RodeRash
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Posts posted by RodeRash
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Apparently the guys at the Kawi factory used real soft screws and gobs of locktite to hold the butterflies in. You gotta heat up your #2 phillips screwdriver till its red-hot, hold it on the screw for 30 to 40 seconds to melt the locktite & then back em out real careful. Its almost like they knew people were gonna try it
It's more like they didn't want any screws sitting in the intake track to come loose. Not all that good on the motor.
I'm surprised they are not staked in place.
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Storm doors open out, but the main door opens in, which puts the hinge inside the house.
You don't need a battering ram, just a drift to knock the hinge pins out.
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I've got a friend that has a blue and yellow Honda CBR 1000RR for sale.
He is asking $7800
The bike only has 1008 miles on it. No modifications, never been down. Big chicken stripes on the rear tire.
PM me if you are interested, and I'll get you in touch with him for more info.
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I bought a handfull of 2ct because I got them for less then standard paowers.
I'm on the last set. If you're really hitting them (grade A road) you can watch the sides of the rear disapear.Ummm, I've noticed you seem to have that same problem with just about every tire you ever mounted on your bird.
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BTW, the Saturn Vue V6 is a Honda engine, FYI.
The Gen1 Vue had the Honda engine.
GM has decided to drop the Honda engine option for the second-generation 2008 Saturn Vue when it goes on sale this summer, according to a report in Automotive News. Honda had been supplying its 3.5-liter V-6 for use in the first-generation Vue since the deal was signed in 2002.The deal was a highly beneficial one for Saturn. The Honda-powered Vue was popular and accounted for slightly more than half of the model's total sales throughout its lifespan.
Taking the place of the Honda engine will be GM's high feature 3.6-liter V-6.
My wife has a Gen 2 Vue as a company car. She puts a lot of miles on a vehicle. I like it better than the two previous Chevy trailblazers she had. It's been relatively trouble free through 65,000 miles. The only problem she has seen was a broken harmonic balancer, (It would slip for a second when you first started the car, and would slip a lot during rainstorms when water from the road would get spashed on it.) It was replaced under extended warranty.
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There may be something in the Teflon lube or the propellant that is deteriorating the o-rings.
I would use chain lube that is listed as being safe for o-ring chains.
If you like the Teflon lube because it sprays on clean, and does not fling off, take a look at Bel-Ray super clean chain lube.
I've had good luck over the years with it.
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As anal about oil and oil changes as most motorcycle riders are, I can't imagine the oil bypass valve ever being actuated.
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For decades, dietitians, doctors and nutritionists have made the link between eating speed and weight. People who eat slower tend to eat less and weigh less. The slower you eat, the less food it takes to get you full. The commonly stated reason for this is that the feeling of satiety doesn't really come from your stomach. Like every other feeling you experience, it comes from your brain. It takes time for your body and your brain to complete the communication exchange that finally tells you to stop eating because you're full.
In the last couple of years, science has backed up this common knowledge with experiments that test eating time, amount eaten and the feeling of satiety. The results are consistent: Eating slower means eating less and still feeling "full." A study presented at the North American Association for the Study of Obesity in 2004 had 28 overweight subjects eat a meal at varied eating speeds, always eating as much as they wanted. In one meal, the subjects ate as quickly as they normally would; in another meal, for the first half of the meal they could only take a bit of food when they heard a beep, and for the rest of the meal they could take a bite whenever they wanted; and in the third meal, they had to match bites to beeps for the entire meal (the bites went on indefinitely, so they could still eat as much as they wanted). Invariably, the subjects ate less during the beep-mediated meals than in the free-form meal.
A 2006 study achieved similar results. In this one, 30 women were given big plates of pasta for two different meals. In each meal, they could eat as much as they wanted, but in the first meal, they were told to eat quickly. In the second meal, they were told to eat slowly, chewing each bite of food about 20 times before swallowing. In the fast meal, the women ate an average of 646 calories in nine minutes before they were full. In the second meal, they ate about 579 calories in 29 minutes before they were full. And they reported that they still felt full an hour after the second meal, even though they'd eaten less than during the first meal.
So what's the scientific reasoning behind the results? It's the same as the common-knowledge reasoning. Essentially, people who eat very quickly are overshooting their actual point of satiety. Since the feeling "I am full" comes from the brain, not from the stomach, the amount of food in your stomach is not the only factor involved in the satiety process. It takes time for the body to tell the brain that it has had enough food; and only when the body has sent this signal to the brain can the brain activate the satiety response (which originates in the hypothalamus) that makes us stop eating. Some experts claim it can take up to 20 minutes for the body's signal to reach the brain. So in theory, someone who takes one bite a minute may only overshoot her fullness by 20 bites of food, while someone who takes five bites a minute eats 100 bites more than her body really wants before the satiety signal makes it to the brain.
