Warchild
-
Posts
1,377 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by Warchild
-
-
Just where can you purchase an HID bulb for a twenty-spot?
Saw them on this forum under some link when I did a HID info search... can't find it right now, but did a google search for HID nokya h7. Found them from $19-$38
Well, no... you did not find true HID bulbs for $19-$38, I assure you. You found the bullshit knock-off "blue" bulbs that many marketing drones want to pass off as HID. They are not.
You probably found something similar to these cheap-ass Korean bulbs that don't last for shit:
-
i put the bike on the centerstand and put it in 1st gear, i rotated the rear tire and my tire rotated about two inches. i heard the clunk on both forward and reverse rotation.??????
Well, now you're almost describing the results of having rear wheel cush drive dampers that are badly worn. Toward that end - when was the last time you replace them? :icon_think:
thrash - can't you determine *specifically* where the clunk is originating from? Transmission area? Rear Wheel? Clutch assembly? Nailing down the precise origin of the clunk sound will obviously let us help troubleshoot this issue better....
-
Though they can be spendy unless you find a good discount, the OEM pads are actually very, very good. I'll likely return to them when these current Carbone Lorraine pads are toast.
-
Fuck me.......
Then obvious questions follow:
OEM F&R Sprockets?
1 tooth up or down?
The OEM front sprocket has a rubber damper on it that does, in fact, make a difference in producing less chain noise, so that might be a good argument to stay with it. Though other aftermarket spockets will certainly work just fine, and they are usually cheaper.
I personally used the OEM rear sprocket as well.... it's a mighty tough steel sprocket.
Unless you're unhappy with stock, I'd stay with the 17T/45T sizes.
-
It does sound like it's time for a new chain though.
+1
-
Sound reasonable to ya'll?
Not really... the swingarm is one tough mo-fo component; it's not going to get bent without a substantial amount of help... like getting hit in the rear or sides.
Now.. to make it track straighter (and hopefully stop scrubbing my rear prematurely) he's turned in the righthand adjustment futher than the left (by 1/2-3/4 of a marking), and suggested that it should be safe enough at sub-light speeds.So he has purposely mis-aligned your rear axle setting in an effort to compensate? :icon_duh:
There could be any number of things causing your bike to pull to the left, but purposely misaligning the rear axle in an effort to keep you tracking straight, even if it more-or-less works, is not a "fix"; he's just masking the issue.
Me, I would first re-align your axle, then go after finding the true culprit here.
-
Definitely normal temp readings under those conditions.
However... the stock suspension, even when new, is not going to do very well with a combined 530 lbs onboard.
You probably should consider some suspension upgrades.... :icon_think:
And welcome to the forum, BTW.
-
Hondabond is recommended in that location, as specified in the FSM.
True enough, it does.
Me, I had a fresh tube of Permatex Ultra Copper hi-temp gasket sealer laying around when I replaced my stator. It worked as advertised; stator cover has been leak-free for the past 30,000 miles now....
-
That'll be your clutch basket. Totally normal.
True, the clutch basket makes a lot of noise rattling around when it's cold, but this noise should dissapear when you pull in the clutch.
To me, RodeRash is describing a worn cam chain tensioner pretty accurately..... the "bag-o-marbles" discription is tell-tale....
-
also, dale, and anyone else with an auto-oiler. do you ever suffer from any loss of traction when in a steep turn that hits the very edge of your rear tire when it is covered with chain lube, and not worn off like the parts of the tire in more common contact with the road? with all that lube running down the wheel and tire sidewall, (like in dale's pic) there has bound to be some on the tread surface.
That is not lube you see on my tire in the lower left corner of the photo I posted.
What you're seeing is the remants from the Yamaha Tire Mounting Lubricate I used a few hours earlier when I mounted up some fresh Pilot Roads (you can see how it appears to emerge from under the rim). The Yammy Tire Lubricate comes in an aerosol can (comprised mostly of linseed oil, IIRC), It is very good stuff for mounting tires, and washes right off with soap-n-water. I just hadn't washed off the sidewall before I snapped off that photo of the chain.
-
From your description, concur that you've probably stripped the threads in your oil pan.
It's likely Heli-Coil time for you, mate......
-
Right before departing for the Utah 1088 last week, I staked on a splendid Tsubaki 530 Sigma X-ring chain with brushed nickel side plates, and some fresh OEM sprockets:
-
I'm in. Can't keep my chains alive.
Just checked the GB list and nothing.
Is this happening soon?
Not immediately, no. I am Rallymaster for yet another Nevada-based monster Endurance event to be held July 7-9, so I am pretty much totally focused on that until then, truth be told. I should come up for air the following week, I hope.
Hey dale, I live in salt lake. What was the indurance race you were in?The Utah 1088 that was held the weekend of June 24-25, start/finish at the Hampton Inn & Suites near the SLC Airport, just off I-80.
I came in last place for points. But first place for mileage.
2006 Results under the "Past Events" menu tab: Utah 1088 website
-
1. Depress and Hold Starter Button.
2. Turn Ignition Key.
3. Release Starter Button upon Start (normal).
HID won't ignite until after step 3 and thus cutting your HID ignition counts in half.
This certainly works... as long as you remember to do it!
I went one step further, and installed an interrupt switch to the ground wire of the low beam. Now I just switch off the low beam when I switch off the bike. When I go to start it again, I wait until the engine is running before throwing the toggle switch again. Same end result... but I have to remember to do this every time, too.
