tgo63
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Posts posted by tgo63
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I'll do it next time Jim, thanks
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One of the best price I've seen for ek chain is schnitz racing.
EK530ZZZ gold is $174.95 includes one rivet master link. Shipping is $8.05
In my case DID lasted longer then EK 530zvx but it was more due to proper tension, lubrication then particular brand.
I do not think we have to worry too much about small difference in tensile strenght.More important is to have chain properly installed.
Sparkplugs, I just changed them yesterday, ordered from sparkplugs.com. Below is my order info, 10% discountcode found on one of mopar forums. Just google for 'sparkplugs.com discount' rightnow I do not see any. irtitan expired january 27
Following is a summary of your order:
4 - NGK Iridium plug
Stock Number: 6966
Part Number: IMR9A-9H
Unit Price: $11.71
Extended Price: $46.84
Subtotal: $46.84
Discount: $4.68
Tax: $0.00
Shipping & Handling: $8.20 (UPS Ground)
Total: $50.36
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Tires
in The Garage
I ordered set of pirelli corsa strada. Been very happy with pilot roads but want to try the new brand. 226 shipped from sw moto tires. I get on average 10000 miles from pilot roads
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When I asked my local honda dealer how much would it cost to synchronize throttle body their answer was 'your bike is not carburated; you do not touch fuel injection'
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Thanks guys for all the suggestions, but luckily for me the noise was caused by the clutch basket with the oil still cold. Once I pulled in the clutch the noise was gone instantly. Apparently I have nothing to worry about...
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The marbles in metal can description sound right; weird thing is I only hear it until the motor warms up to operating temperature. I will check tonite if the noise changes when clutch lever is pulled in. new cct is on it's way thanks to John. Damned weather; rain and temperatur in 40's
Thank you all for help
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Tom, I'm sorry to inform you that the noise you are hearing is most likely due to the pickup coil on the stator. These can break off and migrate to the water pump, which in turn spits it down thru #3 water jacket and into the combustion chamber. The fix is to disconnect #3 plug wire and take the bike to your nearest Harley dealer for repair.
Thanks Joe; I just setup appointment with my local harley dealer
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Today I went back to oem exhaust thanks to the forum member who sold me never used cans from 02 model. I really enjoy bird's buzzy sound after spending more then a year with d&d. I'm a little concerned about rattling sound from the engine area that is much worse on startup and then gradually quiets down almost to non-issue. I hope it's only a cam tensioner and not something worse. The cold front is passing by so the temperature today is in the 40's. I did replace cam tensioner once about 25k miles ago. I never checked my valves; I do not trust myself to this job alone but I also do not know a mechanic that does it. Can someone describe the noise caused by bad cam tensioner? I'm going to order one anyway. Another weird thing I noticed after fitting oem cans after shutting down the bird I see exhaust fumes coming out from right exhaust ONLY for up to two minutes
Thanks.
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so how many krons those are selling for now?
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This is a copy of my order from sparkplugs.com:
Following is a summary of your order:
4 - NGK Iridium plug
Stock Number: 6966
Part Number: IMR9A-9H
Unit Price: $11.71
Extended Price: $46.84
Subtotal: $46.84
Discount: $4.68
Tax: $0.00
Shipping & Handling: $8.20 (UPS Ground)
Total: $50.36
I changed my sparkplugs first time after 20k+ miles and just got my second set. I google internet for 'sparkplugs.com discount' and found 10% off code on some auto forum.
here is description for IMR9A-9H - listed as recommended sparkplug for 2001-03 cbr1100xx by sparkplugs.com:
Iridium plug, 10mm, 3/4" reach, 5/8" hex, gasket seat, resistor, projected tip, extremely long life plug, iridium center electrode with platinum tipped ground electrode, .036"gap
NGK iridium plugs represent the ultimate evolution of spark plug technology and performance. The iridium center electrode is both stronger and harder than platinum. This tapered cut iridium center electrode reduces the voltage requirement for spark. This allows for a brighter, stronger spark from your existing ignition system. A platinum tipped ground electrode further contributes toward the extreme longevity of this plug.
here is description for IMR9C-9H:
Iridium plug, 10mm, 3/4" partial threaded reach, 5/8" hex, gasket seat, resistor, projected tip, extremely long life plug, iridium center electrode with platinum tipped tapered cut ground electrode, .036"gap
NGK iridium plugs represent the ultimate evolution of spark plug technology and performance. The iridium center electrode is both stronger and harder than platinum. This allows NGK engineers to design an ultra-fine (0.6mm)center electrode reducing the voltage requirement for spark. This allows for a brighter, stronger spark from your existing ignition system. The ground electrode has a tapered cut at the firing end which reduces quenching for better flame core growth and increased ignitability. The combination of fine wire center electrode and tapered cut ground will increase performance, improve acceleration, and fuel efficiency.
EDIT:
The more I look at it the more I get confused. When I placed order some time ago there was a different price, $7 against $11 per each and I also remember there was a difference in description. Now the description and price is identical??? WTF?
O.K. after reading description again I noticed IMR9A-9H has TAPERED center iridium electrode and IMR9C-9H has TAPERED ground platinium electrode. This is the only difference I can notice from description.
