Biometrix
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Posts posted by Biometrix
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The FJR has been sold. Local buyer. Nice guy. Thrilled with the deal.
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The FJR is a little bit more forward lean than the ST1300. You can check it on the bike ergo page but I remember from when I first decided to go the Sport-Tourer route that I really wanted to love the ST1300 but it was too upright of a seating position for my likes. It felt like a Gold Wing trainer. More "tour" than "sport". Anyhow, not trying to talk your friend out of it but it's honestly not a Gold Wing feel and that any forward lean over a fully upright or cruiser style can be uncomfortable to a rider not used to it, especially in the wrists until they learn to sit properly and not ride it like a cruiser or a standard.
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I have a friend who's looking - he's thinking Goldwing - he has a monster case of spring fever. We go to lunch most days and talk bikes, music, politics, etc.
How different do these sit from a 'wing please?
Waaaaay different. It's a more of a sportbike position. Less forward than the XX but still more than the wing.
Here you go...Pics based on a 6' rider w/32" inseam
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Alright you fucktards - Spring is around the corner and this awesome FJR is still taking up space in my garage. Price now dropped to $7100 OBO. KBB and NADA lists it as being valued around $7800 not considering the ultra low miles and loving care it has been given. Make me a reasonable offer.
I would sell this bike to my brother (if I had one) or best friend with confidence.
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I would suggest that after Monday you should get Zero to run the network wiring in your new house. He will have become an expert by then on everything IT related.
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It just so happens that Wisconsin has recently become part of my territory for work sooooo...I like my beer served thusly...
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Oh, sorry. Wasn't trying to "kick you". It's just one of those things where if you work with the publisher/graphics/presentation programs all the time it's easy-peasy stuff.
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Oh and on a scale of 1-5 with 5 being the most difficult of "challenging things to do with a publisher program" this was a 1. It gave me a nice break from surfing for porn. Literally took about 7 minutes.
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It was wadded up in one of my kids pockets. The picture is rough because it was folded and carried around a long time. ...so, yeah, it's the picture I want - with the patina.
Beautiful job Bill.
I hadn't considered leaving his face blocked in like that.
How long in terms of beer did it take? half-a-beer, a whole one , more?
Better than I hoped for.
Mike,
Part of the problem - I'm running the wrong program - PowerPoint 2003, not Publisher 2015 or whatever. AND I have almost NO experience with this type of document.
The text is text above and selectable BTW
How absolutely crazy do you think the whole sloth meme is?
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OK, someone actually performed some magic. ...you went and found the original picture? Holy slow process Batman.
It's better - no one else would get the patina.
Actually the picture you provided didn't look so good but here you go...you can decide. A quick Google search of "sloth in hammock" returned the result for the original picture. Let me know if you want it in PDF or some other format.
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Here you go...also attached as JPG below
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To get proper motivation, this may help. Take your age and divide it half. Round it up to the next whole number. If that number is below 18 add at least 3. If that number is less than your youngest child's age then add enough to bring it at least one year older (because equal or less would be creepy). Now find a hot girlfriend that age or no more than 3 years older. You will then be motivated to stay in shape and as additional bonus you will have little time, cash or energy left over for yourself to indulge in activities that will make you fat. If you're married the additional stress will also help melt away the extra pounds. The time you spend together should help with your cardio if you're doing it right. It's kind of expensive but you can't really put a price on your health now can you?
I have a GF but she's a little older, lives in PA, has such a cute scruffy face and a huge schlong.
Love my guy.
His wife keeps getting in the way though
That's why you have to juice to lose weight. You're not following the program. Also I think she's on to us...she found your sexts on my phone.
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To get proper motivation, this may help. Take your age and divide it half. Round it up to the next whole number. If that number is below 18 add at least 3. If that number is less than your youngest child's age then add enough to bring it at least one year older (because equal or less would be creepy). Now find a hot girlfriend that age or no more than 3 years older. You will then be motivated to stay in shape and as additional bonus you will have little time, cash or energy left over for yourself to indulge in activities that will make you fat. If you're married the additional stress will also help melt away the extra pounds. The time you spend together should help with your cardio if you're doing it right. It's kind of expensive but you can't really put a price on your health now can you?
