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Dion

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Posts posted by Dion

  1. Would you believe I made the right choice not to go to Barber, The truck dropped a valve :icon_wtf:

    That would have sucked major ass if it would have happened on the road.

    Tell me about it. At least I have three months to decide what I wanna do. Just do me a favor and have a blast next month :icon_cool:

  2. Your both wrong! :icon_biggrin:

    Sony FD Trinitron KD-36XS955 36" TV

    238lb

    My 40" weighs in at 300lbs.

    Yeah, yeah, "Mines bigger"

    Would you believe I made the right choice not to go to Barber, The truck dropped a valve :icon_wtf:

  3. Maybe I'm missing something, but what problems do people have with air in the system?

    I drain, fill and flush, fill with antifreeze and water. Leaving the cap OFF, the run the motor to make sure the pump circulates the new stuff. Top off as needed. Wipe up any spillage. The system should syphon in any extra fluid it needs from the overflow tank, right?

    No problems so far. :icon_think:

    If you get a large enough bubble it may drop the level and interfere with the siphon action. I check it over the next day or two to be sure.

    Also, don't forget to get the new copper washers for the drain bolts.

  4. What can you expect to gain by changing the time while leaving the rest of the bike stock? If you do gain any power/torque, how much and at what cost in other operating RPM ranges?

    A lot of manufacturers retard the ignition timing in lower gears for drivability/emissions purposes. One of cheapest/easiest ways to gain power in a Suzuki is to install a TRE(timing retard eliminator). Same principle here.

  5. What he said. But as a general practice you should change the fluid. It's subject to heat and degrades regularly.

    On another note, saw your pictures. Nice lookin bike brother. But how did you hook up with such a cute girl? Did you lie to her or somethin? :icon_stickpoke:

  6. Found some info from Monte

    Well Gavin...

    A bit more info (your skill level) would help.

    On a 749 I would go with the new Pilot Power 2CT in a 120/70 front and a 180/55 rear or if you are budget minded... regular Pilot Powers in the same size(s)

    The 2CT (2 compound technology) has 20% softer (more sticky) compound on te outside 10% of the tire. This offers increased grip on smoother tracks.

    This combo will take you up to a mid pack A group pace with no drama, you do not need (nor do we suggest) tha you use warmers, they work very well in damp, wet and dry conditions and they offer excellent "feel".

    I will go so far as to say that the the Pilot Power front is the most forgiving and pridictible front tire I have ever used. Period.

    When the rears "go-off" they do so slowly.

    Added plus... Powers seem nearly immune to heat cycle deterioration.

  7. I've run the medium race powers and believe that the new TC's are mediums with power tread pattern. The best place to ask would be over on the Sportbiketracktime forum. Monte(STTGuy) is the US Michelin guy.

    If I see him this weekend I'll try and remember to ask.

  8. Joe and Dion are correct aboot the geometry...Passenger riding and

    The headshake with luggage is an issue.. I find I can take both hands off the bars as long as I have the throttlemeister on... It is when I hae both hands off and no throttle maintainence...

    Hey, aren't you suppose to be studying anatomy?

  9. I think I read where a change in the geometry of the bike- different forks or higher shim on the back- is sometimes problematic, but that's it.

    Correct. if you raise the rear and or lower the forks it quickens the handling(decreases stability) also, depending on load and suspension your geometry could change also. I don't have a damper on my BB but have the rear shimed and forks dropped to the point where it is up to the edge of tank slapping wothout actually look over.

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