Dion
-
Posts
2,819 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by Dion
-
-
Hate to state the obvious, but did you check to make sure those two bolts are torqued in well enough? It's not a HD but they will loosen up and even come out. Ask me how I know. lol
marty
What he said. And also check out the pivot bolt.
Here's a little tidbit for ya. If you ever start your Honda, put the kickstand up and it dies as soon as you put it in gear, check the pivot bolt.
-
I don't think it was Akropovic but some company out of England that made one.
-
http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?se...g=17254-MAT-000
Now. Where did the pieces of it go?
-
When I had the topbox paint the scanner came up with a Subaru color that is a perfet match for the ti birds. I'll see if I can find the left over.
-
:Edited by Redbird
Good catch Tim, I forgot about the little idiotcyncrasy
-
IIRC the headers will not swap from the carb bird to the FI bird
Yes they will Sarge.
honda change the grouping at the collector when they added FI for more mid-range but the headers will fit.
-
Whoa! you're riding "A" on the Bird??
Well actually no but I will be. Sorry for the confusion. I have a 1997 F3 track bike which I am selling. I will be drastically reducing my track day schedule so any future days will be done on the Bird. She's more than capable
Really........ what are you looking for for the F3?
-
Whoa! you're riding "A" on the Bird??
-
Check the stack vent. Make sure something didn't build a nest on it.
-
My 97-98 manual calls for 39 mm from the top of the top bridge to the circlip groove.
Just checked my manual and it does indeed state 39mm Pg 13-25
Guess I will have to put them back to 39mm from 36mm, am I right in assuming this will quicken the steering like shiming the rear to lift it up :icon_think: Yes, Mine is shimed and I have the front dropped 8mm. For me this is the limit for quickness without being to unstable.
-
Right. But which calipers are you talking about? I only need the rear caliper from the Blackbird. Do you know the sizes of the pistons? (edit: I found the parts pdf and size is listed there) As I mentioned, I'm unsure which of the pots to use for the the setup. I was thinking for linked duties with the front, use the center pot. For the independent rear, use the the remaining two. Will that setup still be too much? Under normal braking, I would not touch the lever on the bar. The only time I would would be to hold the bike at an incline or rear only duties. Side note, I see you're in Rochester NY. Have you been there long? My husband is from there.
The front and rear are the same on the bird. The two outer pots are for normal braking and the centers handle link functions and are slightly smaller than the outers. I mentioned over braking because you said you have problems sometimes now with locking the rear wheel. Using the bird caliper with the two outer pots and larger pad surface area would be about equivilant to putting a second stock caliper on the bike and could make it more prone to lockup.
Borrowing from Brett, Herb and Joe's ideas......
Why not get some custom lines made. Use the rear master to control the front brake with a second line running through a proportioning valve to the rear also. Then run an additional line from a thumb brake to the rear caliper. This would give you a link function for normal braking and the ability to apply more pressure when needed and clean up your right control. Minimal investmant and easy to reverse if you don't like it.
I was born and bred in Rochacha. It would funny if your husband and I knew some of the same people.
Tim, the 250 is like the bird. Another bike that Honda dfoesn't bring to the states anymore.
-
I think you may be setting yourself up for an over braking situation. The calipers are designed for a bike that's 3 times as fast and twice as heavy.
I have a 400 hondamatic I'll trade you for the 250. no clutch to deal with.
-
I have a complete rear rim and a 97/98 front if you're interested. The early rim will work but you need to use the early rotors. I should have a M/C laying around too.
-
Now you don't have to kneel down and damage your nose on the pavement
Did you know Yo is famous in Holland for having his nose on the pavement?
Just ask him why, you'll never believe it......
Sorry Yo, just had to share......
Hmmmmmmmm, wasn't there video relating to this story?
-
TORX
in The Garage
Tools 101 by Warp
You can use an allen wrench to take out any of these tork fasteners if you have a large enough hammer to drive it in the torx head. :icon_doh:
Break as many Craftsman Tools as you wish unless they are power tools or calibrated instruments. :icon_thumbsup:
Craftsman, Snap-On, Mac, and Easco 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drive sockets are not expendable for just any purpose though. Go to Auto Zone and buy a $2.99 Great Neck if you're gonna beat on it....at least more than occasionally.
