birdrunner
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Posts posted by birdrunner
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Business and personal commitments keep me from riding. Bike has all of 500 miles last season and so far this season.
Always stored w/Stabil and a Battery Tender.
2001 Redbird-Red the rarest and the fastest of all the birds. :icon_eyebrows:
6100ish miles
VFR Bars
Dave's Peg lowering brackets
Speedo-healer, yet to be installed
Heavy Throttlemeisters, Brand new from Dave
Smoked touring windscreen
Givi E41 Keyless/Monokey bags w/ wingrack
and matching Topbox w/backrest pad.
Givi Turn signal extensions. Plug and play no molestation of the factory harness..
Run on full synthetic since 2500 miles
Clear bra on headlight and turn signals.
Pilot Powers with 300ish miles
The bad:
A 3/4" scratch on the front fender, another 1/2" scratch/chip on the grab bar, and the left mirror no longer folds back. No visible damage to the mirror.
$7k as equipped OBO.
Fly in to Spokane, dinner and dancing is on me, and Join up with Rich, et al for the West Coast Bash. This bike is ready to roll.
J
This is not mine. Same bike-Same bags...Sell it yet?
Just curious. BTW, sorry I missed you when I blew through town last week.
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Dunno Mike...IIRC, the group buy, through GP Suspension, didn't utilize Gold Valves on the rebound side as they felt they were unnecessary. It would seem they can be shimmed sucessfully.
My take on the difference in feel is the path 3 different manufacturers took to solve the same problem. As a matter of fact, Ohlins has 20mm valves that can be used too, but my buddy Rick who both sells and services Penske, Ohlins and Racetech stuff recommended the Penske valves after my initial Racetech install and subsequent observations as to what the front was or wasn't doing. I spoke with one of the guys here (Dundane?) who was very well versed with suspension and he suggested a completely different stack for the Racetech valves. Unfortunately, I already had the Penske valves installed. I suppose I could try the Ohlins at some point too, but Rick already has done a lot of back to back with the different valves and I feel confident the Penske's are correct, for me.
I'm glad you're happy with the Racetechs, but you may have a different opinion if you tried the others too...Hank
I had the boys at GP Suspension remake my Wilbers shock (They gutted it) plus rebuild the front end.
VERY MUCH worth the money. (350 for the Wilbers, 500 for the front.).
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Where is the adjustment for the rebound/dampening/ whatever its called.
Like I said the shock is buried between the extra crap I've got mounted, so I don't want to dig for it.
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A. if it happens alone... I dono... Which model do you have? Do you have the emulsion shock, or the full-deal with the remote res. and ability to adjust both compression and rebound?
B. Did you try going both ways with it, I hope? was there a puddle of fluid under the shock? I know several guys had their remote preload leak oil on them? I'd just keep trying to twist it if it was me...
C. That can simply be the not-quite-level-ness of your garage floor in several spots... My floor is concrete, and there are still places where I can't get the rear off the ground, and sometimes I can... It could also be that, if you had the thing on pit-bull stands over the winter, your front was compressed slightly, and the air has equalized in there at 0PSI while the forks are slightly compressed, so it will be trying to pull a vacuum when on the center stand, and not letting them fully uncompress? I'd unscrew and put back the fork caps, if it was me...
Mike
I got the one with the height adjustment, and remote pre-load adjustment. Didn't spring for the top-end one.
Thankfully there was no puddle under my bike this spring. I'm just wondering WTF, it's not the same as last year.
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OK, I got 6,000 miles on the Wilber's rear shock. Most of it heavily loaded / 2-up, on the highway. Last summer everything was fine. This spring I noticed 3 things.
A) The shock keeps the bike bouncing after hitting a dip in the road. This happens alone, or while 2-up.
The pre-load adjustment is either stuck or extremely hard to turn.C) Last year, my center stand didn't raise the rear high enough for the tire to clear the ground. Now it does. I'm assuming the shock isn't pushing the wheel down like it used to. ( My tire is worn more too, but I don't think THAT much)
Can the cold weather of winter affect these things?
What's the remedy? Details are helpful as I'm totally mechanically inept and I really don't have much room to get at this thing (Givi set up and the Uni-go trailer hitch ),
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I suggest you just start from the hot lead and work forward. Don't forget there's a fuse in the junction box.
I'd checked the fuse, and it's fine.
After several hours of frustration, I reached to move the junction box, when I touched the fuse, it rattled. Turns out the fuse was not tight in the holders.
Pushed the fuse in better and VOILA. I guess it'd be easier if I owned a voltmeter thingy. But anyways, I've got the electronics working fine. I'm just doing the plumbing now.
Truthfully, if it hadn't been for the fuse/electrical gremlin, this wouldn't really be a big deal to put in.
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Got my pro oiler a few weeks ago and just had time to get it installed over the weekend. This thing rocks. I will no longer be lubing my chaing and getting crap all over the plastic. What you you guys have your set to? mine is set to 12 s3 and it seems to lube fine with minimal fling
OK, I tried to get mine installed today.
Didn't work for me.
Questions:
What color is the Speedometer wire? ( I found the 3 wires, Pink, Dark Brown (black?) and Green) Which one to I hook up to?
