JuXXtin

You need a short shifter now.

Don't make me break out more of these!

Dyno sheet?

...all works great for the sport tour trips... :icon_lol: :icon_lol:

Yes, another way to do it. Brett's steering stem thread reminded me I was going to share some pictures of this idea. Get some aluminum stock from the store and bend it in the shape below. You must have ~8 millimeters (twice the thickness of your aluminum) of clearance between your dash and the windscreen. Also, the actual shape of your bend will vary depending on your windscreen (of course). I bent the aluminum to make a complete circle so the mounting bolt/nuts goes through it twice. Then wrapped it in electrical tape. I also used a little electrical tape on the dash and underside of the windscreen so it doesn't scratch either in case it was close or touched. Then installed it and ran a couple wires than I needed. In this case, a speaker wire and miniusb wire. A few thousand of miles later, it's still doing great. Check below: And the end result:

Hmmm, could that flood the motor before it gets started? If it's been sitting a few days then you still can't fire it right up right away, then probably not. I'm no expert though, just more food for thought for the real experts.

Ditto, I like that idea.

Your just thinking about where you can make smileys with that thing being that it's street legal.

Gas in tank? edit - fuel filter like the nearby thread in the garage?! Just a thought.

No problem Mike. Did not need the garden hose trick. I still used the OEM boot, was not a perfect fit - but close.

I don't have any experience with those, but I will toss out there, that... cyclegear is having a nice sale on Oct 25th for tires: "Pirelli Diablo Tire Packages ($179.98 for 120/180 and $189.98 for 120/190) Click here to reserve your tires now!" http://www.cyclegear.com/SpookySaturdaySale.cfm

I pulled those two loose wires out of the rubber grommet and pushed it forward almost against the HID bulb. Then it'll be used as the spacer that you'll need to clamp the metal bracket against to hold the bulb in place. And some reading here: http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...c=55268&hl=

Maybe a youtube instructional video is needed... just a thought.

Keep it at 5000+rpm at all times. Slip and drop the clutch as needed.

That's cool.

Yes, the topcase blocks the beetle's lids. Must move the topcase back slightly or off each time. JCW, about 45L. I did have that concern during installation, so I used industrial strength hex bolts, forgot the grade. Then had them extend all the way through the subframe an extra ~.5". Then used a m6 and m8 nylon thread locking nut on each of the two bolts on each side to ensure they don't back out and don't strip out. So far, 800 miles on that setup, most of which loaded with luggage... all is well.

They are $60-$70 all over ebay fyi, for two H7 kit.

All worked out... a little action down at the nuts and bolts section, and it all bolted up great.

No doubt... will be a fun time...! ...but can't... :icon_silenced: But at least it's not cause I'm doing my hair/dishes/laundry, I promise.

Thiks for the pics and comments on the stator Bren. My is good now.. but ya never know.

Agree with above. 2002+ VFR VTEC forks are 43mm, same as Blackbird. But you are selling 2001... which are 41mm I believe. Won't fit.

There was some that either just ended on ebay... or will in a day.

'99 Front... body work is off right now, can fill in later. Rear... 1 1/8" from tire to ground. Stock.

Agree, yup. The most economical route is replace the front with 15T, that will let you cruise at 60mph all day (assuming 48T rear). And no need to chg away from 110 stock chain length. And stil very fun for dual sportin'.

Test drove this evening. When hwy speeds with the 18/43 gearing 65-67mph and 35-3600rpm... when you hit SET, it sets instantly, great! I thought the accel would now be a little more quick, but still kind of slow, but no matter... setting is more important, so... I'll keep her installed.