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Jaygermeister

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  1. Jaygermeister

    HID ?'s

    On the Gen II busa the HID's have been known to reset the clock from time to time because they pull more amps at start up. The delay is easy to wire up.
  2. My biggest complaint about the XX lights is that they (particularly the low beam) seem to have a very flat "plane" on the bottom. So when you ride windy roads at night the light beam tips up and you can't see squat. Straight line or moderate curves it is great. I use the flash to pass just for that very thing, so I can see through the turn. The HID's should fix th
  3. Ogre over on the Busa forums is doing retrofit HID housing for the Hayabusa, it basically uses a projector for the high and low, instead of just for the high beam. I have HIDs in the stock housing and they are a big improvement. I think the light pattern is better than the XX in most cases, particularly around corners at night. Went HID on the XX about 5 years ago and will never ride without them again! I saw the Ogre thread but not the price. Still think the stock XX light is better than the stock Busa
  4. +1 on the Z6 and now they have the ROADTEC Z6 INTERACT. I loved the Z6's and thougth I would try something new so I went with the Avon Storms, I hated the storms from the 1st 20 feet till the day I took that crap off. Next I tryed the PR2's, I like them ok but not as much as the Z6's but the did last alot longer then the Z6's. Then I bought a Busa with PR2's and from there I went to the Dunlop Roadsmarts. I liked the way they felt but they didn't stick that good and didn't last long but longer than the Z6's. Next I'm going to try the Angels and if that doesn't make me happy I'll try the new Z6 interact.
  5. I'm cleaning up an '85 V-Max now, going to be done in satin black and brushed aluminum. Sweet! The V-Max it just a cool bike all around. GL on the sale of the Wing, one day I'll have one.
  6. Dam, I need a no-mar system
  7. ..... don't leave us hanging!!! What are you getting?
  8. I would have thought every new bike out there would have had a more effective headlight than a 98 Blackbird…… I was wrong. My bike only has the projector on the high beams and it really focuses the light, the problem is you can’t adjust it seperatly from the low beam and it set to high from the factory. The HID really needs a projector to help control and direct the light. As is the HID bulb in an OEM housing set up for H7’s throws lots of light all around. Some guys are doing a “retro fit” with a projector and seperat adjuster to give you better control of the light. Havn’t seen one in person yet. I went with the 6k bulb because the 4-5K seemed to much like natural light and blends in during the day. IMO
  9. Incidentally, Sylvania will replace a burned out bulb up to one year old. All I had to do was fax my receipt. I think they will take a burned out bulb too. Well I say it burnt out but I didn't check. I'll say it just failed.
  10. Correction.... No ! You have a Inferior Headlight Housing... ...... It's a BUSA, what did you expect. Oh you..............
  11. I went with the 35W 6k and it's bright as shit. The 55w would be just too much. The problem is none of these head light housings are set up for HID so you throw lots uf unused light all around giving it a halo effect.
  12. The Angels will be my next set. I replaced my PR2's for Roadsmarts and found the Roadsmarts don't last near as long as the PR2's and don't hook up as well as the PR2's but turn in more nutal and hold a line ........ until you roll on the throttle then it's all over the place, for me anyway.
  13. Ok I finally ordered a battery. Stock came with the Yuasa YT12A-BS it has or had cca of 175. I ordered the upgrade Yuasa YTZ14S with a cca of 230 this should do the trick. I’ve been reading the Suzuki dealers have been known to over cook new batteries and in turn shorten their lives. You ever wish Honda would make a 1400cc hyper tourer? sigh.
  14. In case someone doesn’t know what the DEI 528T delay timer looks like……….. There are two reasons for adding it to my bike. 1. When turning on the key and the ballast powers up, depending on how much juice is in your battery, it can pull enough power to reset the clock. 2. When turning on the key it powers the ballast then the bulb flickers and comes on, then by pressing the start button to crank the bike, power is killed to the ballast till bike starts then repowers the ballast bulb flickers and comes on again. So the head light has to come on twice. With a DEI- 528T 30amp delay switch, you turn on the key and the timer starts a 10-90sec delay (adjustable) before the ballast is powers up. That gives the bike time to start and the charging system to energies. No reset clocks and the bulb only comes on once to extend it’s life In the pics above the DDM kit come apart in 3 sections, the bulb with it’s plug, the ballast with it’s relay/capacitor that plugs into the bulb and the power wire that one end plugs in to the OE headlight connector and the other end plugs into the ballast (this is the wire you spice in the timer.) I should have done a better job of taking pics as I went along.
  15. Just did it today....... holly cow!! :icon_clap: http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...mp;#entry762582
  16. Installed the DDM Tuning HID kit today with the DEI 528T delay switch wired in to the power pig tale on the kit. Most of my time was spent to figure out where to put everything and cutting the wires so there wouldn't be to much slack or extra wires wadded up behind the fairing. I know everyone who has installed HIDs have been very impressed and I’m no different…..Should of done it years ago and for as cheap as they are now there is no reason not to have them. Sort video with the dalay timer set to 35sec.
  17. LOL..... And I thought I was pimp.... wrong. you were (still are) the shit!!! I didn't even have the body kit much less a tuxx
  18. Great decision, almost, do both. Worth every bit and last much better. Only thing that I find a problem at all is the slow start up. but, after the first time they seam to be quick enough. At night, I kick the high on right away, so it is charged up. I have the euro right switch, so I, as you know, can turn it off at startup. Do they make one for yours? I wonder if one for the bird could be adapted for yours. Can't be that much different. As far as I know of, no euro switch. Most are splicing some sort of capacitor for the high beams so the “flash to pass” switch will work. They are also splicing in some sort of relay timer thingy on the low beam to give it a 10sec delay. Something about the power drawl before the bike starts makes the clock reset some times
  19. I'm going HID http://www.ddmtuning.com/index.php?p=catal...ent=61&pg=1 Low beam only, 35w-6k. That should do it.
  20. I wasn't being a smartass, really. I like your bike, but it does vibrate more than an XX and vibration does kill bulbs. Double sigh
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