Where did you run the wires? I kept them to the left side of the bike, and was going to put the junction box just aft of the battery.
Where did you end up running the ground. My first though was to go to the ground terminal where the tank is also grounded (on the left side again.)
Is using the left side causing EMI problems? I'm getting weird display codes on the controller.
While doing the EMI test, once I start the engine the readout flashes a couple numbers, then locks on to "E7". I can change the E7 reading by using the +- keys.
Did I mention I hate doing shit like this?
OK I've managed to test the speedo reading. put the Oiler into signal count mode, spun the tire, it worked. Turned the motor on, it counted if the wheel spun, but as soon as I hit the brake, it stopped. Excellent!
New Problem. Now the damn thing won't turn on!!!. No display, no error, nothing. I've tried reconnecting all wires, and moved the ground around to various places.
The wire splicers they supplied,..... are they worth a shit? It looks like it would work, but why intermittent power supply?
I'm going to connect straight to the battery, just to see if it's a power supply problem or a hardware problem.
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I hate this shit.
http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...mp;#entry513708
Reader's Digest version:
Where'd you put the junction box?
Any issues with EMI?
What'd you ground to?
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Got my pro oiler a few weeks ago and just had time to get it installed over the weekend. This thing rocks. I will no longer be lubing my chaing and getting crap all over the plastic. What you you guys have your set to? mine is set to 12 s3 and it seems to lube fine with minimal fling
OK, I tried to get mine installed today.
Didn't work for me.
Questions:
What color is the Speedometer wire? ( I found the 3 wires, Pink, Dark Brown (black?) and Green) Which one to I hook up to?
Where did you run the wires? I kept them to the left side of the bike, and was going to put the junction box just aft of the battery.
Where did you end up running the ground. My first though was to go to the ground terminal where the tank is also grounded (on the left side again.)
Is using the left side causing EMI problems? I'm getting weird display codes on the controller.
While doing the EMI test, once I start the engine the readout flashes a couple numbers, then locks on to "E7". I can change the E7 reading by using the +- keys.
Did I mention I hate doing shit like this?
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The last consumer test I saw was a couple years old, but it rated Philips Vision Plus as the best H7 lamp.... the only one that came close to the advertised 40% increase. Back then I bought them online via an English shop as they weren't available in N.America.
Like I said, that's been a couple years and there may be new technology around.
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I'm still waiting............ there's always next year.
Maybe Santa will see this.
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Still waiting for an announcement?
ME too! Waiting with BAITED anticipation.
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Seriously good buy,
Would there be a problem getting them for 2 different type bikes. If I read their site correctly, the unit seems to be fairly universal.
Shipping to Canada included in that as well? (if the parts are marked "Motorcycle parts" there's no import tax, just the sales tax.
BTW, Pablo was very helpful last year when I had some questions, he seems like a good guy.
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Once I get the bike situation sorted (ie buy one), my next purchase will be a Pro-Oiler.
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Had them on mine, loved the result.
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So, how many people are NOT having problems with the shock.
No problems so far :knock_wood_icon:
I've checked several times since reading these threads....no leaks.
+1 :icon_clap:
That's sort of what I figured. A 10% failure rate isn't a design problem, it's a quality control issue.
FWIW, I've got the Shock with ride height adjustment & pre-load, for an approx 250 lb load, riding semi-aggressively. Also got the front springs.
If they' go up for sale, this'll be the first place I post.
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So, how many people are NOT having problems with the shock. The group buy had lots of buyers. Sounds like a quality control problem though.
I'm worried and I don't even have the XX I bought the shock for! If I end up getting a different bike, this thread could cost me lots on the Re-sale.
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They'll ship to Canada, just won't take our credit cards, you'll have to pre-pay.
Maybe you should have checked with them before you made that statement. I did. :roll:
So they changed their policy again? I was told last spring that a USD money order would be OK.
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Always had nothing but good to say about New Enough, until now.
They no longer ship to Canada. They'll ship to the US Virgin Islands, Peurto Rico, etc., but not Canada.
Yet they keep sending me their emails. :roll:
They'll ship to Canada, just won't take our credit cards, you'll have to pre-pay.
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OK then, I guess I've been using the correct ones. Guess I'm gonna have ta go Big Bore to get the power I need.
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Your bike calls for the IMR9A-9H's, so I'd tell the shop where you bought them that they sold you the wrong plugs, and they should supply proper ones to you. .
Pre 2001 models are supposed to use a CR9EHIX-9 according to NGK.ca's website : http://www.ngksparkplugs.ca/
Any idea what the difference is?
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I have a 2000 also and after a longer ride I too smell fuel. I think its the fuel vent...I hope?
Mine too. When I asked my dealer about it the mechanic said it was the vent. But still, it's stronger than any other machine I've ever used.
I do find that the smell is less strong after I change the plugs. ( Which I have to do soon.)
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Don't forget the Group Buy Warchild is working on.
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I was also worried about the lower saddle height of the Corbin. So when I ordered mine, I had it built up and extra inch. Worked great.
***updated Had to happen bike broke down...
in The Garage
Posted
only thing that ever broke on my bike was the stater.