XXSIVSPD
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Posts posted by XXSIVSPD
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You should tie in the taillight. Not that I can think of any good reason to turn it off.
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Just wanted to provide some feedback from revisiting this. After reading your suggestions, my plan was to remove each connector from the plug, then clean & solder each crimp connection on the female end of this plug.
I was able to get all of the male & female connectors cleaned up last fall using diamond needle files & some contact cleaner. They still looked great.
I was expecting the crimps to look corroded, loose, or both, which was not the case at all. Each one of the crimps looked very clean & tight. No visible corrosion on the connectors & still fresh looking copper at each one.
In my case, it appears the cause was fitment. Several of the 20 female connectors were very loose & none were what I'd call snug. Not sure if I caused or aggravated this while cleaning them. It's certainly possible.
A friend had some dielectric grease with copper in it. We used a small amount of that inside each female connector after tightening them gently with a needle nose & buttoned it up. Added some silicone around the plug to create a seal.
Only time will tell, but didn't see the light once yesterday in 50 miles.
This all makes some sense. When I did start seeing my FI light, it was always on rough roads.
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According to Race Techs site, the 1.0s are what I should be getting & that's what I'll order.
Any other feedback on oil from those that have tried 7.5 or 5 wt?
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Oh I follow the logic, it's just that I'm just getting mixed info. I'll definitely order them & plan to replace them unless somebody has compelling reasons not to.
I am hearing OEM is the THE way to go when it comes to fork seals. If that's not the case, somebody steer me straight.
I wish I knew more about this stuff. Never had a set of forks apart before...
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If it's smart to swap the seals, I'll order them too.
I've just had a few people tell me to leave 'em alone if they're not leaking now.
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Time to resurrect this thread.
I'm switching to 1.0 kg/mm Race Tech springs out front & swapping oil. I've seen mixed opinions on using a 5w oil (including easy bottoming), but the general consensus is to use lighter than 10w.
I'm considering either the Motorex Racing 7.5w, Motorex Racing 5w, or the Maxima Racing 5w. Anybody care to weight in before I order?
Also, the service manual calls for 483 cc of oil. I'm assuming that's per leg. Should I order 1 liter & use something else for flushing, or order 2 liters & use the expensive stuff for flushing?
Prefer not to swap out seals unless a leak develops. Should I order a set & have them on hand just in case??
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I'm curious on cost too.
Sasquatch quoted $125 + parts for a straight rebuild & $345 for rebuild + revalve + respring.
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Thanks for the tips! I'll make a few calls.
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Pretty sure I have one here. I was going to give it to Jeff but it looks like he's moved on.
I'll confirm a.s.a.p. If you're in a hurry, let me know as I'm leaving for Jennings in about 4 hours, won't be back until late Sunday.
Time is not critical. Have fun in FL & we'll catch up next week.
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Not sure yet. I've got e-mails out to a few reputable places, one of which already shot me down.
I'm open to suggestions if anyone has 'em.
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Finally getting around to rebuilding & re-springing the rear shock on my XX & I'm looking for a stocker to send in so the bike only has to be apart once.
Thought I'd see if anyone here has one laying around before buying one on e-bay.
Mileage doesn't matter much, and I think any year will fit.
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Kind of a bizarre failure, there Jeff. Knowing your excellent mechanical skills I'm guessing it wasn't cross threaded.
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Sat at the top of the SW Vista last year for the GP weekend. Those are great seats!
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A good mushroom stamp never hurt anyone.
So Dean, what's the deal? If you'ld prefer not to post in the open, shoot me a PM. Having just gotten a CF lid & seeing Eva's head trauma, I'm more than a little concerned...
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What's wrong with your bean, Dean?
You ever seen the movie "50 First Dates"?
10 second Tom?
No PDR handy Dean. Eva still has some head trauma symptoms from her off in '08, so I was just curious about what you were dealing with.
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What's wrong with your bean, Dean?
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Helmets designed for oval shaped heads seem to fit me better than those geared towards round ones.
That said, the last Shoei I bought is an RFR in Medium. Fits me snug & proper. A bit too tight in the ears & uncomfortable to remove though.
The JR isn't broken in yet, but should be as close to a proper fit as I've had in a helmet for a long time once it is. It's also a Medium. Much lighter than anything else I own (8 lids, including a Suomy). Plenty of ear room too, which I love when wearing phones.
I've got 2 HJC's. An AC11 & a Symax Modular. Both are Larges. The Symax fit well before I broke it in, but is now about a half size too big. Fits great with a thin balaclava when I'm snowmobiling. The AC11 is a full size too big & I use it only with a thick balaclava. Most HJCs I try in a Medium are borderline painful to me in the cheeks & ear clearance on removal.
Sorry about the novel, but wanted to pass along as much as I could.
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If you like the HJC, you also might wanna check out the Joe Rocket 101 CF. Just got one from Santa. Seems superior to the HJC in quality of materials. Internally, anyway. Bike Bandit has several colors on closeout for $215 & $257.
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I think so. When I unearth that plug, I'll give it a shot.
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How easy or difficult do you feel it would be to attempt addressing each connector relative to the usual cut & solder method?
I'm all for leaving the 2 plugs intact if I can, but I know with my limited mechanical skillset that I'm best off choosing the path with lowest odds of failure.
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Here is one in decent condition on e-bay.
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Well that didn't take long. FI light started coming on again yesterday.
Looks like I'll be cutting off that connector & doing the more permanent fix.
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Assuming the windscreen is smoke, or dark smoke, I'll take it.
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I guess time will tell. I fully expect I'll need to cut & solder those leads at some point. Wonder if I should rebuild the old stator just to have a spare...
WTB Stock rear shock
in The Sales Floor -- For Sale/Wanted
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I found a stocker courtesy of Tim/Peter & it's already on it's way to being rebuilt. Thanks to both of them & to those offering other options!