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Dion

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Posts posted by Dion

    Cornering Speed

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Dymag 3 spoke carbon fiber wheels with ABE and Galfer wave rotors.... lol oh yeah and the ohlins forks and custom shock

    Guy had the CF wheels on a duc at beaver 2 years ago. He went straight instead instead of making turn 1 and the wheels disintegrated on him in the infield. He was not happy.

    Has no relevance to the question at hand but what the hell.

    Optimum tire pressure?

    in The Garage

    Posted

    ......But when I saw the 19 PSI rear tire pressure, all I could visualize is someone watching the light turn green, then letting out the clutch lever--and going nowhere, because the rear wheel is spinning inside the tire. icon6.gif

    Actually the recommended range for power race tires is 21-24R 30F (the rears have a stiffer sidewall)

    Powers I run@ 29-31F/R Of course I'm checking them with an IR thermometer right of the track and adjusting all day.

    For hard riding on the bird try 32F/34R (this is with powers) You've got to check and tweek.

    ymmv

    Teknic Suit

    in The Sales Floor -- For Sale/Wanted

    Posted

    Not mine but I'll be picking up a bike from this guy Friday. If someone wants me to grabit for them let me know.

    Here are pictures of the Teknic track suit.

    http://www.pricklyweeds.com/teknic/teknic_suit_44_01.JPG

    http://www.pricklyweeds.com/teknic/teknic_suit_44_02.JPG

    I bought it used and then added a few scuffs. ;) There are no tears or split seems. Like the SV it has character. It is a size 44. I'm 5'9" and when I last wore it I was 175 lbs. The suit fit pretty well. My only issue was making sure I didn't try to stand up completely straight and reach over my head at the same time or I would start speaking in a higher pitch if you know what I mean!

    I'll take $200 for it

    Easy way to recess pistons in front brake caliper ??

    in The Garage

    Posted

    I'm too lazy to try c-clamps... I just use a screwdriver and pry on the OLD pads... before I remove them from the caliper to begin with. You could put them back in, and then go that route.

    This^^^^^

    Or remove one caliper and use channel locks carefully on the old pad and body, rinse and repeat. If your pads are that worn you may want to make sure there's no scoring on the rotors.

    BB with 2Bros shotgun

    in The Sales Floor -- For Sale/Wanted

    Posted

    That looks like my old system! :icon_doh: Mine was LOUD! It made my XX sound like an open class racer! I sold it because I'd get a headache if I rode without earplugs... and, to me it just didn't look right - it wasn't symmetrical with the back of the bike and it didn't flow well with XX lines.

    That's cause you're suppose to replace the cans with ones made for the ducati

    gallery_1231_179_950.jpg

    Cleaning the drive chain with Kerosene

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Starting with a clean chain ride it to get it up to temp. Lube with whatever lube/wax you prefer and wipe the excess off. In other words, lube it after the ride. Warm chain flows the lube better and wiping the excess off helps keep shit from sticking to it and reduces splatter on the rear rim and front sprocket area.

    mounting a 170 series rear on the XX

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Nothing firsthand, only a comment.

    I'd suspect it NOT to fall into a turn well. You're stretching the tire to fit it to a 5.5 inch wide rim, which flattens it out...negating the idea that it will "fall in" to a corner.

    that's the one think I thought of right away too was mounting a 170 to an XX rim. You always hear talk of mounting a 190 but never the other way. Maybe I'll measure a 170 & 180 at a local shop and see what widths I come up with on unmounted tires.

    thanks

    That may or may not be of any help, cause the tire shape will change when mounted.

    Like said, rim width will affect tire shape when mounted.

    The tire'll fit but you won't be happy and you'll lose contact patch.

    Use a 6mm shim on the rear shock and the drop the front end 3-4mm. that'll give you what you're looking for.

    Non bike stuff

    in The Sales Floor -- For Sale/Wanted

    Posted

    A guy a work got a really good deal on some AR15 mags.

    The bad news is they're brand new manufacture and he can't keep them.

    If any one in one of the free states wants em he's got 5 for $60.00 to your door. He's just looking to get his money back.

    PM me and I can put you guys together.

    They're D&H

    post-1231-1200513212.jpg

    Bike Knocked Over

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Given the fact that it's the other guys fault and insurance and add to the fact that you can't buy an XX any more I would tell the adjuster to get fucked and that you want it rebuilt or replaced. Oh and just because 2 bros doesn't sell the pipe any more doesn't mean they can't make you a new one. It's the other guys problem and not yours if insurance will only come up with so much. He'll have to make up the difference.

    But that's just my opinion and I'm a cranky fuck. :icon_evilgrin:

    Oil

    in The Garage

    Posted

    honestly a lot of people i know run high milage gtx or penzoil, excuse my lack of spelling prowess when it comes to brand names.

    Honestly, unless a particular brand is sponsoring you or paying contingencies buy what ever is on sale and just change it often.

    brake pad replacement,front and rear

    in The Garage

    Posted

    I also always remove the calipers and remove all deposits on them and the pistons. It is no benefit to just throw in pads when you get a better and more lasting function by doing it correctly.

    Plus one on that man. Magnaflux would be ignorant unless you think there is a crack and in that case unless you have a magnaflux machine, dye penetrant would be the best cost effective way to look for a leak. I do, every 4-5 years pop the pistons our using comressed air adn give it all a loook. It's just maint practice. Heck ya fork oil all the damn time, seals when needed. Steering head as needed as well.

    Some folks treat a motorcycle as an entire system with each component needing service and maint. others barely keep proper air pressure in the tires. It's just a matter of what your levle of commitment to the bike is.

    A turbo and extended swing arm would be cool too! I'd keep the stock one though.

    I've done the buffing/sanding of the disks to help bed in new pads and I've not touched them too and I liked it better not touching the rotors....just insert disks and ride it. Personal preference.

    Here that Joe, you're ingnorant :icon_whistle:

    Oh and the whole buffing sanding thing is to remove pad residue not to help bed them. It's required if you're changing from metalic to organic pads or vice versa. But if you do it everytime you change from HH's to HH's it will take longer to condition the discs.

    Forks n brakes

    in The Garage

    Posted

    OK sounds great but major problem with that. I have a dymag front wheel so if I change the front fork assembly completely I will be adding another oh 1700 to the cost to replace the front wheel and no one will buy just a front wheel that only works for the 97-98 blackbird so no chance selling it.. so I would rather stick with the less expensive, less intrusive way and just slide in some nice cb1300 ohlins forks into my xx tripple clamp and gilles vario bars, and since I already d-linked the brakes put some serious no shit 4pot or 6pot calipers and call it done for not much more than the price of the dymag replacement front wheel!

    Correct me if I'm wrong but can't you just replace the bearings, spacers and rotors as needed?

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