tgo63
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Posts posted by tgo63
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Any pics?
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Bruce,
I like my ek chain. It is a little more then did, I paid $140 total, but after 5000 miles I did not have to adjust it once. I did not changed the sprockets. I have them ready in my garage waiting for the next chain.
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253F
in The Garage
While I rode to work today eveything seemed to be normal. Sunny morning 79F 7:30am. When I was moving at 80 to 90 mph the temp gauge is between 182 -187, slowing to 55-65mph in top gear temperature quickly rises to 196-200. Pulling into parking lot, after going through little traffic - 2 traffic lights, fan kicked in at what it seemed 212F. I left fan running for a while after shutting down the engine and eveything seems to be normal, no noises, vibration etc. My coolant level is o.k.
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253F
in The Garage
Where I live with a little planning there is not much heavy traffic so I keep moving most of the time. I wear shoei helmet - I think it would be hotter without it, JR Phoenix, jeans, daytona boots and K2 perforated leather gloves. I do not have major problems with heat.
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253F
in The Garage
I did some reading in overheating topics and someone mentioned the enginge shutting off at 250F. Is it true that engine will shut itself down? My never did, I turned it off at 253F right after first blink of the temperature gauge. I also think Joe is right stating there might be some 'hot spot' in cooling system responsible for sudden temperature spikes. I will keep my eyes on temp gauge.
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253F
in The Garage
No, I did not leave fan running. The heat index was 110F but in the spot where I was with no breeze and all the vehicles around it felt like 125F. The bike run ok before and after restart. I replaced about 2 1/2 quarts of coolant about 3 months ago with pre-mixed honda coolant. I did not drained all original coolant.
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253F
in The Garage
Today my coolant temperature got to 253F. We had 100F about 5:20PM and the highway closed down with traffic redirected to service road. Stop and go traffic with more stop then go. I did not want to split - too many cops. With the temp gauge climbing I was thinking about stopping but it looked like there was an opening in the front so I kept going. Suddenly when I stopped again the temperature climbed to 253. I stopped the motor with the second blink of the temp gauge. I stopped for about 5 minutes, and with less traffic I decided to start again. On the restart temperature was 245F but it came down quickly to 210 once I got under way. The highest I saw before was 238F. I run mobil1 motorcycle synthetic oil. Anything I should be worried about?
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All above is the reason why I use oem filter as replacement
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If you have one of those automotive metal band oil filter tools you can grind teh edges off so it will fit between header and the filter. The hardest part is to get a proper filter tool to break it loose, everything else is a snap. I never had to loose fairing bolts.
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I'm on the third change using Mobil 1 MX4T. First two changes after 3K miles, last one after 4K. I like the oil, I have perception the bike shifts smoother with it then with red cap mobil. I think it is worth it extra $15 over red cap.
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I got 7100 from oem dunlops 205, then 9000 from bt020, right now I have 3400 on pilots roads and they hardly show any wear. My weight is 170 lbs All numbers in miles
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with abut 85% of highway riding, often in triple digits, I get regularly 39 to 40 mpg on my stock 2002.
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I find it hard to believe he gets average 80K miles on RK chain especially in England with all rain and shitty weather. Even with scott oiler 80K miles is pushing the limit
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there are to many thing to consider to easily answer your question. The same chain can last 15K miles for one rider and 30K for another. Style of riding, maintainance, are two major factor affecting the chain mileage. I replaced my oem at 15K, it developed kinked link so I decided to change it. Went with EK, no noticable strech after 3K miles
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Well done MZ!
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It took exactly two weeks to get my new pads. I am very glad I decided to order new set. The left outer pad was completly finished at the top. I did not notice any unusual damage on my disk, I do not own micrometer to measure its thickness. I had 19530 miles when I changed them. Next time I will remove the pads to inspect them at 10000 miles. With pads installed it's very hard to inspect them on left side
Here it's the pic of the old pads. I have to fix date stamp on my camera.
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stock system weighs 42 pounds...
Aftermarket Micron Race Zeta... 14...
does anybody know if 42 lbs is for non-catalytic converter stock? I would assume converter version is even heavier.
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Todd,
I will let you know when I get them
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I decided to get complete set of oem pads for the blackbird from arizona motor sport for a total $110 delivered.
.. did you say Arizona Motorsports? :pistols: :bitchslap:
O.K. I will keep my mouth shot :oops:
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Most of my miles is commuting 25 miles one way, about 22 miles is highway. I prefer using engine braking then actual brakes whenever possible. I checked my pads using flashlight today and it seems as mine are not affected by uneven wear as some mentioned
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Am I the only one who prefers oem brake pads over aftermarket? I base my experience on my previous bike kawasaki zr-7s. I tried ebc and galfer on kawi and each time I felt I had better feel with oem. Aftermarket also used to make more noise. Another thing I noticed was not much improvement over stock kawi shock when I installed wilbers 640 at about 30000 miles. I only weight about 170lbs. I decided to get complete set of oem pads for the blackbird from arizona motor sport for a total $110 delivered. I still have lots of life in original pads with 19000 miles but want to have spare set just in case. Anybody knows if the oem pads can be bought for less then I paid?
Thanks
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It takes a little practice to engage it one handed and it is most usefull on flat land
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Thanks, I also talked to mechanic I know and he also said that's about right. I got a little concerned because my front calipers started making grinding noise at one point when turning but noise dissapeared after a while. I still have lot's of pads left at 19K miles. Most of my riding is highway.
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When I turn my front wheel while the front is lifted it only turns about one full turn when moderate force is applied. Do you think it's normal? If I remeber correctly my zr-s front wheel spinned much easier. The rear wheel spins about the same when comparable force is used.
Group buy on HID
in The Garage
Posted
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