyperpro springs. They are a little bit longer than the stock springs and are slightly compressed when the caps are screwed in. They are also progressive rate springs. I get 27mm of sag with me and all my bags on it-I weigh 200lbs with gear on. There is 29mm of sag with two people [ 370lb for both with gear on] and all our crap on.
No spacers needed and I like the fact that they have a higher spring rate near the bottom of travel.
I got my Hyperpro springs installed by the factory. Mine was the testbike for the XX-riders to test on our summer-meeting 2003. I have had 30 people trying the springs, and 28 bought them. If you want to improve even more, try using a 6mm spacer on top of the rear shock (NOT the spring), and drop the front about 30mm. Just let the forks stick out 30mm more than standard. This was the bike leans more to the front, and it will turn more easily, without compromising stability. Even fully loaded the bike is a lot better, and in my opinion the best purchase to be made on the bird ever. I would not know any improvement possible that will have such a dramatic positive efeect on the standard bike!
How much did you pay for the set?
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A fellow XX-owner here in Holland, replaced his Ohlins last year for a cheaper WP-set. This made a huge improvement!
The WP is much more stabile, and does cope better with short/fast bumps. Also is is easier to adjust and a lot cheaper here (but that could be because it is a Dutch company). A lot of the GP and Superbike riders use the WP too (previously known as White Power, but they abandoned this name for obvious seasons).
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I would assume hat the 97-98 intake grills create some nasty turbulence and probably slow the airflow quite a bit.
Yes they do.... We had a guy here in Holland who tried it, and at higher speeds the difference was very noticable!
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Glad to see you chose for a Dutch quality product!
I know someone in the Dutch BOC who has the same setup.
If you check on our site: http://forum.superblackbird.info/
You can contact him for some info. Send him a PM, his name is MarcelCBRXX. His bike was installed by the WP-factory technicians, and set up as a test bike. He made pictures: http://members.lycos.nl/marcelcbrxx/wp_suspension.htm
I hope this gives you the info you need.
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There is a solution, posted elsewhere on this Forum.
Check out: http://www.sublimedirectory.com/mow.wmv (NWS)
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yes 2002 or newer...mine are 2002...you may need to cut off the little stop nubs on the cylinders...I was lucky and didnt have to...but if i want any more adjustment out of the levers I will need to...aside from that everything is working for me a year later...good luck!
Please note, that if you do so, be carefull to loosen the bolt just enough to turn the lines. If you loosen it too much, you will get air into the system, and you need to replace all the brake/clutch fluids. I know I did :oops: .
Also check the gascables. It is possible that when making a full turn, you will stretch the lines, and increase the RPM's. This can come as quite a surprise....
There is a notch (is that the correct word?) at the front of the gastank holding these cables. If you re-route the cables outside of the forklegs (instead of inside), and take the cables out of the notch, you will have plenty room.
I did not use the VFR-bars, but I bought Vario-Bars. They are a little higher and fully adjustable in all directions. Maybe you don't need to do this on the VFR-bars, but I just wanted to report this....
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I did mean the Fork. It is no issue here at all.... I don't even hear any stories or complaints here, but I know it can be improved....
Do you have any links for me to read?
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So, do you guys have more info on the valve-replacement in the shocks? As far as I know nobody in Holland ever did this, and probably neither in England or Germany. I can't find any info on any of the European boards. Do you think it is only worth wile in case of a heavier rider? I am myself a slim-built person, and I have no more complaints after replacing the springs and (thinner) oil.
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Here in Holland, most of the XX-'s have changed the springs (and oil), or even the complete shock.
Most of them chose Hyperpro, because it is the only manufacturer who uses a fully progressive spring (the angle of the spring changes every single winding, and not in 2 or 3 steps). This gives a comfortable ride when driving normally, and a sporty ride at high speeds. In our opinion it is the best investment you can make, to get the bike handling better.
If I did not try it, I would not have believed it, but with these alterations you can do some corners about 50% faster!