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Just an update/feedback on this project - I removed original header pipe without breaking off any studs - thanks God! Three studs stayed in head, rest came out with nut. I soaked those for a week in PB Blaster and they still would not separate - only way I got them apart was to heat the nut cherry red with torch - bunged up a few studs in the process. As the nuts were all rather rusty, I order new ones from Partzilla - not cheap, nut nice OE ($3.50 each PN:11-90304-MM5-000). I also bought some studs from them ($3.61 each PN:11-90035-MM5-000).
The Honda exhaust gaskets I ordered (PN: 11-18291-MW3-670) are an O-ring shape and seem to be a composite type material. The OE ones I took out were a more standard washer style gasket. Has anyone used these O-ring style gaskets/do you think they will work out ok with Yosh header?
One little trick I used to install the studs that worked well - I cut one of the old nuts in half to make two smaller (thinner) nuts. I used them as "jam" nuts on the stud to allow me to screw it in all the way to bottom.
Never had the header off my XX when I had it but from my other bike header "experiences" it's likely that your new O-ring gaskets are crush gaskets and will assume the "standard washer" shape once in place and with the header tightened down. The gaskets for my VTX and Valkyrie were O-Ring type when new but not so much after installation. In fact the VTX gaskets "crushed in" so nicely that they were hard to see when you took the header back off and had to be removed with a steel pick or similar tool to pry them out.
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Done deal. Youngest daughter will be happy-happy. Middle daughter will be jealous having to drive her inferior '08 Passat with no Bluetooth or Nav. I am both a good and terrible father at the same time. Thanks Dave.
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Can I please have "conditional dibs" with a go/no-go confirmation in the next 24 hours?
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More pix now that she's all cleaned up and waxed.
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Nice! Don't ya just love it when things fall into to place unexpectedly?
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I used it to power the meter and the front of the brake reservoir was the perfect size to mount the voltmeter with some of that 3M two-sided tape they use for car emblems and whatnot.
So you have to rip off the tape every time that you change brake fluid?
Nope. Where the voltmeter is attached doesn't interfere with the removal of the reservoir top and the switchbox is attached with heavy duty velcro that doesn't cover the screws.
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This post inspired me to mount a voltage meter on my new bike. First I made the switchbox from a $4 project box bought at Radio Shack as I needed a place to mount switches for my garage door opener and driving lights and didn't want to drill through panels on the bike. Since I already had power and ground running into the switchbox for the led light on the switch, I used it to power the meter and the front of the brake reservoir was the perfect size to mount the voltmeter with some of that 3M two-sided tape they use for car emblems and whatnot.
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Yeah I put the dildo seat on my new bike. It's very comfy. $9000 for Joe. He has a Harley so he is used to over-paying.
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Spent the weekend removing all the farkles that I'll be transferring on to my new bike. Here is what remains, up for sale first on this forum for the XX peeps or anyone you might know looking for an awesome sport-tourer deal.
2008 Yamaha FJR1300A – 16,802 miles – Original Owner – Asking
$8200$7800$7100 OBO for you guysABS Brakes – Manual 5 speed – Shaft Drive – Raven Black
Ignition switch recall performed by dealer in 2009
All regular maintenance performed on or before schedule and I have all the documentation as I did all the work myself
New battery in summer of 2014
New plugs, brake and clutch fluid changed, radiator flushed in 2014
Secondary grounding harness installed (Roadrunner harness)
Cee-Bailey 2” higher and 3”wider reverse flip windshield and original stock windshield included
Cee Bailey headlight guards
OES frame sliders
Kuryakyn voltage meter
Michelin PR3 tires with about 7500 miles on them, good tread remaining, installed in 2012
Vista-Cruise throttle lock
Grip Puppies
Fenda-Extenda
Wild Bill’s highway peg mounts and Rivco highway pegs
Real-Time Industries rear bag reflective decals
Yamaha Factory Service Manual, original owner’s manual and all documentation
Original keys, extra side case lock (for future optional top case if desired) and side case frame fillers and side case inner bags.
