MileHi
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Posts posted by MileHi
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These guys have been great for me... Autolumination Excellent bulbs and the customer service is stellar. Over the years I've had one or two failures and they took care of it quickly.
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Bumpity bump...
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bumpage...
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How much for a little pussy?
There are days that I'd pay to be rid of that little fucker!
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I finally went through my garage and have the following items for sale...
Corbin G&L - $225 shipped - Sold
EBC HH pads (all three sets) - $75 shipped - Sold
Steering Stem tool - $50 shipped - Sold
Honda '99 - '01 Service Manual & Haynes manual - $35 shipped - Sold
Galfer SS Front Brake lines & Clutch line - $125 shipped Sold
PCII ('99-'01) - $200 shipped Sold
Secdem Screen - $50 shipped
PM me if you're interested in any of my stuff and/or if you want more pics. I prefere checks or M.O.s... I won't use PayPal after the screwing they gave me a while back...
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pm sent
Ditto...
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I have one that was on my '99 XX. I think that it's the same one used on your '01. Check with Dynojet. If it is I'm sure we can work a deal.
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12,000 miles on mine with very little stretch. I'm happy wit mine.
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The bulb's external electrodes on my McCulloch's were forced on top by the indexing tabs on the bulb bases.
+1...
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University Motors (www.umotorsfargo.com) on the stator. You will NOT find anybody who will sell you one cheaper. I bought mine for nearly half the price of the local Honda shop and a good bit less than Ron Ayers.
On the regulator, I have an R1 unit but have not installed it yet. My original one lasted almost 6 years and I was in a bind, so I got a Honda one from another board member. But when the Honda one takes a dump (which it will) the R1 one will go on. University Motors probably has the best price on that unit as well, but I haven't checked.
I just did the stator/regulator thing... University Motors was just under 2 bills for the Honda stator and the R1 regulator. Get Mike (bartonmd) to build you a pigtail and you won't have to cut/butcher any connectors.
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Well, I finally got around to taking a photo of the stator... I THINK it got a little toasty!!!
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Ok, so I'm back with more charging issues. I've finally had enough, and I'm going to be replacing my R/R. But as you can see from the pic, it's not the standard R/R that some 99/00 birds have, that's why I was so hesitant to replace it. But finally, I'm not getting any charge to the battery, even though the Stator is putting out about 50VAC at 5K rpm.
Ok, so take a look at this R/R and tell me I'm not crazy. Everybody else that's posted pics only has one plug, why does mine have two?
And more importantly, if I were to go get the 99 R1 R/R and the pigtail from Mike (bartonmd), how the hell would I tell him to wire it? Is that even an option for me?
Jay
It looks just like a '99 - '00 R/R to me. Mine has two connectors too. One (three yellow) goes to the Stator and the other goes into the wiring harness. The ones you see with one connector are either a '97 - '98 R/R or the Yamaha replacement that many of us are using. Go see the R/R harness thread in the Sales section... Lots of pics.
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Sadly... I don't know what my own sense of feel is supposed to be... I was hoping to eliminate my 45mph wobble.. which I think was caused by it being too loose...
Oh well, as long as I have the tool, it's not horrible to adjust stuff, so I'll just see how it works out.
Rich,
When i did mine I snugged it down to 18 Ft Lbs... Just make sure that once done, that the forks can be turned w/o a lot of resistance. I'm happy to be of service with the ol' tool. Keep it around for a few days after you adjust steering. That way if you need to re-torque or need to loosen it up, you'll have the tool to do it with.
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I did some investigation of this a while back. From the dead regulators I've checked out the common issue is a shorting of the stator outputs. The stator most likely is never at fault, it only fails because of the R/R.
Don't use a R/R that was associated with a bad stator, but the opposite is not true. A stator that looks ok and measures the same voltage on all three phases is going to be ok.
I was kinda leaning that way too... I dremel'd the short side so the second bolt at least catches the side of the Yamaha R/R...
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Stator replaced... The old unit was uniformly and completely cooked. It was a dark, dark brown to black where the three leads come out. Since I'm waiting for Mike's Yamaha plug/harness, I hooked up the original R/R and performed all the tests again.
It seems that my OEM R/R is still good.
So that begs the question... Do I replace it anyway ( and keep the OEM uint as a spare) or do I continue using the OEM unit (keeping the Yamaha unit as a spare)? Surprisingly the Yammie R/R is MUCH smaller than the OEM and I'll only be able to use one bolt to mount it. I'm wondering if the '99 R/R isn't the same as the later models... It's quite big with cooling fins on both sides. Once I find where my daughter has put my camera, I'll take some pictures of the stator and both R/R's.
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Whoo Hoo!!! The new stator and regulator are here!!! Man, University Motors is fast! Coffee, then stator.
