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Dion

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Posts posted by Dion

  1. Alan, yes 2-bros use to make a full system in both the config you have and a shotgun config. All they make now are slipons. You may be able to call them to get the specs for proper jetting.

    Hello XX forum,

    I bought a 97 XX (yahoo!) which came with an aftermarket 2 Brothers exhaust system. The single muffler is carbon fiber and the system is a 4 into 1. My qustion is, did 2Brothers sell this muffler system at one time or is the header/muffler system a custom job? I can't find any reference to a 2bros 4-1 system after a couple google searches :icon_wall:

    Check this link: Here you go? Do the search for Honda sportbikes and in the dropdown, pick CBR1100XX. :icon_evilgrin:

    It would be interesting to see if you could actually buy one of those systems.

  2. I'm big. 270 pounds, and always sit on the bike when i take it of the center stand.

    And this is my 7'th season on the 'bird. But I have to inform that I'm trying

    to get down to 180 pounds. :icon_confused:

    There has to be another reason that one broke off.

    You haven't met Josh, At 270 you're just a little fella. Josh is "Big Boned"

  3. OK, I know this has been done to death but here goes. How frequent is too frequent to change ones oil? Let it rip. What's wrong with following the recommended milage in the owner's manual? Does it ever become a waste of money, oil, to change too frequently? Yes, I know "opinions are like ass holes, everyone has one" and we earn it we can spend it. Is, say, 3,000 kms too often? Is 9,000 ,kms too long?

    I would say maximum interval is what the manual says. There is no minimum, do what you like. I do the bird every 2800-3500mi. I do the track bike every 2 days.

  4. They want to clean the exhaust huh? I guessfor $1K, they'll be going through a lot of Q tips. Seriously though, if you are a competant wrench on cars and know FI decently , you can work on the bike just fine. If the bike were hydrolocked , it wouldn't turn over. You said it did. Change the oil and the plugs. Send the injectors out to be sonic cleaned and tested and then you should be good. I sure as hell would not swap out the fuel pump or the fuel pressure regulator as a precautionary measure.

    Pretty much a +1 on that... Do it yourself, and don't replace the pump or anything... The shop wasn't going to do it anyway, but they were sure as hell going to charge you for it!

    Mike

    +2

    If it was a stuck injector you would have smelled raw gas when it stopped. You're talking about a 6 yo bike with 400 mi on it. Take it home and dump the tank to look for rust or debris. Flush the fuel lines and replace the fuel filter. Check and or replace the plugs. Check the airbox for anything nesting in it. If you do have raw gas in the cylinders check for spark, if you have spark then check the injecters. You should do an oil change anyway.

  5. The suction cups will let go over time and they usually pick the worst possible time to do so.

    Check out the RAM mounting systems and look at the little Gold Wing mounts that use the bar clamps that hold your master cylinders in place. A shorty arm and one of the small mounting plates, a little 3M duo lock and your done. You can find the whole system at Gadget Guy.

    The Escort is not at all waterproof and it takes very little to destroy it. Gadget guy has boxes you can mount it in. I just put a shower cap over my farkle package which has a similar mounting system that includes my V1 with remote audio, XM SkiFi receiver and antenna and GPS V. It all hardwires to my tank bag, comes off with a twist of two wing nuts for security. Can't read the GPS or XM through it but no problems with the radar.

    I use the Ram with a dremeled garmin76 mount. just made a cut for the phone plug and added a velcro strap.

    Hookman used the window mount but took the cups off and did a clean bolt-on through the windshield.

  6. Very cool, thank you!!!!

    What is the best average for raising the forks?

    Kinley

    Make small moves and ride it until you're happy with the way it handles. Be aware that the more you go the quicker it will handle but you trade stability in the front end.

  7. Break ou t the old Black and Decker and drill a 5/16(3/8 if you intended to do any "adventure" riding) hole straight through the inner and outer tubes. Then you just need a carriage bolt and wingnut. the best part about this is you can drill additional holes in the inner tube to allow you to adjust your suspension on the fly depending on road conditions, load and you general riding mood.

    Fucking brilliant, Dion! :icon_clap:

    Although, you could take it one step further, and use a quick release pin for adjustments...

    I thought about that Chris but most race organizations would want the quick release setup safety wired and that just opens up a whole other pandora's box......

  8. Man you guy's are silly :icon_duh: You all know the maple block is only for the rear suspension.

    If you stop and think about it the only way to get maximum performance from the front end without adding a ton of weight is to just remove all of the internals.

    Break ou t the old Black and Decker and drill a 5/16(3/8 if you intended to do any "adventure" riding) hole straight through the inner and outer tubes. Then you just need a carriage bolt and wingnut. the best part about this is you can drill additional holes in the inner tube to allow you to adjust your suspension on the fly depending on road conditions, load and you general riding mood.

  9. I really don't understand why so many of you are measuring static sag, total sag with rider and gear ect.. Before you change the Hyperpro springs. It doesn't matter! Everyone makes it more complicated than it is! The ONLY measurement is what is the chasis ride height from the factory with rider front and rear. After the install of the springs you need to set it to be the same as before. Whether you need move the forks up the tripple clamp 10mm or 30mm it doesn't matter. As long as it's the chasis height is the same as before when it was stock.

    uhmm, No.

  10. Interesting enough, The shop manual for the GSXR says you're suppose to count out so many links and measure pin to pin. If it exceeds such and such measurement you're suppose to replace the chain regardless of condition.

    Sounds like a good way to go... but with the stock sprockets, I was still in the "new" part of the adjustment... I figured that I had gotten my money out of the thing and it only takes one bad link to fuck your whole weekend up, so might as well replace it right?

    Mike

    Absolutly

  11. Yeah but I think Mikey's are incadescent bulbs not LEDS...

    I'd like to be able to mount these in the turn signals, in the mirrors.. but still be able to keep the turn signals.. That way i can keep my headlight steady on and still draw attention ..

    EGAY LINK

    Nope, Mikey's are full blown strobe tubes in addition to the regular bulbs. Don't you remember his light show in 04?

  12. I don't know what the policy is now but yours are for life. IIRC it's on broken tool not worn tools. we use to keep a six foot pipe to make sure they were broken.

    Go to the nearby garage and ask em when the guy comes around.

  13. I've always had bikes where the I've changed the chip (aka EPROM), adjust CO and off I went. What's with PC? Is there a Power Commander for dummies site? Is the PC installed on top of the bike's brain or is it in lue of the bike's brain?

    Any clarification would be appreciated...

    To get back on track...it's wired into your bike computer. I assume it intercepts and changes the coding for fuel and air ratios and stuff like that. Easier to change than a chip I'd assume, just connect it to a PC, download a new fuel/air "map" and go test.

    That being said, for someone with an older model bird with a serial cable style PC, where could he get an extra cable?

    Yup, it goes inline between the brain and harness.

    I have a box of serial to USB cables sitting behind me right now. PM me your address.

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