Doing things that end up breaking 1/2" or bigger tools normally end up with entirely missing knuckles and possibly even stiches. BTDTST!
I'm proud to say that I have not taken any vehicle I have owned, of any type, to the shop for anything other than required inspections, tires, front end alignments, or custom exhaust systems for over 25 years of driving.
A large part of this is that I've never owned a Harley 
. NBL 
Brett
Fuck em all Brett! If you can't fix it fuck it!
-
TORX
in The Garage
Dave with tools! Now there's a scary proposition. Hide your machinary folks!
What Brett said Dave.
OK useless trivia time - Torx were adopted by GM as a more efficient fastener because they are less prone to being stripped like an allen type fastener for higher torque applications. Hence the name "Torx" Also, because of the design they can be removed with a screw driver. This is why you will see things like the ignition switch on Suzuki's secured with "Security" fasteners which is simply a torx style with a center "tit" of metal left in the fastener to prevent the use of a screw driver. The proper tool for these is simply a torx type driver with a center hole in it to accomobate this "tit"
Hey, I told you it was useless trivia
-
Micron has a nice sound and mine had a tab on it for a center stand stop
Tbros are not back until you get on it and have been told it's startling on a fly by. They also have a gizmo for the stand.
Touch base with JRed, he makes a stop piece for 4-2-1 systems.
-
Take the bike to a pro paint supplier. They can scan it with this cool device and probably find the best match for you. When I painted the topcase it turned out my Ti bird is some Subaru color.
-
I just happen to have a Hyperpro for the XX that I never installed. Since I'll be installing the Wilbur I don't need it.
-
I wish it were as easy as switching the RC over. I prefur GP shifting vs conventional.
A buddy did it with an XX shifter and some other bits. I'll get the info from him for ya
No Dion, thats what I'm sayin, both RC's are GP shift and I prefur that over regular. All you have to do with the RC is install a VFR or XX shifter and its done.
I like clicking down to upshift.
Don't miond me eyem alitreit
-
Thanks guys. Talk to me Jeff
I tried it for about 4 laps and like the concept but need to re-educate myself and can't do it switching back and forth.
I wish it were as easy as switching the RC over. I prefur GP shifting vs conventional.A buddy did it with an XX shifter and some other bits. I'll get the info from him for ya
-
Does anyone know offhand if some company makes rearsets for the bird that will accomodate a GP shift pattern?
I did some quick searches but didn't find any thing.
-
Anyway, a small burr, chip or flaw on the fork tube itself will cause that. Replace the seal, and the new one is damaged by the flaw on the fork tube. A close examination of the fork tube in question is in order.
+1
-
You shouldn't need to dremel the breaker. As silly as this sounds, make sure the wires are not stressed in the outward direction. Sometimes heavy gauge wires can push the breaker out.
new owner
in The Garage
Posted
Depends on the tire and how it's constructed.
I run the power race at 29-31F 22-24R and Powers at 29-31F/R at the track.
The idea is to get the tires up to their design temp. If you go to low yes the sidewall will start to collapse. For the street you won't be pushing hard enough to justify dropping them that far.
If I'm slabbing it or loaded I run stock pressures 42/42. Keeps the tires cooler and they last longer.
For fun I run about the same as shovel does but with the powers.
It all depends on your riding conditions, there's no right pressure for all conditions/tire combination.
Basic rule:
For mileage straight up run stock pressures. keeps the tire cooler.
For aggressive street riding drop the pressure. Will heat the tire up and increase grip, to a point. (you need to find the pressure that works with your tires/suspension & style. Drop a couple pounds and ride it, then try no more than a pound at a time checking the condition of your tires after each run.) In the strictest terms, anytime you change brand or style of tire you may need to change your suspension geometry.
In the rain you should run stock because the tire's never going to heat up any way and you want those grooves wide open.
YMMV