DirtTorpedo
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Posts posted by DirtTorpedo
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Hey, long time no post, but I've still been lurking.
Is this still an XX board, or can I only ask questions about the ZX-14 now? :icon_nono:
Is a 1.7 mA leak too high on a 2001 XX?
My battery won't hold a charge for shit. As soon as I take it off the
charger, it begins dropping at a rate of .01 V/sec (I.e. A full volt
every minute or so.) This is while it's hooked up to the bike. As soon
as I disconnect the negative cable this voltage drop slows way down,
but doesn't quite stop.
I am getting a current leak of 1.7 mA. Seems a bit high.
I have disconnected all aftermarket electrical crap - except for the one
HID light.
The battery is brand new (but has already been sucked dry several times.)
WTF is going on?
Thanks.
- Ted
Edit: Leak is 1.7 milli-amps, not nano.
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Didn't see shit in the service manual about it.
Anyone know the codes?
8 blinks = loose or poor contact on TPS, open or short TPS wire, Faulty TPS
TPS being throttle position sensor of course.
See page 5-20 of your honda service manual for diagnostic info.
I put the wrong cover sheet on my TPS report? I never got that memo.
Thanks, I'll check it out.
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Didn't see shit in the service manual about it.
Anyone know the codes?
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REMOVE the protective sleeve before using.
Thanks.
Well, that went surprising smoothly.
Of course, I haven't ridden it yet. . .
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That clear plastic cylinder around the bulb - stay or go?
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Stupid question: The Service Manual, page 13-24 calls for
483ml (16.3 oz) of oil. That's PER FORK, right?
Reason I ask is that I only sucked out about half that volume
in old (very dirty) oil per fork. I used a brake-bleeder pump
rather than removing the wheel and using the drain plug.
The manual also says to measure the level to be 5.6" from
the top of the fork pipe. I don't get the point of this - if I
sucked out all the old and put in the proper volume of new,
shouldn't that be sufficient? Or do you never really get all
the old stuff out?
thanks,
Ted
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Is it supposed to shutdown? The digital thermometer
starts blicking at you when it hits 250 - which I have seen
a few times. I thought you were supposed to shut it down
yourself when that happens. I saw 260 once and was about
to shut it down for fear of damaging it, but traffic started to move,
so I kept going. But afterwards the battery didn't have enough
juice to restart.
Oh, then get this - I'm now in downtown Boston on a busy
Friday afternoon with a dead battery - and some guy wants
my spot - I tell him he can have it - if he gives me a jump.
He says he doesn't have time for that. ??? Like you're going
to find another space anytime soon? But then he still expects
me to push it out of the way for him anyway! Are you f'n
kidding me?! I was most colorful in telling him to get lost.
I ALMOST succeded in getting it jumped from another decent
person (who didn't even want the spot!) before he made it
through the next light. Too bad, I really wanted to lane
split past him and test the protectiveness of my titanium gloves.
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It turns out one of the quick disconnect leads going from
the brake lever into that starter/kill-switch assembly was
loose. Thanks for the tips.
Now if I can just get to the inspection station before I'm caught. . .
Ted
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Any guesses where my problem lies?
Oh yeah - - I was also supposed to get my inspection
sticker 2 days ago. D'oh!!
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That's what I forgot to do - disconnect the cable.
Thanks guys.
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Trying to remember how this works. Does this sound right:
1. Multimeter set to DC amps.
2. Positive test lead on battery negative terminal.
3. Negative test lead on bike frame/grounded part.
4. Reading < .2 mA is acceptable.
Sound about right?
I'm getting a reading of 0, which I hate, because there is
no way to distinguish between a no leak, and me just not
doing the test properly. :???: I'd feel more confident if I read
something. If I turn on the headlight during the test, should
I definately get a reading?
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I guess my 2001 battery has gone dead a few too many
times, as it doesn't seem to want to hold much of a charge
these days.
Any opinions on best type/brand to replace it with?
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Thanks for the tips. Apparently, my problems weren't completely
from my own bogus connections.
I had hooked up a headlight modulater, and the symtoms were
that the headlight would periodically go out - and stay out - then come
back on several minutes later. (Much slower than the 8 flashes per
second as advertised.) I completly pulled the modulater, and this
was still happening.
Then a VFR owner told me of a similar problem he once had with a bad
starter switch. Next time my light went out, I tapped the starter, and
it came right back on. So I guess I'll be replacing that.