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And weren't the 205's replaced with the 220s??? If so, then the 205s would be rather old. The 205 was probably my LEAST favorite of the Dunlops... And Dunlop is not my favorite brand.
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It looks like this and requires a 9 volt battery...
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I'll add my two cents... They really understand the concepts of customer service!!! My local Meridian store ALWAYS treats me well whether I'm buying big ticket items like tires and whatnot or if I'm just in to buy a quart of oil. I also had the opportunity to deal with the Springfield OR store. They found and held a Diablo Strada for me and were quick about getting it mounted 'n balanced before the skys opened up on me.
Highly recommended!
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+1 On the MRA Vario. I'm 5'8" and on my 2003 Bird with the stock screen the air beat the crap out of my head. Now I can have it smooth or if I do something stupid I can adjust the Vario to smack me around to "teach me a lession". :icon_wall:
+2 on the MRA Vario... Mine was one of those that XX4me mentioned...
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I seem to remember (recently) reading... No it was a discussion with Forrest (XX4me), that the Honda S2000 or 'Busa injectors will work. Maybe he'll pop in and correct me if I'm wrong.
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that's only when the R/R isn't plugged in... If you stick meter probes into the back side of the connector when the R/R is plugged in, you get signifigantly lower voltages, because it's under load, not just spinning freely...
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Mike
You are right, 50 VAC is the unloaded voltage, thanks for pointing this out :-)
Well, that's a mote (at least for me) point... Itlooks like the stator is not putting out the voltage. I ordered a stator and R1 regulator from University Motors. I should get it by the end of the month.
Mike, I'll contact you about the R1 plug. I might as well have you make it with the dual green and red leads. That way all the connectors on the stock harness will be used just like the OEM.
Thanks for the help guys... Now I sit here and wait.
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I cut this from an old thread of Mike's (bartonmd), this is what I experienced this last week...
I'm resurrecting this thread because I experienced the EXACT same symptoms this last week at HookersXX '07. Just to validate Mike's symptoms the fluctuations would occur randomly. I would be cruising at a steady throttle and the voltage would drop down to 12.5 or less and the jump up to 13.9 stay there for a while and slowly climb up to 14.3 to 14.9 and occasionally hit 15.0 to 15.3. At one point (in stop 'n go traffic) it dropped down to about 11.6.
Now that I've performed all the checks...
Battery Voltage 13.6 (after being charged) and 13.04 (after running tests with the stator disconnected). The battery is holding it's voltage and I can see some recovery after it rests.
Stator Continuity between the yellow wires is between .2 to .4
Current leak (Haynes manual max acceptable is .2) is 0.0. No appreciable leak
Battery Charge line (Haynes test between r/w wire and ground) 13.04 (ie. battery voltage).
Charging at 5k rpm... First run it was around 13.8 V. Second run it was bouncing between 13.12 and 13.8
Voltage output from stator (between any two yellow wires) averaged between 12.x and 13.x
Other than the fluctuating voltage at 5k all the tests indicate a nominal charging system, yet on my trip it was giving me fits! The voltage would drop drastically at stop lights and sometimes the bike would die or run rough until the RPMs went up.
So, the stator, battery and (even the) regulator appear to be fine... All the connectors are clean and there's no burning or melting. and towards the end of my trip I could occasionally smell somthing burning or cooking, but the regulator looks OK. My guess(?) is the regulator? What's the consensus? The battery is less than a year old and holds it's charge. Should I just order the R1 regulator?
Also, If I get the R1 regulator do I have to tie the the two green wires together and the two red wires together?
Hey Mike... If I do the R1 reg... Would you be able to make a pig tail with the two red and two green leads?
Color me confused...
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Yeah I'm about to turn 40k and I'm thinking the same thing. When I replaced my RR the connector from the stator to the RR was showing signs of heat. I cleaned up the connectors while I was at it and it hasn't gotten any worse. I ohmed out the stator and it was within spec.
I'm resurrecting this thread because I experienced the EXACT same symptoms this last week at HookersXX '07. Just to validate Mike's symptoms the fluctuations would occur randomly. I would be cruising at a steady throttle and the voltage would drop down to 12.5 or less and the jump up to 13.9 stay there for a while and slowly climb up to 14.3 to 14.9 and occasionally hit 15.0 to 15.3. At one point (in stop 'n go traffic) it dropped down to about 11.6. I'll tear into the bike today or tomorrow and meter the system, but it does seem to be the regulator. As an aside, I was so busy checking the voltage in Oregon that I didn't see the OSP trooper that lit me up at 97 in a 50... Ouch!
Vacuum Canister Weirdness
in The Garage
Posted
Rich, most of the Fudger and C14 guys have used vacuum from the #1 and 4 TBs... A T connects the two of them and off the T to the canister. The a line is run from the canister to the CC servo. This setup seems to provide the CC with good vacuum w/o affecting the TBs... Give it a try.