lexxus
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Posts posted by lexxus
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No longer needed.
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looking for a PC3 usb for 2002
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Not to be a nay-sayer but are those the Conti's under recall?
Continental has begun a voluntary recall for its ContiMotion line of sport-touring tires. Affecting 1,700 units in the market, Continental says the tires in question are sized at 180/60R16 and under certain conditions these tires may have uneven wear, groove cracking, and in some cases even belt lift.
It goes without saying that these circumstances would leave the tires unsafe for use, though Continental has not received any reports about accidents resulting from these conditions. Most affected by the situation are Honda Gold Wing 1800 owners, especially in cases where there has been over-loading and under-inflating of the tire.
Continental says most of the affected tires were sold in the US during 2011 and 2012, with small quantities going overseas. Owners can identify affected tires by their DOT serial numbers, which in this case are H60LJJE5110 through H60LJJE3811.
Continental is currently working to identify consumers who purchased these affected tires, and will notify affected owners about the details of this voluntary recall program. Concerned ContiMotion tire owners should visit Continental’s website for more information.
Source: Continental
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Always. Its WAAAYYYY too much work to fix the alternative.
+1
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Spend the 299.99 thats what i did.Also, get hydraulic fluid and fill the pump before you use it,the pumps go bad really quick because they dont fill the pump fully. then get another front wheel chock 39.99 i think it was,drill 4 holes and mount, 10 minutes time,and then ride it on.that rolls the front wheel in and grabs the back of the front wheel to lock it in. i think the chock that comes with it sucks. i never used it because it looks so flimsy anyway.
I've never strapped it down,from birds,14's,busa's,vtx1800 no problems and the chock fits them all,its adjustable to
Also it comes with a pretty thick metal wedge bar to put in three different hole heights keeping it in place .
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i used the ones from cyclegear, they plug and play. maybe theres a store near you. works fine.
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I got the rectifier/regulator today,had my new battery on charge,used multimeter to check it, 13v engine off. Installed regulator,running 12.7- 13.2-13.7
Hids low beam not blinking after startup,high beam and low beams on,no blinking,hids come up to full brightness at idle. Let it stay that way for a couple minutes, with the older regulator the hids would startup for about 5 seconds then begin to blink. i think the problem is solved,thanks for all the help guy's.
I had the same problem with my HIDs flashing a while back... was the charging system.
You said you got "good" numbers from the Stator but Not good from the Reg/Rec.
What were the Numbers?
I replaced both the stator and my reg/rec.... and Still had bad charging numbers. It turned out to be a wiring connection issue in between the stator and Reg/rec.
I ended up taking the wires directly from the new stator and plugging them into the new reg/rec. without the stupid pigtail.
thanks Eric,i did check the wires they were tight,but i did spray dielectrical wire cleaner on them before putting the new regulator on.
Check your battery voltage. If its good, turn the switch on, don't start the bike.
Do you HID's still blink? If they do, check the voltage at the battery and see what the fluctuation is (how low the voltage drops).
Then, turn the switch off and run a jumper wire from the hot to the HID's. Do they start up or continue to blink?
If they continue to blink, run a jumper from a car battery to the HIDs and see what happens.
Now you've got some comparative diagnostics.
Thanks Joe, i did all but the car jumper. new regulator seems to have fixxed the problem..But am i missing something on the nexxt thread? i read it but maybe theres another one with more info for prices,or group name for reservations. or im just to lazy to look for it..lol
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They "blink"?
How long and how often?
I know until the ballasts are fully charged, they are prone to that. My HID (high beam) would do this if I ran the flasher after first switching it on. Only did it a few times then stopped.
yeah they blink constantly,when i first turn them on they will fire up for about 5-10 second then blink there ass off,i first saw this a couple weeks ago when i pulled up behind a car,i turned them off,but when i got to where i was going the the battery was dead, rolled to autozone,ina car. got a new battery,rode it home lights worked fine,nexxt weekend i was on my way to a bike week,pulled up behind a car again,hid's blinking like crazy,turned them off took the bike home,rode the other back to bike week,yesterday i read hobicus thread,charged the battery and did the tests.Hid's still blink. so i will try my rectifier on it now or just go ahead an order,post findings later,thanks
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I think the only real difference is where they mount on the bike.