While searching the forum for related topics, I see you can also
use the starter as a flash-to-pass. Cool, never knew that. And I've
had a CBR for 9 years.
Another side note - any opinions on headlight modulaters?
Ted
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Is there some trick to crimping these on to a wire? After a
typical electrical mod I always have one or two come off the
end of the wire within a few days. Am I just not squeezing
enough? What a pain in the ass these things are. And they always
wait to come loose AFTER you've put all the fairings and stuff
back over them. It's like they know.
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Where's the cheapest place around here to get new
tires mounted and balanced? Last time I went to
Cycles 128 they charged me 2+ hours labor! I don't
know how much of that had to do with me not
buying the tires there.
Also, does handing them just the wheels instead of the entire
bike make it any cheaper?
thanks,
Ted
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Usually prepared meals are an automatic no-no, but Maple Leaf
Farms makes a Chicken Cordon Bleu (pardon my French) that
has only 11 net grams "per serving", or 22 grams for what
most people would consider a meal. Tastey too.
I've been holding steady at 200lbs for a few months now,
20lbs from my goal. I think I need to repeat the
induction phase. Too much cheating lately.
Ted
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Thanks for the tips. I need to go find a skinny enough
screwdriver, the key can't take the torque.
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I pulled that little "stopping tool" out of my new
CCT before it was installed. I was just too damn
curious. Now I can't figure out how to reset the
tension thingy - it is all the way out and doesn't
want to go back.
Did I just fuck myself?
The good news is I hadn't started disassembling
the bird yet, so I still have the old rattly one in place.
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My fins never seemed very bent, just clogged.
So I guess the water disolved the caked on mud.
I'll have to do more long term tests to see the exact effect,
but when the bike was new, it would sit at 176 on the open
highway, and typically 210 in the city.
After getting clogged it was typically 190-200 highway.
Today it was in the 180's.
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My bike has been running hot lately, hot to the point that I can't
spend more than 10-15 minutes in gridlock before it hits 250 and
starts flashing at me. I have long suspected a clogged radiator
from months of driving down a dusty/muddy road. I tried poking
out some crud with a small screwdriver, but it didn't help much.
I'm in gridlock again last night, and it starts raining. 'Great', I think,
'Not only am I going to have to pull over to cool off, but I'm going to
get soaked while I wait it out.'
But the rain had an almost immediate cooling effect; the temp dropped
from 230 to 200 within minutes. It also looked like I was a disco
smoke machine every time I stopped. So I trudged on.
Next day, dry out, ride to work, and the bike it still running about 15
degrees cooler than before. It's almost normal, like when it was new.
The rain seems to have had a permanent effect. Perhaps all I needed
all along was to hit the radiator with a high pressure garden hose?!
Ted
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I did squirt a little fluid, not lots.
Umm, let's not make that a quote of the week, okay?
Certainly there were better ones from NEXXT that didn't
have to be taken out of context.
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Hmmm.
Took the sprocket/clutch cover off; lever still has no give.
Squeeze a few times with moderate force, it suddendly gives.
I notice the piston doesn't seem to be coming out straight when I
squeeze it, so I spin it around a few times, now it seems to come
out straight.
Put cover back on; start to tighten bolts; lever stuck again.
Loosen bolts, retighten again more evenly, now it moves okay.
Tighten all the way, still okay.
So I am all set now. Started bike, everthing works.
Should I maybe bleed the clutch after all
my fiddling? I did squirt a little fluid, not lots.
Thanks for your help. Time to go see if the extra 6% torque is
worth it.
Ted
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Just changed my front sprocket and chain (went down a tooth).
Everything seemed to go back together properly - no extra
parts.
But now the clutch lever has hardly any give to itat all. I seem to be able to shift in and out of gear no problem
with the shift lever. (I haven't started the bike yet but I can tell
by the ability to spin/not spin the tire.)
Where did I mess up, besides not letting a professional do it?
Plese tell me it's a simple adjustment and that I'm not fucked.
:???:
TIA,
Ted
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Another thing to check is the condition of the radiator
"fins"; make sure they are not all bent or clogged.
I regularly drive down a dirt road, and mine became
all jammed up.
What is an acceptable current leak for the XX?
in The Garage
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Ahh, the manual says 0.2 mA or less, so I probably do have a leak. I'll start pulling fuses.