RodeRash
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Posts posted by RodeRash
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Cruise Control
Make Your Own $1 throttle lock.
Buy a 1" diameter 3/16" rubber o-ring at your hardware store in the plumbing section. When you want to lock your throttle, put it between your bar end weight and your throttle grip. Otherwise roll it onto the bar end weight. You might need one or two 7/8" diameter 1/8" rubber o-rings also. If you don't have bar end weights, you can use a 1½" o-ring or a loop of clothes line between the throttle grip and the switch housing. Alternative: buy a large o-ring fromCaterpiller depending on the diameter of your handlebar weights. About $2. The silicone O-ring has better to UV resistance, the nitrile O-ring is a harder material that should wear better. Thanks to R.Cairns of OZ for the detailed info. Caterpiller 5.33mm O-Ring part numbers Diameter Silicon Nitrile
24.77mm 8M-5266 8B-4967
27.94mm 8M-4991 5H-7370
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On topic: Bead seat. Really.
+1 on the Beads. They also move from bike to bike.
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How much were they ?
$51.00 from my dealer. (Stock Suzuki set was $38.00)
On line, usually around $50.00 + shipping.
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It was time for new tires, so I ordered a new set of cush drive rubbers.
I ordered a set from Sensei. They claim that they are four times tougher than the stock units.
They are really a tight fit. You need to use plenty of silicone before assembly, and then you still need to stand on the sprocket to get them started, then a BF dead blow hammer to seat the sprocket completely. (This is also the recommended install procedure per the included instructions.)
What a difference. It drops into gear smooth as can be, and shifts are way smooth. There is no more driveline snatch when transitioning from off to on throttle. Between the drive rubbers and new tires, it's like a whole new bike!
I dunno if Sensei makes them for the BlackBird, but if they do, I'd get a set. I highly recommend them.
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The stock ECU will not perfectly correct the differences made in the engines new AirFlow/Fuel requirements, but it will still run very very well....
If you want it to run top notch, then yes, you'll need to get it a PC and get it mapped...... the only problem there is....
Finding someone that can map it correctly....
+1
Check with your local road-racers and drag-racers (preferably the ones that win often). They should be able to send you to a good dyno shop.
And, don't forget that Road Racers and Drag Racers usually only put most of their tuning effort into a narrow band, say 3/4 to full throttle.
Real world riding requires much more than that.
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On the plus side.....It is externally adjustable for compression and rebound.
It has a remote reservoir.
On the minus side......You need a custom spring.
It is even older than your stock shock, and will need a rebuild for sure.
It will never work nearly as well as anything you can get from the aftermarket.
Don't do it.
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My wife won this system in a sales contest, and we already have a surround system.
Complete, and ready to set up, including all cables.
Sells for $2499 everywhere. Asking $2100 + shipping. PM for more info.
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Oops
in The Garage
Most of that will blow right off with an air compressor.
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Not to hijack your thread, but what is a good replacement bulb that offers more light, and can I go with higher wattage, not looking to go HID.
Same wattage as stock, so no worries about melting mounting pieces.
EDIT
I have not tried these yet, but THIS looks like the way to go.
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Rotella was designed for Diesel engines, and it contains more of a specific additive than can be added to automobile specific oils.
ZDDP (zinc dialkyldithiophosphate)
ZDDP does not reduce friction or wear.
What ZDDP does, is to minimize damage caused by metal to metal contact. (which shouldn't happen anyway)
This amount of this additive is restricted in automobile specific motor oil because of potential damage to catalytic converters.
Interestingly enough, ZDDP is used in most motorcycle specific oils, which is why a lot of people use Rotella instead of paying more for motorcycle specific oils.
In the end....it probably doesn't matter at all.
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Quality lubricant is what keeps a engine bulletproof.
I'm at 67,000+
67,000 miles is a bunch. I think I change my oil about every 4-5 thousand.
I probably posted something similar to this at one time, but.....
I'm more picky about the oil and oil filter that goes into my truck than my bike.
My pickup cost a bunch more than the bike, and it gets used a lot harder. It has to deal with short trips that really don't get the oil up to full operating temperature, and a lot of stop and go driving.
My bike, by comparison has it easy. It gets nice long rides in the country, not much stop and go, and it has enough horespower that I don't need to run the crap out of it to go fast. I use Silkolene oil in the bike only because my dealer buys it in bulk, and they sell it to me cheap if I supply the container.
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Thanks a lot for your help.
In the meantime, I've read a lot of threads around here, and also did the tests from the manual.
I have output from the stator (something like 9 volt at iddle and more than 40 volt when reving, but my battery wasn't fully charged yet).
The continuity tests are all as stated in the manual, so I guess it must be a dead rectifier.
Or a bad battery that just won't take a charge.