My Yamaha FJR has the arrangment we're really after here... it normally does NOT flow power to the headlights until the engine is started (vice turning the ignition on).
-
I am now approaching 80,000 miles on the bike, and this knocking issue has not changed at all in the pass 60,000 miles. Knocks at idle when hot, otherwise, the engine sounds/acts as perfect as always.
Pretty confident at this juncture that this knocking issue is nothing to be concerned about.....
-
Yeah, I'm bumming it's taking me so long to get to it, and it's largely my fault for sorta overscheduling myself with shit to do this far into the LD Rally season. Once the rally season gets rolling, I pretty much just reel from one event to another.
And I am PISSED OFF I waited this long to replace the chain on the XX, only to discover the replacement didn't come with a staked master-link. I am LOTHE to use the 'C'-clip master link on the bike, but I will if it comes done to it and it's either use the 'C'-clip, or miss the event.....
-
Yes, this GB is still on... I spoke to Pablo just last week about it.
I told him I was up to my ass in alligators, and he said no sweat, just get to it when I can. I had hopes to light it off this Group Buy this past weekend, but prep work for the Utah 1088 rally has interfered.
Ain't gonna happen this week, no way, no how.
It will be all I can to to reassemble Night Train before I depart for the Start Line in Salt Lake City this Wednesday evening. Between now and then I have to mount new tires, find a goddamn proper master link for the new chain (fucking chain I got came with a 'C'-clip link!), change the oil, and a gazillion other things..... :icon_wall:
-
I have never understood why riders seem so pre-occupied with what is simply normal tire wear. Tire scalloping is a normal consequence of tire use. This is particularly true for big, heavy sport-touring rigs like the Blackbird.
All tires eventually scallop, *all* tires. It's just that some tread patterns make for pronounced scalloping, often relatively early in the tire's life. Two examples of this would be the front tires of the Dunlop 220 and the Bridgestone BT-020. Both are excellent tires - indeed, the dry grip of the D220 is phenominal - but both display significant scalloping fairly early in their treadlife.
Other tread patterns do not lend themselves to such severe scalloping. A couple examples of this would be the Pilot Road and the Avons, though again, as you reach the end of it's service life, you'll see scalloping in these tires, too.
Ruhi, I don't see anything unusual about your Avons other than they are at the end of their service life. That, and you need to find more corners to wear down that massive ton of rubber on the outside edges....
Now, all the above having been said.... this is a completely pointless thread, in that tire wear is *extremely* specific to a rider, his riding style, and riding environment. We can't look at a picture of a used, worn out tire and draw a conclusion that the tire brand as shit. It may, in fact, be a crap tire for one person's style/environment, but it might also be a phenominal tire for someone else who rides differently and/or rides in completely different riding conditions.
Tire threads are very similar to oil threads, chain lube threads, etc, etc. There is no "one best - fits all" of any of these.
-
Aluminum, 5000 miles, Northman's bike-
This pretty well sums up why steel sprockets is the only way to fly for the XX.
Or for that matter, most any chain-drive bike that's pumping out 140-ish HP....
-
Hey WC -- good luck in the Cal 24. We'll miss you at TBME, but we got a few Traxxion front suspensions and Pazzo levers to show off even in your absence.
As it turns out... I am coming to TBME, but only for the dinner on Saturday night. I am Staff for the Cal 24 that entire weekend, and we are running a mandatory Checkpoint that's not too terribly far from Red Bluff. Fortunately, the Checkpoint doesn't open until well into the evening, so the 6:30 dinner seems do-able...
So.... see youse guys there Saturday night!
-
Here's a re-post when I submitted the shock install procedure over a year ago. This was for the Wilbers, but the steps are generally the same for your Penske...
Some photos from today's install job:
After you place the bike on the centerstand, you'll want to use a block of wood and a sissors-jack to lift the swingarm just enough to relieve the tension on the upper shock bolt:
With the fuel tank removed, now you can remove that nasty old factory shock. The locknut (far side wrench) is 17mm, the bolt head (near side wrench) is a 14mm:
It seems to take forever to unthread the top-bolt, it goes on and on and on.... :banghead:
Here's the crusty old Showa next to the shiny new Wilbers. The Wilbers is 5mm longer, eyelet-to-eyelet:
Here is the initial test-fit of the new Wilbers . I ended up rotating the shock 180-degrees so that the remote reservior and remote pre-load are affixed to the right-hand-side of the bike:
Here's the remote reservoir installed:
Job complete! Here's the Remote Preload Adjustment Knob in its final orientation:
Now to set static sag, and dial in the rear shock. Pretty tasty hardware, is it not?
-
Another easy way to tell which is which is to turn on the ignition and ensure the high-beam switch is off.
Once done, you'll know for sure that the sole remaining headlight that is still lit is the low-beam.
-
Guys, I am just behind getting the GB together, but it's coming, I promise. But I'm also in the Death Grip of Endurance rally season. Have put almost 7,000 miles on the XX the last three weekends; this eats up most all my spare time after work and family, so cut me a little slack here....
Right now, the timeline for launch looks to be the weekend after TBME, so if you simply can't wait another week or so, feel free to spend retail dollars on one, or even the $229 price mentioned above.
However, you should note the Group Buy price will be in the $180-$190 range. Delivered.
-
Gees Warchild, D'ya ever clean that thing?
Cleaning a bike wastes valuable riding time. I'll eventually catch up with some rainfall somewhere...
Warped Rotor
in The Garage
Posted
It's toast, bro... you can't resurface a motorcycle rotor. Or at least, I've never seen/heard of it being done before.