Crusty
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Posts posted by Crusty
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Most likely EFI will fetch a bit more than carb. I've never seen a XX in Canada for $4000 that wasn't smashed.
Thinking about $5500 would be a starting point... I've seen them go for quite a bit more too, economy will effect the price more than anything. Does the area it is being sold in have alot of unemployment....
He is in Barrie, Ontario, but Toronto is close by... Thanks for the feed back, he's posted an add and started at $5,500.00cdn
* employment is kinda lousy all over at the moment.
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Elliot (et al) would a injected CBR be worth more than a carbed one even if they were a year apart?
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4000 max if the body is super clean and no scratches / dings or rash at all.
97 / 98 go for 3000, clean.
dealer across the street had a blue one in very good condition 3999.00
I was going to say less but the corbin is worth about 200 give or take. and 40k is good.
they are harder to find but not considered a desirable motorcycle for some strange reason.
if there is any scratches at all even a tipover then goes down to 3500
good luck.
Thanks Elliot ..
I will tell him what to expect then, the bike is immaculate, he has also added Pazzo levers and a rear hugger. I have pics if you think I should post them.(?)
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I talked with a buddy today who has decided to sell his 1999 CBR 1100xx I was posting to try and get a idea of what the bike is 'worth' these days. It has about 40K or 25 thousand miles on it. Has been very well taken care of. Is blue and has braided lines/corbin Gunfighter seat/Scott oiler/hugger/other than that it is stock.
It is becoming harder and harder to try and find them in Canada.
Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks, James
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It seems that newer windows are going to plastic/composite spacers because they transfer less heat than metal spacers which increases the energy rating of the window assembly.
Thanks for the feed back!
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Nice work Todd. As for the Stainless steel..try using Lemon Pledge furniture polish, then a clean soft cloth.
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James when I replace windows its sometimes hard to get an exact replacement. The original manufacture does not sell panes in most cases, unless you want to spend big bucks to have them make you one. A local window guy will be hard pressed to get the right materials/colors to get an exact match for a replacement window.
Before you had him make it you should have specified exactly that you want, a "matching" window. He may have been able to do it, he might not have!
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I have not been able to get an "exact match" on any window replacements....................
Ok. Fantastic info for me. Thanks again, thats all I needed to know. I was told getting a matching window as a replacement, is not common unless by the original supplier/mfg. So as long as the window is in and replaced, I guess that's all the matters.
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I started a thread in the Pub about a rant, the window was replaced but I have questions regarding the spacer used in thermopane windows. The old windows seem to have a metal center, and the replacement window seems to have a plastic one. Not apparent from the photos that are attached, the new replacement plastic is black and looks the shits compared to the metal on the original window.
I was trying to find out of the standard centers are all black or metal, or are there options to be had as far as the centers go,when ordering new windows depending on the price etc.?
http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=63786
Go to post number 8 in the thread
TIA
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Well, anyone that's into 'wet & rubber'
can't be all that bad! -
Fix the leak in your liner???
Liner? :icon_shifty: The pond has a LINER
I gotta find a hole in my LINER? :icon_wall: Yes, most contractors lay down a 45 mil EPDM liner under the pond, to keep the water from running away. I develop pond estimating software as one of my side businesses.
No, I was joshing ya.. I understand the need for a liner, I have one it seems to be fine, just the little valve thing was the issue. Water level is fine for a day or two, then it shows a drop in the level a bit. (evaporation)
I found a new valve, just have to install it.
The software sounds interesting. Hope you do well with it.
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Fix the leak in your liner???
Liner? :icon_shifty: The pond has a LINER
I gotta find a hole in my LINER? :icon_wall: Found the valve in question...
Never even bothered going to the local Hardware store, figured there was no way they would have one, or, even know what it was... turns out they use them for the water levels on the water for live stock.
Who woulda thunk it...
Edit. Offendning picture removed
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Fucking bastards .... A $10.00 part, and you have to go through the email address, the home address, the phone number, the password, create an account, fill out the shipping address... then they charge you $35.00 for shipping, (via UPS) who's going to charge me some fucked up 'brokerage fee' the thing is going to be $80.00 fucking dollars.
Solution #1: Don't live in Canada.
Solution #2:
Thanks, the help is appreciated...
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Yep, as Blackhawkxx says. See if there's a little arm or lever with a hole for a float that would actuate it
There was no arm or anything on mine either. If I remember right, you can take them apart to maybe fix it.
