jrdxx
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Posts posted by jrdxx
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Is it more pronounced while leaned over left or right?
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Wow, was someone talking about refrigerators? I went into a dream after the word "Brembo"....
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You can probably handle it yourself.
I would recommend putting the stock filter back in, and see if the roughness you describe goes away.
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Are you certain the frame alignment didn't get tweaked in your crash? I would recommend checking the steering head to make sure the front wheel footprint is aligned with the rear wheel.
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The side stand switch might be easier to troubleshoot first.
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Vibes
in The Garage
You say the vibration occurs between 3K and 5K, but don't mention if it occurs at those rpm in any gear, or if it's particularly prevalent in a particular gear at that rpm range. The vibration may be road speed related, so you need to rule out the possibility of tire imbalance.
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No idea. But keep in mind you're actually talking about two different phenomena, and may be attempting to make a link where in fact there may be none. I would say just ride the bike, and as long as the temp is in the normal range, don't worry about it. If the bike seriously shows signs of overheating, don't bother changing the oil first. Check the cooling system.
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You're not in trouble. Insert the key just enough to engage the the slotted head of the tensioner, and turn clockwise about five complete revolutions. Use the X-shaped indentations in the top of the tensioner body to lock the tensioner in place using the key.
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You've already made your first oil change since delivery, so you're fine to go to synthetic oil.
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Shotgun continuity checks can be misleading; make sure you're reading directly point-to-point, and not through a bulb filament, for instance, which can lead you down a wrong path. I'd start with brand new bulbs at all turn signal locations (in case there might be a bulb with a broken filament making intermittent contact). Next I would check the mini connector between the turn signal switch and the signals. The turn signal switch itself might be bad. Try turning the ignition switch on, then switching either turn signal, and gently wiggling the turn signal switch lever.
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I carry a plug kit on my bike only so I can ride the bike home or get it to a shop to replace the tire, so I won't be stranded on the road. That's as far as I will trust a plugged motorcycle tire. It's just not worth the risk, in my opinion.
I also think the D208 is too soft a compound for general use. It would be excellent for a track day.
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And I have to apologize for putting ideas in your head about the countershaft. It is a possibility, though any trouble would probably have already appeared in the form of at worst a catastrophic failure, or at least, an oil leak from behind the front sprocket. Since none of this applies, put your mind at ease. I think your sprockets are most likely OK. The chain may have stretched, and may be contributing to the noise. You can even remove the chain and measure the length to accurately gauge the stretch if you want. If you can eliminate the chain as the origin, the fix may be as simple (and cheap) as spacing the centerstand down slightly as described above.
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I think you may have correctly diagnosed your problem in your first paragraph, where you noted the noise while wheeling the bike around in your garage. My suspicion is that the chain is dragging on the centerstand, and I think the period of riding with the chain too tight has contributed to premature chain wear. Motorcycle chains generally tend not to wear evenly, and a chain adjusted with too little slack will prematurely wear unevenly as well. What I would do is this: put the bike on the centerstand, and (with the engine off, and the transmission in neutral) spin the rear wheel slowly over several rotations, while watching the sag of the chain below the swingarm. If the sag seems to remain fairly constant, then I'm full of BS. If the sag seems to vary by a considerable amount, then the chain has been stretched, and will have to be replaced. The problem here is where to set the chain slack adjustment. If you set the slack at the "loose" point, the chain will be too tight, and will accelerate the wear. If you set the slack at the "tight" point, the chain will actually be too loose at some point, and will clatter against the centerstand, or swingarm, or possibly derail from the sprocket. If you determine the chain to be the problem, you may or may not have to replace a sprocket; with 10K kilometers, I suspect they may be okay. Be thankful you didn't create more problems at the output shaft bearing, keep up with the regular lubrication, and run the new chain at the loose end of the adjustment tolerance (remember, it's a SLACK adjustment, not a TENSION adjustment).
