SSUXX
-
Posts
504 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by SSUXX
-
-
On 5/5/2006 at 1:27 PM, testrider said:
Thanks, Jim,
How did you remove the line (steel line from rear brake) that's blocking
the clutch line?
I'm reviving an old thread because this pic is perfect for askign my question.
I have Helibars and want to add Genmar risers as well (Im getting too old for this shit). I absolutely want to use teh stock brake and clutch lines. the problem seems to be the little rubber plug just above the yellow arrow in the attached pic. The clutch line goes straight up to the left clip-on from that rubber piece and it's pretty tight. I suspect I would have to get the line away from the frame to free up some slack. does anyone know how to remove the line from the frame at this point?
-
Wouldn't a CBR900 shock be damped and sprung for a bike that weighs aprox 150 lbs less than an xx?
-
Pardon the hijack but how is a '98 and '99 wheel different?
-
I sent a pm but it's not saved in my outbox. If you did not receive, let me know.
-
I'd like to see pics.
-
WOO HOO... POST 3000!:icon_think:
So, Honda makes their own filters? Right there in Japan, with the same quality and engineering that goes into their automobiles and motorcycles.
And here I thought they bought them from an outside source, and had Honda labels put on!
They do buy them from an outside source. Lots of automotive parts come from outside sources. The proprietory source for Honda is not allowed to sell filters to the aftermarket. It's a violation of their contract. Regardless, Honda's OE filter is different than the aftermarket alternatives; Fram, Wix Puro, etc.
I'm not sure what your point is so please elaborate.
My point was regarding this part of your post:
Have you ever cut open an OE filter and compared it to a non-OE filter?You don't need to have much background knowledge to see the difference.
All of the non-OE filters are made in either China or Taiwan by one of 3 companies.
Where is the Honda OEM one made? (I'm not be sarcastic, I'm just curious if it's made in those countries.)
I really like the Mobil 1 filters... and I've seen the innards. I wouldn't use Fram now if they were free... I'd rather spend ten dollars on a quality oil filters... kinda like paying $4-8 per quart of quality oil.
-
:icon_think:
So, Honda makes their own filters? Right there in Japan, with the same quality and engineering that goes into their automobiles and motorcycles.
And here I thought they bought them from an outside source, and had Honda labels put on!
-
-
Tourmaster WP. Waterproof, comfortable. Love 'em. A little lacking in protection though.
-
+2
-
Since my owners manual is laying in the top of the tool box at home :icon_nono: I can't quote word for word.....but I am almost positive that mine says the 6th gear shift point is 36 mph.
I know that will probably be pushing it some, but the rev limiter should handle it if you flub the shift somehow at that "extended" rpm range... 
Mine pulls like the gravitational field of the sun at anything above 2500 rpm.... :icon_think: ...something must be wrong with your bike....
Edit: After thinking a bit more about this, and assuming you are being serious
, mine has had an annoying little dip in power (a panting sorta "gasp" is more accurate) here lately in the afternoons when it is really, really hot and humid and she has set baking in the parking lot at work all day. A hard roll on in 6th from below 4 grand get a little "chug" out of her... :icon_wall: It is not the Bird's fault! :icon_snooty: It is just shitty gas and super hot weather causing it. Once the temperature cools off and gets some cooler water vapor back in the air, she springs right on up to flipping my eyelids back when I roll on the gas. 
Owners manuals are the result of lawyers. Knowing this, most bikes manuals state very low speed shift points for their respective bikes to get around EPA regulations. This is the same reason some of the oil change intervals seem, well, crazy. I believe Honda recommends oil change intervals for the XX at 7500 miles! If they told everyone that oil changes should be done every 3000 miles, Honda would have a hard time passing EPA/DOT regualtions as the bike would be labeled a "Consumer" of fossil fuels and could have problems getting passed and thus sold in the US. This same logic applies to the 36 mph shift point. Honda had to Show the XX gets "X" gas mileage per tankful. To accomplish this, they state that you should lug around in 6th gear at 36mph to conserve fuel. Car Mfg's do this shit too, btw. This is why most people never get the fuel economy they are lead to believe!