Ahh yes, i remember now,they mount on the right side. Hmm i have a 02 harness on the bike, now i have to check it,i don't remember putting it on the right side of the bike. thanks.
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I think i have a problem with my regulator/rectifier, my hid's fire up then start to blink, i ran test on the stator and regulator, i got good numbers from the stator,but not so good from the regulator, my question is,Are there any differences between the 99-03 rectifiers except part number? I have 2 99 birds,but one with all 02 wiring harness,so i want to try the 02's rectifier on it to make sure its bad.
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I got both, but drilled a couple of holes in the front of the undertail and snugged them up to the battery box with zip ties. Works like a charm!!!
How do you find the rear lights for visibility? I would have interest in this undertail if I could tie my led blinkers into the tailight
No need to tie your blinkers into your taillights. mototeck in back up and running now, new owner is danny, good guy. you can buy the 12 board led's,they have turn signals bilt into them, www.mototechinnovations.com click on the 3 wire led's then click on the drop down boe and pick the amber and red,,thats the 5 wire setup with turn signals, they are cheaper to buy a set of 4. if i get a chance i will try to put a video of mine working. very visable
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air filter...29.40...58.80 for 2
fpr...42.21
f sprocket..50.42
shipping...16.16
total...167.59
I've always found there parts to be cheaper then anywhere else, but now the shipping has increased.
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Don,
You really should sign up and get the ZX-XX down to RacerXX !
I really wish i could john, but again im just coming off shoulder surgery, i waited till nov to do it., hopefully nexxt year,but i really want to make nexxt this year.
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Hey, happy new year to all.
I'm finally going to get the zx-xx painted, and i'am looking for the tank and side fairing decals. if anyone has them dusting up a spot in front of the tv,and want to get rid of them,let me know,thx
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QUOTE(kazikazi57 @ Nov 13 2010, 11:27 AM) ←QUOTE(EVLXX @ May 9 2008, 06:47 AM) ←QUOTE(bartonmd @ May 9 2008, 05:24 AM) ←I never had any overheating problems (overheating is defined as the coolant boiling), but it does get warm in traffic when it's over 90... I just spent the $30 to switch to the Evans NGP+, that boils at 375 degrees at 0-psi. The engine doesn't care, a good, modern oil doesn't care, etc...
Mike
+1 to that...
I run Evans NPG+... thanks to ... Byrdman
I am thinking of changing to Evans NPG+ - anyone have problems finding a cap that will seal the radiator and make it a closed system? I read that this is something that you must do with the Evans NPG+. Is this what you di
Kazi
Nope. I used the stocker. Have had the stuff in for 2+ years now, no problem. Byrd & Bartonmd use it also, maybe they will chime in.
Makes you feel all special and stuff.
+1 on the stocker cap
, been running npg+ a year
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I'd love to do something inside the turn signal housings.
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Hey Don,,,,,,,, is that really you?
RacerXX is in two weeks, again!
Yeah it be me, how you been? Again i wish i could make it,,but im going to have shoulder surgery soon,so i don't know if i will ride at all the year.
Tring to get that zxxx together finally. Motor has been rebuilt , but becoz of the high compression i cant get it tuned without retarding the ignition, so far the rwhp is nowhere near what i was told before or after tuning. Can you believe its been 6 years...
Have a safe and great time, i really want to do that track day, hopefully i can catch a ride there nexxt year, I'm putting it on the calender.
I have a power commander that I have not installed. Let me check ro see if it is a pc2.ok thanks. appreciate your response
I got one too ..Alright, maybe i can get somewhere finally..Thx for the response.
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bump....lol
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looking for a pc2
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A few people asked, so I'll offer up my version. I will continue to edit this post to answer questions or address things I left out, and it will be a work in progress for a while. I won't get it done in one sitting, so please be patient. I did not engineer this hodgepodge, that was done by others who have gone before me - Stan, Allen, Redeye, and others. I am doing this writeup to repay my debt for stealing their research and effort.
