RodeRash
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Posts posted by RodeRash
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13 hours ago, superhawk996 said:
86 degree ocean….where are you?
Sounds like in or near hurricane country.
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I ran the gold colored DID ZVM-X chains on the Bird and Busa but the factory chain on my ZX14 has already outlasted any of the DID chains that I have used in the past.
With over 110 ft/lbs of torque, the 14 should be harder on chains than either the Bird or the Busa.
When it dies, I am going to go with another OEM chain. (DIDZ50M4)
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After my first hard ride on my Bird felt, it the same. I balanced the rear tire and replaced the cupped front.
Fixed the problem.
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I'm currently running Motorex Top Speed 15-50
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On 12/14/2016 at 1:08 PM, jon haney said:
If this is a Chevy, go with DBLXX's suggestion. :-)
Damn Ford fanboi.
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Seems like it has been done. Check this thread for more information. It may or may not help
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On 7/3/2016 at 8:56 PM, TeXTrain99 said:
That bag looks like it could tell some stories.
We've been all over the country together. But....like many middle aged women, she could use some cosmetic help. In this case, Rit die.
Here are some new pics.
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RKA expandable magnetic tank bag for sale. Asking $50.00 PayPal. Shipping included in USA.
Near new map pocket. Includes waterproof cover.
It came with a safety strap, and I may have it somewhere, but it is not needed.
No problems with this bag ever coming loose on the BlackBird or the Hayabusa.
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Just passing the link along.
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On my bike, changing from 17-40 to 18-43 will shorten the distance from sprocket to sprocket by a little under .65 inch.
I have enough adjustment for that. I will probably make this change next time I need a new chain.
Posted Yesterday, 03:51 PM
Edit-there are certain combinations to avoid based on the number of teeth interacting negativelyPlease explain, if not here, start another thread.
Here is a link that will let you calculate most everything related to chain and sprocket changes.
It has a section where they look at possible chain wear.
The same tooth same link section can show you combinations to avoid.
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Mike, RoadRash you are going the wrong direction, 16 man 16, drives out of corners like a mofo
I already have enough power. (It's a BUSA).
What I'm really looking at is up one in the front and up 3 in the rear. (So, almost no effective change in overall gear ratio)
It's something Suzuki did with the Gen II and I'm trying to decide if I have enough swingarm adjustment.
I'm looking for a few improvements from this setup.
A little more clearance between chain and swingarm at either end of suspension travel, which is worth looking at since I raised the ride height.
A little less wheelbase for improved handling.
Less stress on the chain going around larger sprockets.
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XX Q
in The Garage
The HID's on this new XX suck. They look to be permanently on high beam and literally light up the whole sky.
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Those of you who are running a larger front sprocket on your bike with the stock chain......How much did it shorten your wheelbase?
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I'd offer him $1K less than what he's asking...just because he never did routine maintenance as it sat in the garage.
At the very least, he should have changed the oil and coolant every 3 years. The tires may be fine, but I'd not trust them on a trip after a decade of aging.
I'd presume that OEM coolant would still protect the system from all that sitting around and doing nothing, but until you won't know until you run some system cleaner through it and see what comes out.
You really are a piece of work.
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I recently ordered a new map case for my RKS magnetic tank bag.
While on the phone with the RKS guy, he mentioned that after they sell out the remainder of their stock, they will no longer sell magnetic bags.
Most of the new bikes have plastic tank covers and the market is no longer there.
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On my second set on the Busa. I use an A spec in the rear A BlackBird probably needs the A spec as well.
7000 miles on the last set. Still good tread, but not enough for the 2500 miles I racked up on the OZARXX trip.
The second set looks great after 2500. Not much of a flat on the rear, consdering 1800 of those miles were on a flat straight road. They stick well. I prefer them to the PR2's I ran, but never tried PR3 or PR4.
They also perform well in COLD WET conditions.
The original Angels suck. They didn't stick well, and wore to the steel belts in just over 4000 miles.
I had better tread life and WAY better traction and handling with Diablo Rosso II tires.
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I need the RR of helmets. I just NEED IT.
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Get it load tested.
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Put winter tires on the front of wife's car this year and found out that they are directional tires. So I can't rotate them side to side and the right tire will wear out well before the left. My question is, can I do it anyway without it affecting the performance too much? Has anyone tried it? They are Firestone Winterforce that have small square block type tread.
You can rotate side to side, but you need to dismount and remount the tires.
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What belonging to the rotors has warped?
Fucking grammar Nazis
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post-144-0-92976300-1410116293.jpgThere now it's not on it's side.
That's just wrong.
Funny, but wrong
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Have you been replacing your rotors with factory parts?
I had a lot of problems with warped rotors on my 1997 GMC pickup. I had no problems until the OEM pads wore out. I replaced pads and rotors with aftermarket parts. They warped, I had them replaced under warranty. They warped again. I replaced them with a better quality rotor. They warped. I went to slotted EBC rotors and pads.
They warped.
Finally, I went to my dealer and had them put on OEM rotors and pads.
Fixed it.
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When I am riding regularly, about every other week. If the bike has been sitting for a more than a couple of weeks, I check before riding.
I always check tire pressures before any trip.
I replaced my stems with angled stems.
Stainless brake lines
in The Garage
Posted
That was a Warchild group buy. I used the group buy to replace brake and clutch lines on my Busa.
I wonder what kind of a kickback he got?