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RodeRash,
Thanks for these important FACTS about bread consumption.
I have some statistician friends right there in your home town, so I’ll forward this to them for a rigorous statistical analysis.
Let you know how it turns out.
Mike
Good idea Mike. Let me know what their analysis comes up with for #12.
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1) More than 98% of convicted criminals are bread eaters !
2) Exactly half of all children who grow up in bread - eating households score in the bottom 50% on standardized IQ tests !
3) In the 19th century, when virtually all bread was baked in the home, the average life expectancy was less than 55 years; infant mortality rates were unacceptably high; many women died in childbirth; and diseases such as typhoid, scarlet fever, smallpox and influenza ravaged entire nations !
4) Statistics show that more than 75% of violent crimes are committed within 24 hours of eating bread !
5) Bread is made from a substance called "dough." Researchers have proven that as little as one pound of dough can choke a large animal like a horse. The average person eats more bread than that in one month !
6) Bread is known to be extremely addictive. Subjects deprived of bread and given only water, actually begged for bread after just two days !
7) Bread is a "gateway" food item, which usually leads to such items as butter, jam, peanut butter and even ... bacon !
8) Bread has been proven to kill. Scientists have now uncovered alarming evidence that 100% of the people who eat bread will eventually die !
9) Unattended newborn babies can choke on bread !
10) Bread is baked at temperatures as high as 425 degrees Fahrenheit ! Don't laugh...that kind of heat can kill a full grown adult in less than five minutes.
11) 96% of cancer victims eventually admit that they've eaten bread !
12) Sadly, 9 out of 10 bread eaters are unable to distinguish between significant scientific fact and meaningless statistical babbling.
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thanks seems the road is the choice for the rear. now for the front.
do the roads up front last long enough to burn two rears to one front < i assume i will still get 4-5k miles out of the rear>?
for the guys that mix the power and roads when you change out the rear what is generally left of the power front when the rear is cooked?
My thinking is, if im not going to get two rears to every front with the roads i might as well put a power up front.
With the stones 020 i think the front tire would go another rear but i just don't like the tire enough to keep it.
I run Pilot Road 2's front and rear.
My last set of tires went a little over 8,000 miles. There was still tread, but it was down to the wear bars front and rear.
My current set won't make it that long. You can blame a certain road in Arizona for that.
No way could I keep a front tire through two rear tires. And, yes, the PR2 front tire sticks well.
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Oh, you still have the parts. They're just not private any more.
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You don't have any private parts.
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A suspension guy told me he could use the F$ internals and give me adjustment for both rebound and compression as well as preload by setting one side for rebound and the other for compression.
I'd heard about using the adjustable lowers too, but when I checked with my suspension guy, (PPS Suspension) he didn't think it would work, because you need the lower fork legs as well as the internals.
If you do that, you lose the ability to mount the brakes, and the BlackBird fender.
He just set spring rates and damping up per my weight and intended riding style, and he matched them to the Penske shock he also set up for me. He spent a lot of time reducing stiction in the forks. After I mounted the forks and shock, I checked the sag, and it was dead on. The suspension worked great, and except for normal maintaince, I never messed with it again.
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If you hate cardio try this:Here's one of the most effective Cosgrovian complexes:
Deadlift
Romanian Deadlift
Bentover Row
Power Clean
Front Squat
Push Press
Back Squat
Good Morning
On round one, perform 6 reps of each exercise, moving from one exercise to the next, never letting go of the bar, never resting. Remember, you'll finish all six reps of each exercise before moving to the next one.
Rest 90 seconds after the first circuit, then perform 5 reps of each in the next circuit; rest 90 seconds, 4 reps of each; rest 90 seconds, 3 reps of each; rest 90 seconds, 2 reps of each; rest 90 seconds, and then do 1 rep of each.
Cosgrove says that the entire workout should take about 12 minutes, not counting the time you spend sobbing like a little girl in a purdy pink dress.
http://www.tmuscle.com/free_online_article...redded_physique
Its very quick and will have you huffing if you have a piss poor work capacity like I do.
I agree. Do those for a while, and you'll learn to love cardio.
Brett, You're an animal.
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Weird
in The Garage
After sucessfully using Phillips Vision+ bulbs in my Bird, I installed one in my Busa shortly after I bought it.
It failed during the West Coast Bash a couple years ago. When I got back home, I re-installed the stock bulb, and have not had a problem.
It could just be a concidence. I don't know.
With my Busa, I also found that I had to adjust the headlights up quite a bit before they worked well. They were pointing at the ground even before I raised the back of my bike up.
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……… and Busa's are gay
And their owners even more so!
Absolutely!
Aftermarket Fenders
in The Garage
Posted
Back in the day, I got my fiberglass fender from Spec II.
http://www.spec2.com