ZXXX - Bolt-on Pathway
This conversion of wheels, forks, and brakes leans on the 2006-2007 ZX10R for many parts, and does not convert the swingarm or rear brakes to ZX14 trim. The benefits of using ZX10R wheels and rear brakes are that no welding or fabricating is needed to adapt the caliper bracket to the XX swingarm, nothing has to be done to adapt the axle diameter (same), the chain length remains the same, wheelbase remains the same, and the caliper needs only some aluminum standoffs with longer bolts to achieve the correct offset to meet the rotor. As for the front, ZX10R wheels are a popular conversion for the 14 crowd and they simply bolt up to a 14 fork with little drama, albeit with the 14 rotors. They're lighter, also. People are using them on 14's, and I haven't heard of catastrophic failures on that platform - which carries a little more weight and a measurable amount more power.
The victim is a 1997 CBR1100XX, the FI models may have complications I am unaware of due to the FI intake and different radiator position - I just don't have a FI bike to test fit on. The 14's forks fit in the 929/RC51 SP1 combination of trees, and the 929 stem, while a little longer than the XX, works. The bearings are the same. The steering stem lock is at the same position, but I don't have enough turn to get it to engage - still messing with it. More narrative to come on the general description.
Forks: Pre-2012 Kawasaki ZX14 (2012 and up ZX14R may work, I don't know if anything is different)
Front Brakes: Matching ZX14 master cylinder, calipers, lines, and rotors
Lower Triple Tree: Honda 929, with stem and bearings. The bearings are the same as the XX. The bearings on the 954 are the same size - I can't vouch for the stem length, though. An RC51 SP-1 lower may work better (bearings the same as the XX), but caveats on the stem length here as well. The radiator clearance may be improved with the 51's clamp arrangement.
Upper Triple Tree: 2000-2001 Honda RC51 SP-1. I don't know why a 929 upper wouldn't work, and may work better. Check back after I ebay a cheap one.
Wheels: 2006-2007 Kawasaki ZX10R front and rear.
Rear Brakes: 2006-2007 Kawasaki ZX10R caliper, mount/bracket, and master cylinder.
Sprocket: 2000-2005 Kawasaki ZX12R 45T (Supersprox #ISB-SWP-9516) NOTE THAT THIS IS FROM THE 12R not the 10R as most everything else rotating.
Controls: 2000-2005 Honda Superhawk right side switch and throttle assembly (2pcs). You will use the XX cables. I'll explain in the narrative why, and try to explain the re-wire that needs to be done.
Clip-ons: DanMoto xxmm fully adjustable clipons
Front Fender: OSBODYKIT (ebay seller) Carbon Fiber 2006-2007 ZX10R fender. Just personal preference over the 14's fender. Or you can source a stock 10R fender.
Fender Brackets: Twowheelwerks.com brackets adapt the 10's fender to the 14's forks. $60 well spent for me, YMMV.
Rear Caliper Bolts: xxmm x dia x pitch allen head
Rear Caliper Spacers: xxmm x xx id x xx od aluminum round stock
Rear Axle Spacers:
To Do:
measure brake spacers (length, id, and od)
measure caliper mount bolts
identify rear axle spacer
steering stops - not.
Price list
Source list
Assembly narrative
Thank you.Very nice write up. gives me ideals for the other bike. Hmmmm
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hank if you still need them in a week, i'll be back in the country, i have a silver pair i just replace with after markets.
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Looking for a set of inset levers like the Pazzo or ASV's. If you bought a set and don't much care for them, let me know.
Check these out Joe, i ordered a pair june 26 recieved july 5th, shorty's. the finish is nice, the fit perfect. i did nothing but take the screw out and bolt them on. 5minutes. i like the way they feel. i will get a long set for the zxxx.
Egay#180885005109
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Would these work on my RC-51. It so I can PayPal you friday
If they don't fit directly,you can get a adapter kit from throttlemiester for $15 dollars, I did this for my zxxx to install the one's from my xx handle bar's.
WTB: PC3
in The Sales Floor -- For Sale/Wanted
Posted
Hey Joe,
I actually was able to get the map out of the one i have,And was able to reload the map and its working again.
I changed the throttlebodie's and for some reason the map would not allow the bike to run with the change..