Bike has performed flawlessly and is in very good shape. Garage kept. Never dropped or laid down. No mechanical problems. Normal wear and tear but no dents, dings or major blemishes/scratches. In the spirit of full disclosure the only complaint I have about this bike if I had to complain about something is that it is a clunky shifter. Always has been, seems to be a trait of the Gen II FJRs but has no bearing on performance or reliability.
Some other standard features:
1298cc, DOHC, 16-valve, liquid-cooled in-line four engine delivers 145 hp @ 8500 rpm and 99.1 ft-lbs of torque @ 6000 rpm. Red line is 9,000 rpm.
Fully adjustable 48mm cartridge-style forks. Fork adjustments include: 5 - way spring preload, 21 - way compression damping and 17 - way rebound damping.
Adjustable handlebars offer three positions of adjustability.
Convenient push button operated electrically adjustable windscreen.
Tires pre-cupped (not really, they're fine)
I can provide more pictures if needed but here's one from today with it not washed and waxed yet.
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Are you attaching them to the walls, floor or ceiling? Will you be installing anything over the plywood? Personally I would use screws rather than nails but if you want to use a nail gun you'll want to shoot a nail with a head so my suggestion would be a framing nailer using 7D or 8D nails. You might also consider a crown stapler instead of nails. All depends on how concerned you are with the plywood shifting/moving/loosening as the framing and sheathing swells and shrinks.
The majority will be on a 14' wall. Nothing over the plywood, I will be attaching stuff like shelves, cabinets, tool hangers, a metal the medallion and medal the cross.
There will be some interior ceilings on a couple of sections. I will probably use OSB for that, so 3/4" will be most likely, since it will serve as the floor of my loft also.
I have used screws basically all my life. Talk to me..... I just assumed a nailer would be the way to go in terms of speed and economy. I have a lot of experience screwing. Would I just use 1-1/2" coarse drywall screws or is there a better screw for plywood?
BTW, i got a line on plywood, $5 a sheet. Seconds off barges over on the Cumberland River. No damage, whole sheets. A lot have that black metal powder stuff on them, and forklift tire marks. I got all I could haul Tuesday, 30 sheets.
I would NOT use drywall screws. They are made to go into a soft surface and you might end up popping a lot of heads off of them. I would use deck screws and you would probably be ok with 1-1/2 "" or 1-5/8", 2" if you want to be extra secure (probably 2" on the OSB ceiling would be good). Nailer would definitely be faster/cheaper but I personally like the extra holding power of screws and the fact that you can easily unscrew them later if need be without fucking up the sheathing.
In the spirit of full disclosure, I'm just a "weekend" handyman so there may be others on the forum that have a more professional perspective of your inquiry and my advice may be crap. It's just the way I would do it.
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Are you attaching them to the walls, floor or ceiling? Will you be installing anything over the plywood? Personally I would use screws rather than nails but if you want to use a nail gun you'll want to shoot a nail with a head so my suggestion would be a framing nailer using 7D or 8D nails. You might also consider a crown stapler instead of nails. All depends on how concerned you are with the plywood shifting/moving/loosening as the framing and sheathing swells and shrinks.
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Dibs! Let me know if still available and I will send paypal promptly. Youngest daughter needs a new camera.
Selling my '92 Lexus Sc400 $2000 (tired of washing it)
in The Sales Floor -- For Sale/Wanted
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Holy shit! A Chevette! Haven't seen one of those in years around these parts. I'm pretty sure that the road salt from winter dissolved all of them north of the Mason/Dixon line. Agree with Blackhawk that would be a fun car to trick out just for the WTF reaction.