That seems to be an option now ... Thanks.
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Fucking bastards .... A $10.00 part, and you have to go through the email address, the home address, the phone number, the password, create an account, fill out the shipping address... then they charge you $35.00 for shipping, (via UPS) who's going to charge me some fucked up 'brokerage fee' the thing is going to be $80.00 fucking dollars.
Thanks for fucking nothing..
according to the reviews they are available at Ace Hardwareor just order one online for the $10.00 with free shipping
I checked the Ace Hardware site, and they don't have them listed.
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No, there is no arm/rod/siphon I have been to Lowes/Homedepot/Rona and three plumbing shops, none of them know what it is used for. I use it for the pond water level, but can not find where to buy a new one. :icon_wall:
Get the name stamped on the case and post it. I see an inlet hose, diaphram case, tension control knob and outlet port, correct?
I believe so. I installed the whole -filter-watertank-UV light-pump system, and have the thing running. Its cleaning up the pond nicely, but won't maintain the water level automatically.
The pictures were taken last summer when it was being set up by the then owner. I set if all up, and see that the 'valve' is broken as it spits water out from all over. I was hoping to find somone that knew what the name of the 'valve' was so I could just by it, and when I have shut the pond down and replace it, I can minimize the down time.
Its looking like I will just have to shut it all down and pull the valve off ...
It's a Delta or Fill Pro toilet fill valve. You can pick one up at your local Ace Hardware their stock # 43668 should cost around $16.http://www.buzzillions.com/dz_902311_fillp...l_valve_reviews
HA!! Thats it. Now I have to find a store here.
Thanks!!!!
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No, there is no arm/rod/siphon I have been to Lowes/Homedepot/Rona and three plumbing shops, none of them know what it is used for. I use it for the pond water level, but can not find where to buy a new one. :icon_wall:
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After I hooked up all the pond stuff for this year, I got everything settled and then, the water level would not maintain its self. The previous owner invented all this stuff to do this, and it worked great last year when we moved in(all ready running)
This valve (see picture) is broken and I cannot find anyone who knows what it is, what it is called, or where to get one. Does anyone here have an idea about this?
Thanks, James
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Gave up did ya?
:icon_needpics:
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......waiting........
I know, I know. Can you believe how slow I am? Still muddin' & sanding, sorry. However the drywall in the bathroom is done. The wife primed it last night. She'll likely paint it sometime this week. Then I'll tile the floor and shower.
I'm living vicariously through your post ... we moved without finishing the basement in the old house, June of last summer we were in anew place, and it's c r y i n g out for a finished basement!!
I need some motivation.
Take your time ... I'll keep checking back..
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It's been almost 2 weeks.........done yet?
I wish. I'm iterating through the mudding/sanding/mudding/sanding/mudding/sanding phase. 15+ gallons of mud so far. Maybe the walls will be ready for primer this weekend. BTW, I'll have the right arm of Hercules before this project is over.
I'd post some more photos, but despite all my mudding and sanding, there isn't much visible progress. Next week I'll prime/paint the walls and lay some tile (hopefully). That should be enough visible progress to justify more photos.
......waiting........
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Thanks for the feed back folks!
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Not all fitting types use a band and properly installed it is just as, if not more, reliable than copper and there way less fittings buried in the walls so less chance for concealed leaks. I'd have no problem using PEX.
My neighbor is a plumber by trade, and he agrees with the above statement.. FWIW
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Is the area in the wall small enough that you could use expanding foam insulation to fill the void? What is the exterior surface at the breach?
Maybe... I don't know the properties of the foam stuff, will look into it though, thanks. The exterior surface is painted drywall(Inside of bedroom) followed by 6mm poly(inside-behind drywall) then, pink insulation. Then plywood, with tarpaper, then outside brick.
The only thing he did NOT breach, was the brick.
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Thanks for the feed back folks. I recently talked to a contractor here, and he said the same thing about breaching the vapor barrier. Its 6mm poly and with the extreme cold we get in these parts, the concentration of warm and cold air WILL draw moisture to the broken part of the barrier. Its h o w much that is in question. If that is enough to concern me because its difficult to determine, then a repair s h o u l d be made to be sure.
Fricken hack installers.
Texas Garages
in The Garage
Posted
Man I could spend a little bit of cash here!
http://www.texasgarages.com/