jrdxx
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Posts posted by jrdxx
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And you probably won't find a single wrench that will adequately cover the ranges you desire. I have four torque wrenches, and am looking to add a couple more.
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Last problem first:
1)Try reinstalling the stock air cleaner and running the bike for awhile. If the surge disappears or diminishes, rejetting the carbs may be required in order to run the K&N filter
2)From your description the starter might be the source of the starting problem, but I would recommend keeping the troubleshooting procedure simple, and try to eliminate one possibility at a time until the source is revealed.
3)Don't use a pressure washer to wash the bike. You'll force water into places it ordinarily might not reach, and create headaches much like the one you're experiencing.
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It may be weather related; it may only be coincidence. My swag is that the stator is on it's way out.
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Could this be a manifestation of the dreaded wiring loom malfunction?
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How much adjustment do you have left on the chain? If you still have adjustment left, I wouldn't bother with the sprocket, just keep the chain oiled and adjusted. If I absolutely, positively, had to change the front sprocket, I'd change the chain out as well. The rear sprocket will probably be good for the life of one more chain as the load is distributed over a larger area (more teeth).
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Glad we were able to help, mate.
This isn't a common failure mode on the Blackbird, but has happened to me and a couple others on this forum-hence the familiarity.
Ride safe. And while you're out, give a nod to Strawberry Fields for me.
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Verified.
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Don't despair; I still suspect the starter switch. The headlight relay and dimmer switch are part of the high beam circuit path; the low beam is fed from the fuse with only the starter switch in it's path. Trace the harness from the right side switchset to a coupling in front of the instrument panel (remove the windscreen for better access). disconnect the coupling and use an ohmmeter to probe for continuity between two wires; the Black/Red wire, and the Blue/White wire. When you press the starter switch, the continuity should disappear, under normal circumstances. If you read an open all the time, the switch is bad.
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I had a fuel pressure regulator fail on a Bronco years ago, though the failure mode was to fail to regulate the fuel at all, causing the cylinders to hydraulic lock. If a regulator could fail in a way that would not let any flow at all past the regulator, that might be a possibility. Good luck.
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The engine start switch also has a set of normally closed contacts supplying power to the headlights. When the starter button is pressed, these contacts open, interrupting power to both headlights and diverting available power to the starter. That is the configuration here in the states, and I admit there might be differences in UK/Euro spec bikes. As a troubleshooting step, I would add this:
1) Turn the ignition switch to ON (it's not necessary to start the bike).
2) Gently wiggle the starter button, without engaging the starter. If the headlights work intermittently, the switch is defective.
This failure mode has appeared on a handful of bikes here in the states, and may play a factor in your troubles. You may be able to make a repair to the switchset, but I opted to replace it in it's entirety. The part is not prohibitively expensive (available at Roy Ayers and other sites), and is an easy repair.
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I generally don't like to swap parts around as a troubleshooting method, but I don't believe the coil has been eliminated as a failure mode. Do like mentioned above, and swap the coils, and see if the misfiring cylinders moves to the 1-4 positions.
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If the starter button does prove to be the culprit, you'll have to replace the entire switchset. I can't remember exactly what mine cost; I ordered my replacement from Ron Ayers(?). The price seemed reasonable. The R&R was straightforward, with two caveats: one, you'll have to take the windscreen off to access the wire bundle directly in front of the gauges, and two, you"ll need some slack in the throttle cable linkage, which I got by raising the gas tank and disconnecting the linkage at the throttle bodies.
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Try gently wiggling the starter button. Serious.
The switch has an integrated headlight interrupt that kills the headlights when you start the bike, saving the battery's juice for the starter motor.
My bike is a '99 as well.
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I have used the Pilot Roads on my BMW, and intend to use the Roads on the Blackbird next. No experience with the Avons, so I can't be objective, but I but I really am partial to the Michelins.
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My hunch is the interference is radiated from the detector and being detected by the autocom, rather than being distributed by the power circuit, so RF chokes in the power circuit would have no effect.
The detector is probably compliant with FCC Part 15, which states that the device (1)"may not cause harmful interference", and that the device (2)"must accept any interference received, including any interference which may cause undesired operation." Welcome to Catch-22.
Your most practical option may be to physically separate the autocom and the detector as much as possible. The RF generated is on the order of microvolts, and several inches of separation may make a considerable difference. If this isn't practical, then I'd recommend you try a different brand of detector.
The best way to distribute power is directly from the battery, preferably through a switched relay and a dedicated fuse/circuit breaker, as previously described.
73 de Jim, kc4ncr
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I would just stick with the original plugs. That's what I used when I replaced the plugs on my '99 last winter. Platinum and Iridium are both catalytic elements in chemical reactions; one may be slightly more durable than the other, but I think for this application the margin may be small. Just run regular unleaded, and avoid the urge to use some gas additive that may attack the coating on the plug electrodes, and don't worry about it.
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That was the way I used to do it, until I broke down and bought a torque wrench....
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I like the Michelin Pilot Sport or Pilot Road.
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Checked your fuses yet? A blown fuse will offer a clue to the source of the problem.
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Definitely post pictures when you're finished.
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Don't bum out. Just keep an eye on your inflation pressures, and keep us posted on their progress.
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Before you splurge on a new r/r, check the stator to make sure all three legs are good.
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The battery might also be due for replacement.
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My '99 with the analog gauge generally runs at the bottom third of the gauge in all ambient temperature conditions experienced here in FL, unless I'm stopped in traffic. Then it runs at the upper third of the gauge, and the fan kicks in and the temperature stabilizes, and when I start moving again and flow some air through the radiator, the temperature comes right back down again. As long as the fan is able to manage the excess heat when stopped in traffic, I don't worry about it.
Stripped some threads
in The Garage
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Since you say that the end of the bolt is stripped, then only the starter thread in the frame is damaged as well. I would recommend chasing the threads in the frame with a 6mm bottom tap. Try an auto parts store, as metric sizes are common in auto applications. You can reuse the damaged bolt temporarily until you get a replacement. File the damaged thread down, and use some kind of lube when you reinstall it. When you reinstall the bolt, turn it counterclockwise until you can feel the starter threads lapping over each other, then tighten carefully, and don't overtorque it.