Twenty minutes seems like a very long time for a signal to reach the brain; but as it turns out, the signal is coming from the intestines, not from the stomach. It takes time for the food we eat to move from the stomach to the intestines, which could explain why it takes so long for our fullness to register with the brain.
If you really love food, eating slower means you get to enjoy it even more.
One of the best ways to slow down, is to put your fork or spoon down between bites. Don't scoop and chew at the same time.
Concentrate on enjoying that mouthful before you start on the next one.
This also works with things you eat with your hands. Set it down while you chew.
Despite what your parents may have told you when you were young, you do not need to clean your plate.
Leaving something behind is a good way to cut calories without changing your life.
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If you still have the center stand, it's no big deal.
Put the bike on the center stand. Put a small jack under the oil pan. (I lift on the drain bolt)
If you remove the front fender, you only need to lift the front enough so the tire turns freely.
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I'm not sure what they do for the Blackbird. I was happy with the stock bars.
Here's what they did for my Busa.
1 5/8" Taller 1/2" Rearward 1/2" Wider Overall
I had to re-route my fast idle cable (documented in the install instructions) otherwise, everything bolted up just fine.
My dealer had a set in stock that they ordered for someone that didn't pick them up. I negotiated the bars and a used throttlemeister as part of the deal when I bought the bike.
On the Busa, the bars slide into mounts built into the top triple clamp. They do not clamp on the fork tube. Unless you put two bikes side to side, you cannot tell the difference.
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Maybe a Moderator could move this into the Important/Useful Threads section.
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You start by riding a perfectly good XX off a mountain....
Was it off a mountain or into one?
Off a mountain and into a tree.
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Friggin hilarious.
5 miles, only dropped once. :icon_loser:
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OK all you guys that called dibs when Dave bought the ZX.
It's time to put up or shut up.
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just changed to Rotella full synth, seems great so far
Careful changing oil brands. I switched from HP4 to Rotella synthetic, and before I knew it, my Blackbird was switched for a Suzuki.
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btw. i bought some "chrome" deer whistlers so now instead of ignoring me as i ride past on 100 the deer stare at me.
Sounds like you mounted them backwards. Be careful. If they are mounted backwards, they will call the deer to you.
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Unless you're just a nice guy with a desire to build something, I would seriously look into the business considerations of building a complete exhaust system for a motorcycle that is no longer manufactured. Your marketing possibilities are extremely limited. You have a limited number of customers, many of whom already have an aftermarket exhaust system.
If you still want to try.......
Your best bet would be to design new mid pipes that connect to an existing aftermarket header. (such as akro, or yosh) That way, all you need to build is a pipe from the collector that splits in two and can connect to existing aftermarket silencers. You add in a stop on the left hand pipe for the center stand, and now you have a 4 to 1 to 2 system without the restrictions of the stock header pipes.
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I do not recommend the Superbrace, nor did my suspension guy. The pics posted above are adjustable braces, and the Superbrace is not. Meaning ANY difference in distance between the forks (triples, axle spacers, forks, etc.) will result in a binding front suspension.
A proper fork brace should be adjustable, and installed after the wheel.
I've got to agree. I tried two different fork braces for my old RZ-350. The first one was not adjustable, and dramatically increased fork stiction. I replaced it with a brace that looks like the one shown at the top of this thread. You don't bolt the two halves together until after the front end is completely assembled (Including tires) The last thing you do is work the suspension through full travel a few times to make sure everything is in complete alignment, then you tighten the brace halves together.
IIRC: For best results, you follow this adjustment procedure whenever you have the wheel off the bike.
Proper alignment is hard enough when the forks are secured to each other in three places. (Axle, lower clamp and upper clamp) When you add in a fourth mounting point, the alignement better be perfect.
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Back to the original question.
The crush washer is designed to do the same basic job as the washer on a spark plug.
Create a leak proof seal at reduced torque settings.
Yes, you can continue to reuse the washer, but you need to torque the bolt more.
You guys spend big bucks on the best oil and the best filter.
Why not finish the job right with a new crush washer?
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Chrome plating over hardened steel can cause Hydrogen Embrittlement.
Your chromed chain could easily fail.
I guess that could be a down side.
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When I bought my bird, the previous owner had 3M film on the tail section where soft luggage hangs. He also covered the leading section of the front fairing, and the sides of the tank.
It was on at least 8 years that I know of, and worked great. I don't know if you can remove it or not.
AFIK: It was put on by professionals.
There are definitely tight compound curves involved around the nose section of the bird.
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You should have a machinist measure the rod and the crank before putting in a new bearing. Something made the old one fail.
The big end of the rod could be stretched out of round, and you would need to either bore it to the next larger size, or replace it.
If it's not out of round, at least you will know the correct size, and you can order new bearings.
Metzeler M3's
in The Garage
Posted
Never owned a set, but I heard they puncture easily.