To add to confusion - description for CR9EHIX-9; this one seem to have standard (non-platinium) ground electrode. It is listed as recommended sparkplug for 1997-2000 cbr1100xx by sparkplugs.com
Iridium IX plug, 10mm, 3/4" reach, 5/8" hex, gasket seat, resistor, partial thread, fine wire (0.6mm) iridium center electrode, tapered cut ground electrode, .036"gap
NGK iridium plugs represent the ultimate evolution of spark plug technology and performance. The iridium center electrode is both stronger and harder than platinum. This allows NGK engineers to design an ultra-fine (0.6mm)center electrode reducing the voltage requirement for spark. This allows for a brighter, stronger spark from your existing ignition system. The ground electrode has a tapered cut at the firing end which reduces quenching for better flame core growth and increased ignitability. The combination of fine wire center electrode and tapered cut ground will increase performance, improve acceleration, and fuel efficiency.
Another one - CR9EHVX-9 platinium center electrode is listed as obsolete or N/A by sparkplugs.com
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You need to be a capable mechanic to do valves yourself. My bike passed 43k miles and I did not touch the valves. I asked my local honda dealer how much they would charge for valves check and the manager told my the bike does not need one. He said he would reccomend checking compression first before touching the valves. My take if the bike runs well do not mess with the valves. Most of the people who did check valves did not have to make any adjustments. On the other hand the manager is the same guy who, when asked about VFR, told me the bike is the pig and I should not even think about getting one
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I believe it's o.k. to shake off losse dirt or vacum oem filter but I never did it with my bike filter. It's too much work to get it out so I just replace it with new one. It only costs $27.00 from Honda Direct Line.
The 25 miles long strech of highway I use to get to work is being widened to 3 lanes in both direction. There is a lot of dust generated by construction plus we have very little rain.
The bird does run better with the new filter
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Today I received new oem air filter from honda direct and decided to replace filter element. Last time I had filter replaced about 17 months and 22/23k miles ago. I could not believe how dirty it was. It does not help that area where I live is very dry with a lot of road construction going on.
Below are two pictures of old filter
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just get D&D and CCT noise will become non-issue
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I ordered rear pilot road tire from ridenow.com on 7/21/2006. The order had been placed over internet. About 5 days later since I did not receive tracking # and no tire came in I caled customer service and spoke with Wayne. I was told the tire was not in stock but it's on its way from distributor warehouse. When I stated it would be nice to inform customer about product not being in stock he asked me did I ask if the tire had been in stock. I guess their policy is don't ask don't tell. after three more calls, each time I was being told the tire had been shipped from Idaho and its 3 days to get to their store, i decided to cancel my order on 08/14/2006. I did not have problem with cancelling it but Wayne did state he had the feeling he should receive my tire today. I ordered tire from ridedirect.com on monday, it was shipped on tuesday, and I will have them on Friday.
3 days later still no credit on my credit card. I did receive email from Wayne confirming my order had been cancelled.
I'm not very happy with ridenow.com
EDIT: credit card had been credited for entire amount 4 days later
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It's so simple...Your bird is pissed off you went for vacation and it was left all alone in the dark garage. Now it's going to hunt you for a while until yoy buy a nice suspension upgrade
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Almost 12000 miles on my rear pilot road and I'ts right at the wear marks. Front is at 10000 miles now and it looks very good. I will keep rear for few hundred miles more until my new pilot road comes in later this week.
Jeez Tom, what r u doing, trailering da wench and counting dose miles as Road mileage? 
I do not know Bruce why; most likely it's a combination of my light (?) 170 lbs weight, keeping pressure up at 42 psi most of the time, and highway commute. I did not write exact mileage when I changed my rear but I put about 1700-1800 miles on it before I changed front on which I have exactely 10000 miles. I actually enjoy getting good mileage out of my tires since I ride about 17000 miles per year. Onmy last rear pilot road I got just over 10000 miles so it looks like I should get 14000 from my next one
How are things at work?
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Almost 12000 miles on my rear pilot road and I'ts right at the wear marks. Front is at 10000 miles now and it looks very good. I will keep rear for few hundred miles more until my new pilot road comes in later this week.
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I'm not sure if you already checked this writeup but here is the link
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Avoid BT020, expecially front which has a tendency to cup. I experienced it first hand
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I was in the stealership yesterday - and they had Mobil 1 motorcycle oil for - gasp - $12.95/quart ! Yikes ! Is it that expensive everywhere ? I thought it retailed for about $6.
M1 MX4T full synthetic motorcycle 10W40 is $8.00 at AutoZone... AT least the ones around me still carry it...
Mike
+1
In my case oil change intervals are 5000 miles which works on average to every 4 months. Most of my riding is 50 miles daily commute. I also find shift quality best with MX4T full synthetic
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pair of D&D is solution to your problem
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with wife like yours in the back I would be finally able to flat foot the bird :icon_think:
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I quoted owner manual that came with 02 silver bird. Now I'm getting more confused. If the recommended slack of 1 to 1 3/8 in should be checked on the side stand setting the same slack with the bike on it's center stand would result in way to tight tension
Regularly Needed Parts and suppliers...
in The Garage
Posted
Sorry Eric
I hate myself buying something and see the same item at the lower price after the fact.
Here is the link to my original post about schnitzracing.com linky
If I saw your post earlier I would not let you pay over $200 for a chain. Note to admin; we should have a special section for vendors with lowest prices for popular items: tires, chains, sparkplugs, lightbulbs, brake pads, oem parts, etc...I know we have 'useful products links' section but it is growing quite fast with so many posts and it becomes difficult to find information.