MileHi

Tensorlight...

Here's a description of the guy who can... "Faster than a speeding bullet! More powerful that a locomotive! Able to leap tall buildings at a single bound!" "Look! Up in the sky!" "It's a bird!" "It's a plane!" "It's - SUPERMAN!" "Yes, it's Superman - strange visitor from another planet who came to Earth with powers and abilities far beyond those of mortal men. Superman! Who can change the course of mighty rivers, bend steel in his bare hands, and who, disguised as Clark Kent, mild-mannered reporter for a great metropolitan newspaper, fights a never-ending battle for Truth, Justice, and the American Way!"

I'd really like to know how the other guy (who sells competing HID products... :scratchhead: ) can identify the revision level from an image on the internet... Especially when every freakin' McCulloch kit I've seen images of LOOK THE SAME... There's no rev level or other markings on the ballast/igniter/bulbs that indicate a version/gen/rev level... Is he the Great Carnac or what? Do a search... All I've been able to find is problems due to incorrect wiring and an occasional mention of the mysterious Gen V, but no one seems to know how to identify it. Earlier failures were from '03 and I believe that McCulloch was still being "produced" in the US back then before the DOT started to put the kebash on aftermarket HID kits. I would think that IF the Gen III was NFG and that it looks like that was almost 3 years ago, that the "bad" systems should be purged by now and that there would be a lot of crap on the internet about them... If anyone can find anything different, then I'm open to flaming on my search skills. :nana: I think the guy just wants you to buy from him... So that HE gets the profit... YMMV

Keep us posted... I'm gonna go that route or the Stradas front 'n rear...

I'll agree with TAP... I'm not a real big fan of the Pilot Roads. I was real happy with the Z6's Better feel than the PRs, grip and turn in was better... But they won't wear as long. Once my PRs are in need of replacing, I'm gonna try the new Pirelli Diablo Stradas. I hear that they are like the Z6 but with a dual compound and the center is s'posed to be harder for better wear(?).

That stuff is pretty neat, huh! After reading the thread about the clutch lever, I went out and cleaned/lubed it and the brake lever. The differnce is amazing... BTW, DuPont also has the silcon and white grease sprays with Teflon too. I used the whitegreas on the levers' brass bushings.

Yeah, probably GB vs. HK... And since they're made in HK... Plus selling large quantities with very little effort. Kinda like a little Walmart of the HID world.

The chain should come with a little packet of KY... Err... grease for the master link. If/when I do clean the chain, I use kerosene when it's really filty or a rag sprayed with WD-40 to wipe off the light dirt. Since I've been using the Pro-oiler I don't really have that problem.

Why recreate the wheel... Dale's method... http://www.superblackbird.com/light_aim.cfm

That works fine with the digital dash... But for those of us with the (larger) analog dash, it's not as easy... Less open space to work with.

I used the sticky tape pads that came with the kit and put the ballasts on the flat part od the intake tracts up in the cone almost up against the headlight assembly. I ran and coiled the cables and exciters up under the intrument pod... Concealed by the covers.

I'll give ya a hint... Page 4.

Well, I just love the hell outta my Scorpion and think enough of them, that I'm gonna get one for my daughter since she's outgrowing her current helmet. That's the thing about venting... Ya want air... Gonna get some noise... Want quiet... Gonna sweat like a f'n pig... Ear plugs work for me!

I just tried the PVC glue with my heated grips... So far so good...

The modulator won't live in harmony with the HID... I have noticed that with the HID lo beam that I am much more conspicuous. I've aimed my lights per Warchild's instructions and I don't have people flashing their brights at me... But they DO see me coming and know that I'm behind them in traffic.

Your grip is cupped! :eyebrows: I used the PVC glue today when I finally got around to installing the Dual Star heated grips... Works great.

Maybe tweak the clips some??? My bulbs fit nice and snug. Bu I am using the 4300°K bulbs from another kit so there is a bit of a difference in the base of the HID bulbs. The ones we got with the group buy have a notch on the top and bottom of the base. Where my other bulbs only have the one notch like the bulb plug.

Whoo Hoo... FedEx just delivered mine!!! :naughtydance:

My favorite is a coat hanger with a small tie wrap on it. kinda like this... _______+___________________________] The plus sign is the tie wrap. take the hooked end and insert it into either the axle or the swingarm. Use the tie wrap to mark the distance and then move it to the other side of the bike...

Even easier with the PAIR removed...

Anyone get an acknowledgment of thier purchase yet???

It would be nice to leave the lights off at startup. The way it's setup on U.S. bikes the lights come on when you turn the key on, then go off when you thumb the starter, then come on again when the bike fires and you release the starter. Two start up cycles for the bulb everytime you start the bike, which I'm told isn't good for bulb life. Being able to just fire up the lights once after the bike is running would be a big plus, IMO. Good point... I didn't even think about the on - off - on cycle of the lights when starting...

Did ya look at the fiche??? If you don't remove the seal... The filter won't fit. Did you remove the seal?

Or does it not drop down into the lower half of the airbox??? If memory serves me right, I believe that you have to remove the seal for the stock air cleaner... Look at part # 4 in the link below... http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/200_0351/air...580&parent=5570

Just a couple of silly questions/comments on the Euro switchs and HIDs... If you install HIDs in both the lo and hi beams... Do you really want to "flash" the hi beam? It does take a few seconds for the bulb to fire up and get near the right output/temp (in this case F or C not K)... I've found that the HID lo beam just in itself is enough to get most cagers attention when approaching from behind. And is the on/off switch that important to you? On my '99 'Bird the headlights are temporarily cut out when I hit the started switch... Rendering the need for a on/off switch redundant at best. I'm not trying to be a smart ass, but I'm curious about your need.