It also will improve the maximum angle of inclination greately. Because the end of the spring is considerabely stronger, the bike will not compress the spring as much in the corners as the original. Also it is possible to lower the front, and heighten the rear. This makes lighter steering....
If you want more info, just ask or PM....
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I have the stop-light in the top-case. It is very well visible, but after 4 years one of the LED's gave up on me, and can't be replaced. Also, there is a special connector available for the top-box mounted in the mountingplate, but you must buy it with the case! It does not come separately. If you buy it later on, you must drill a hole in the case, and use loose wires. Not very pretty, and everytime you have to connect it again....
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I lubricate the chain very well, and I managed 48.000km (over 30.000 miles with it). In total I think I adjusted the chain about 5 or 6 times...
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What is the link for shortening the stock signal-lights? I can't find it.... (yes, I know I am blond and Dutch, go figure....)
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Here is a pic of what I have right now....still mroe to come like my rearsets and all....everything that isnt gold will be chromed this winter, like my brake calipers and little odds and ends.
I like Rickrad's Idea of a darker Silver....not as dark as the titanium bird but darker then the silver one....Bah I have all winter to make up my mind
http://public.fotki.com/johnhenley/mecaniq...ique/parts.html
It's coming along nicely. Must be great to see the result happening after the horrific first pics.....
For the rearsets, and possibly the clip-ons, look at: www.gillestooling.com
This will look nice in combination with the other gold products. I use them and I love them!
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Do these actually extend chain life or just reduce maintenance?
That is the same thing (in this case). If you are a dedicated sprayer like me, you can do over 35.000 miles with the original chain and sprockets. I have a fast riding-style, but I don't do wheelies.......
I spray every 300-400 miles, in the wet more often......
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Well my bike is fine now. It just worries me I had to find the problem cause for myself.... My mechanic, nor Honda could find it....
The other bike I was talking about is still a problem. It boils over even driving at low speeds.....
Honda has used a new pomp, wiring, fan, radiator, radiator-cap, thermostat, temperature sensor, and all other things you can think of. It is not a blown gasket, not an electrical problem....
They don't know, and neither do we......
The owner is thinking about selling the bike now, and it is just 4 months old! (It was his third Blackbird...).
I say, Honda should replace the bike with a new one, but I doubt they will....
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Check out VarioBar by Gilles Tooling. They will fit, and no modifications needed at all! I use them and love them!
www.gillestooling.com
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How much do the Akra slip-ons cost in the USA?I have Akra slip-ons mated to a Jap header system. I thought the Akra welds were beautiful till I saw the Jap welds. On a scale of 10 the Akra welds are a 9, Jap welds a 10+Here in Holland they will be about $ 1000,--
And how much for a full 4 in 2 system? We pay about $ 1400,--
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It could also be a clutch problem. Maybe too many sprints?
Does the noise go down when you use the clutch?
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Here in Holland we had a couple of XX's running hot. So hot, they were boiling over (like mine was).
Couple of possibilities:
1. Malfunctioning thermo-valve (thermostat). This valve does regulate the flow through the cooler. Sometimes it will not open totally, and needs to be replaced.
2. Old cap on the radiator. Radiator can not build up enough pressure, thereby reducing the boilingpoint.
3. Blown head-gasket. Exhaust-fumes (very hot!) will flow into the coolant.
4. Malfunctioning thermal-fan-sensor. This will switch on the fan too late (that's what happened to my bike), or not at all.
5. Unknown.... We have a bike in the shop which is running very hot and boiling over. We changed all parts we could think of, and still it is boiling over. Honda Europe doesn't know either anymore....
Any suggestions?
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I think my Japanese is better than his English..... (and I am Dutch...
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I would like one, if the trouble with the brake lines wasn't there...
How much does it cost, does it work, and is somebody willing to ship it to Holland?
Maybe we can make a trade with some European stuff?
Check out what I am selling: http://forum.superblackbird.info/viewtopic.php?t=1119
RFC: your comments on Ohlins rear shocks?
in The Garage
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Hyperpro will advise you on the recommended adjustments. Contact them at: www.hyperpro.com