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I'm due for a new set; I might try them out.
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Look under "Important/Useful Threads" and see if it's any help.
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That may be a possibility. Unplug the connector from the r/r, and set the meter to read ohms. The meter may actually say "ohms" on it, or have a symbol of the Greek letter omega, which looks like a horseshoe with the open end facing down. Read between each yellow wire to the others, looking for as low a resistance measurement as possible. Any high resistance or open measurement is bad news for the stator. Also read between each yellow wire and ground (you can go to the battery negative terminal if you want). Ideally you do NOT want to read any resistance in these measurements; if you do, it means the stator is shorting to ground. Once again, bad news for the stator. Do NOT try to measure resistance on a live circuit, or while the engine is running. For measuring voltage, use the scale marked VDC, or something similar.
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Don't dick with the battery positive lead while the engine is running.
First, make sure you have a good charge on the battery. Turn the headlight on for just a second to bleed off any top charge, and measure across the battery terminals (engine off). Look for 13.0 to 13.2 volts. If the voltage is too low, charge or replace the battery before doing anything else.
Look near the regulator/rectifier assembly under the seat and find the connector with three yellow wires on one connector half. Unplug this connector, and with the engine off, measure resistance between these three yellow wires (three measurements); you should read a low resistance (0.1 to 1.0 ohm). An open means a leg of the stator has opened, and the stator will have to be replaced. Measure between each yellow wire and ground; you should read an open (infinite resistance). A short or low resistance means the stator has shorted out and will have to be replaced.
If these measurements are good, then the charging system is okay, and you need to look at the regulator/rectifier. Measure voltage across the battery (with both battery leads connected...) and the engine running at about 5000 rpm, and the headlight high beam on. You should measure about 15.5 VDC. Too low or high, and the regulator/rectifier is suspect. Check for loose or corroded connections around the r/r, and check your ground connections. Hope this helps.
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LBS and ABS are slightly different routes toward the end of affording a rider more control in real-world, street/road riding conditions. In a racetrack environment unlinked systems might be more desirable, but for riding on public roads, I'll take the ABS or LBS system every time.
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"I COULDN'T have overcooked the entrance into that last turn; must be the linked brakes' fault. Target fixation? Me? No way...."
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And a damn fine job he's doin', too.
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It's not clear to me in your post whether or not you used a vacuum type bleeder, or just tried to pump fresh fluid through. If not, my advice would be to buy one at an auto parts store; it's entirely worth the cost. Pull fresh fluid through until it's clear and free of air, and if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
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I agree. Sounds like the fuel tank air vent tube is pinched or blocked. Try this: Fill the tank as full as possible, and go ride. If the vent is the problem, the stalling anomaly should appear rather soon (the less air space in the tank to begin with, the sooner you'll start pulling a vacuum). When it does, park the bike and open the filler cap SLOWLY, with an ear as close as possible to the filler cap. If you hear a sound like air being sucked into the tank, the vent line is the problem. Only, now you have the additional problem of getting back home and siphoning the fuel out of the tank so you can raise it up and unkink the vent tube.
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Oh, I see. You took the lifter apart. Did you count the number of turns it unwound when you took it apart?
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With the key removed, the spring in the tensioner lifter allows the piston in the lifter to fully extend (or to extend until it contacts something like the cam tensioner in the engine). Functionally it doesn't "preload" the cam chain, it just eliminates the slack. Use the key to rewind the piston into the lifter body, install the lifter, and remove the key. This can't get much simpler.
BIKE SLUGISH AFTER SLIP-ON INSTALL??????
in The Garage
Posted
I have a '99 49-state bird with D&D C/F slip-ons and a K&N filter. It's not uncommon for any unrestricted engine to lose some performance just off idle in exchange for a small gain at the other end of the rpm range. If you don't like the change, simply put the stock mufflers back on. Check your headpipes where they insert into the mufflers to make sure they aren't kinked or pulled out of round.