sprack
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Posts posted by sprack
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Right. Well, I've figured out the first problem. Wiring mismatch, now I don't get brake lights when I pull or stomp on the brakes.
Edit: Nevermind. I sorted it out.
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Somehow, while following the instructions for the loom fix, I've managed to link the brake switch and the kill switch. If anyone knows which block of wires its (kill switch) in, I'd appreciate a hint; block of 10 green, block of 3 green, block of 2 white, or block of 2 yellow.
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Fork oil was changed less than 100mi ago. Right fork has some oil above the dust seal. To my knowledge the fork seals and bushings have never been replaced. Bought the bike with 30k mi on it.
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Is it just the dust seal or everything down to the oil seal too?
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Jay,
I've still got the right hand switch box from my wrecked 99 you can have.
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Found the problem.
When rewiring the 8 wire R/R for the R1 R/R, dont run the black cable to ground.
Just curious. How hot is the R1 R/R supposed to get? Mine is getting up around 80C.
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The fuse blows as soon as the ignition is turned on. Looking at the electrical diagram the R/R is the most likely culprit. Am I looking in the right direction?
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I'll give that a try tonite. I don't think its the tires, 40mi on new set of M1/Z6's.
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I was going pull the alternator connector and ride it home chargeless to see if the whine still occurs. If you thought it was electrical.
The whine seems dependent on road speed rather than rpm. And pulling in the clutch makes it go away. Transmission or chain related? Any more suggestions? I really appreciate the help.
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Thanks for the letting me know.
Charging voltage on the battery was showing 14.6VDC @ 5000rpm which I thought was within spec. I was measuring the 60.7VAC @ 5000rpm on the white 3-prong connector into the R/R.
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I got the new stator installed sunday and gave it 24hr for the gasket sealant to dry per instructions. Its giving 60.7 VAC, up from 17.3 beforehand. In any case. Now that its together I took it to work and noticed a high pitch whine that linearly follows the speed. Pulling in the clutch makes it go away. Does the stator gear spin independently of the transmission? Suggestions?
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Awesome guys. Thanks again.
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Would this work for both?
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One small caveat for Engine Ice and NPG. Both contain propylene glycol which is usually not allowed on the track. Just keep that in mind if you decide to do a track day on the bike. Otherwise its EI has been great for me in Texas, bikes around 200F idling in traffic.
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What sealant should I use for the grommet here:
And what kind of gasket sealant would you recommend for the alternator cover?
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Nevermind. Found it. It's 40.
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Quick question. Do the Galfer banjo bolts get torqued to the same 25 lb-ft as the stock ones?
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Engine Ice works just as well.
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Could be the torque converter. I don't think any of the recent trimmers are direct drive anymore.
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I went one step up and got the Honda HHT31SLTA. Holy shit thats a great 'trim job'. I did the whole yard at 1/2 power or less.
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Anyone have one of these? It's kinda pricey. I'm more concerned about finding attachments or parts than reliability. With the weed eater I always end up with about 3/4 of a gallon I can't use. I'll premix for the dirtbike, but I'm getting sick of it for yard work.
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Much appreciation.
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I just dropped the forks to put the new new springs/oil in and noticed rust on the uppers around the clamps. Steel wool, scotchbrite, brass brush? What's the preferred way to get it off without ruining the gleam?
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Shorter sidewall = less dome = slower turn-in. Listen to Joe.
Brake/Kill Switch
in The Garage
Posted
Well at least now the real error code is coming up... 9 flashes, IAT sensor.