Current oils are so good, they don't really "die" or break down as much as get dirty with particles smaller than the oil filter can filter out... 8k is probably not an unreasonable expectation for an OCI on this bike, considering it holds over 4 quarts of oil, while other bikes with 3k OCI's hold 2-3... I do 10k miles on synthetic oil, and 5k on Honda or Pure 1 filters... Last oil analysis said that I shouldn't have run them so long, because the engine was still breaking in, and had the metals to prove it, but the oil was in GOOD shape!
Mike
Of course this is true; 3000 mile oil changes are comical at this point.
The wording in the owners manual, however, it not based on how long the oil will last. The point of my post was not to discuss oil life but rather to discuss why Mfg's use the wording they do.
-
Since my owners manual is laying in the top of the tool box at home :icon_nono: I can't quote word for word.....but I am almost positive that mine says the 6th gear shift point is 36 mph.
I know that will probably be pushing it some, but the rev limiter should handle it if you flub the shift somehow at that "extended" rpm range... Mine pulls like the gravitational field of the sun at anything above 2500 rpm.... :icon_think: ...something must be wrong with your bike....
Edit: After thinking a bit more about this, and assuming you are being serious
, mine has had an annoying little dip in power (a panting sorta "gasp" is more accurate) here lately in the afternoons when it is really, really hot and humid and she has set baking in the parking lot at work all day. A hard roll on in 6th from below 4 grand get a little "chug" out of her... :icon_wall: It is not the Bird's fault! :icon_snooty: It is just shitty gas and super hot weather causing it. Once the temperature cools off and gets some cooler water vapor back in the air, she springs right on up to flipping my eyelids back when I roll on the gas. Owners manuals are the result of lawyers. Knowing this, most bikes manuals state very low speed shift points for their respective bikes to get around EPA regulations. This is the same reason some of the oil change intervals seem, well, crazy. I believe Honda recommends oil change intervals for the XX at 7500 miles! If they told everyone that oil changes should be done every 3000 miles, Honda would have a hard time passing EPA/DOT regualtions as the bike would be labeled a "Consumer" of fossil fuels and could have problems getting passed and thus sold in the US. This same logic applies to the 36 mph shift point. Honda had to Show the XX gets "X" gas mileage per tankful. To accomplish this, they state that you should lug around in 6th gear at 36mph to conserve fuel. Car Mfg's do this shit too, btw. This is why most people never get the fuel economy they are lead to believe!
-
I read through this thread and agree that Alum sprockets pretty much suck. I find one thing odd though: why did the front wear the way it did? I think your chain was/is misaligned. All the lube in the world, btw, won't save a misaligned chain. Did you take a close look at your chain?
-
At 6'2", 220, i'm able to get completely out of the wind with my Givi.
I can't see going any bigger.
-
Little tight but never had any problems. Now go shoot some deer.
-
Last night, fuel light comes on at 136 as usual. Stop for gas at 151 miles, bike takes 4.7 gallons.
-
Having owned a '99 for 5 years and now an '03, I find it amazing that my fuel light comes on at exactly 135 miles (both bikes). Bike will take between 4.3 & 4.5 gallons at fill up. Yeah, I know I should just ride with the light on but it can make you a bit nervous riding with that red light staring you in the face. The most gas i've ever taken at one time was 5.2 gallons with 215 miles showing on the odo.
Remove OEM clutch line...
in The Garage
Posted
Well, so much for reviving a long dead thread.
Im done with the install and didn't have to go near that bolt.
In case anyone wants to know, Helibars and risers combined work just fine with the stock clutch and brake lines. I had no problem at all. The throttle cables are just a tad tight at full lock but I think it will work.