Dion

Shit!!! my bad Chris. Not enough coffee yet. :whip: And to quote you from another thread

69 ft lbs if memory serves me correctly :wink: Good memory

It's 24mm Chain side is 22mm edited to add: Don't forget to torque it properly

Try this... Turn the bars all the way to the right Wait 5-10 min to let the air in the line rise Barely squeeze the clutch lever, just enough to move the piston, keep doing this until no air bubbles up into the master cyl. Now repeat the normal bleed process to make sure there's no air in the slave.

No disrespect perceived Peter, I was a framer and a GC before I started sitting behind a desk. D

The only thing I would add is to check the reservoir for any dirt or debris and clean that out before you flush. Q-tips work well just watch for loose fibers.

Correct me if I'm wrong but this is for one light. The guy on Ebay is selling pairs for 280.

What do you guys think of this? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=2481552374 Possible Group buy? I could feel the guy out(not up :razz: )

You have a PM John

Hi John, got one you can send my way?

I'm toying with the idea and am looking for some opinions, Oops, now I done it :shock: I know some of you have them and would like to know what brand, how you like them, and would you do it again. If anyone has any horror stories I'd like to know also. Thanks guys, D

A thank you goes out to both John at 'Jaws' and John at 'Bikebits' Ordered some parts from Jaws and John brought them back with him while he was over there. Added the Schrooms and frame plugs after work today took all of 45 seconds to install both and they fit like a glove. I really like the way the plugs improve the looks of the bike. These two guys are a couple of the best people that I've ever had the pleasure to deal with.

agreed.

But I would be concerned about the pitting

Easiest way is to just relace the disks. Otherwise, It could be possible to have them ground but you have to make sure they are within service limits afterward. You'll probably end up replacing them anyway. See partsmonsters site for disk prices

Is it one story or two story? If it's one story you may have a truss roof and may not have an issue. Most slab houses take the load around the perimeter. so unless they did something fancy you may be able to do whatever you want Dion Send sketch any time Charles.

Depends on a couple of things, Generally if you look in the basement and see which direction those joists are running the upper floors will run the same way. This means that any interior walls running parallel to the joists are not load bearing unless they are under and opening for something like a stairway. In this case it's most likely supporting the boxed opening and will have to be replaced with a beam or post at the opening to take the load. Any walls running perpendicular to the joists are most likely load bearing. this all depends on the size and span of the joists. Simple example. Your house is 32 feet front to back and this is the direction the joists run. the joists are 2x10 @16inCenter. You probably have a wall running left to right down the middle of the house with maybe an opening or two through it. this is a load bearing wall because the joists are probably only 16ft long and don't run in one piece front to back. You can remove this wall but need to take the load with a beam. If you can post some kind simple sketch with the exsisting layout and what you want to do I can give you an idea of what you're looking at. D

Step away from the chicken!!!! I have young kids here. Here's a (unfortunately shitty) shot of my new mirror extenders. Courtesy of :grin: John's Bike Bits :grin: They took all of 5 minutes to install and now I can see something other than my elbows. It does help to have someone hold the mirror while you're chasing a washer across the garage because you are ham fisted spaz :roll: Right now the color match between the rubber boots and the extenders is a little off but that's mainly due to the fact that the extenders are the only thing clean on the bird right now :oops: All in all one of easiest and quickest safety upgrades to do to the bird I'll post some better pics when John gets back from England with some more bling bling for me. By the way John, I got a hold of John and SRO of the screens at the last show he did but he's going to try and have his supplier rush one for me so with luck it'll be there before you leave. If not I'll have him ship it. Thanks again Bra! Dion

May as well take the opportunity to flush and replace the coolant too

look at the sticky posts up above

Hey John, How big is your suitcase? Can you pick up a couple other bits? Got my extenders yesterday and will mount them today. As per the purchase agreement I post some picks when done Thanx

Just got my mirror extenders today. Fast delivery from a hell of a nice guy. Even if you don't see it on his website ask him anyway. If it's available he can probably help you out. Are you going to NEXXT this year John? I wanna buy you a drink Dion Edited to add picture Here's a picture of the bike with the extenders

Didn't work man

FWIW, I just did mine. Was going with 5.1 as usuall but the owner pointed out some Golden Spectro High Temp Synthetic DOT4. It's suppose to exceed the 5.1 standard to 186C. A little cheaper too. We'll see how it holds up. It's clear when new.

Ok, considering that I just did the front tire, checked the bearings replace the pads, brake fluid and clutch fluid tonight. (A lot of back and forth from the computer to the garage to computer, now which fargin bleeder does what?!!??!!!?.)(whom ever posted "Not automatic..." thanks bra) I think I understand how this system works. The Front brakes on the bird are just a plain old two piston dual caliper system. end of story. The hydraulics of the front don't connect to the rear at all. The rear system is another story. It alone goes to both the front and rear calipers. Here's how it works, Part 1 If you step on the rear brake the system has a line from the master cyl to actuate the center piston of the rear caliper. It also has a second line from the rear master cyl that runs the that block on the front fork then to the center pistons in the front calipers. Part 2 That block on the the front fork also feeds the piston connected to the left caliper. This is a secondary master cyl in the rear hydraulic system. When the front calipers are actived by either the front lever or rear pedal, the left caliper pivots and activates this third master cyl. This then sends fluid through the proportion control valve to the two outside pistons in the rear caliper. In Effect our birds have three seperate braking systems although two are fed by the rear master cyl. So if you want... simply reverse the two lines on the rear caliper. disconnect and cap the line that supplies the front center pistons use your short lines to connect the front system to the front center pistons bypass or remove the PCV Now you a two piston rear or six piston duals front/single piston rear. Or with a series of valves or line locks you can create a system that you could reconfigure on the fly anyway you like. Just some ideas. But if anybody makes money off this idea I want my cut Night yall