Biometrix
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Posts posted by Biometrix
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56 minutes ago, JoWhee said:
I'd probably go with 2". But check with code, some jurisdictions won't allow high and low voltage wires in the same conduit.
The jurisdiction in question will not be privy to this particular project. I was thinking 2" also but didn't want to over-do it. The 2" conduit body boxes just seem huge.
45 minutes ago, SwampNut said:Are the devices on both ends compatible with shielded Ethernet cable? Are you aware of the grounding requirements?
Yes, the Cat 6 is for a PoE camera. The others are all run with shielded Cat 6. If you mean grounding of the sub panel, also yes...it will need a separate ground at the garage. If you mean some other type of grounding then I am at a loss and would welcome your advice.
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I'm running a 6/3 line from my main panel to a new 60 amp sub panel in a detached garage. I would also like to pull an RG6 and Cat 6 cable (both shielded). It's going in buried conduit so would you use
1-1/2" or 2" conduit?
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Do you mean like a dryer or rangehood vent? They have "flappers" to prevent air (and mice and bugs) from getting back in when the blower isn't running. Also, did I read correctly that your bathroom fan vents into the attic? That's not right and they should be at least vented to the eaves but ideally outside. Maybe I'm missing the problem here but I read through the posts twice.
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Ok so I learned something new...some people have outside dryers. Honestly didn't know that was a thing but doesn't seem to apply in this case anyhow. However with regard to the melting wire issue, I have no input on the repair but am also concerned about the cause. Two things I have heard that can cause overheat are blocked dryer vent and/or dirty lint filter. Assume you have checked both of these? Perhaps look beyond the obvious. Sometimes lint can get jammed down in the filter if it's the kind you slide in and out. Also vents can get clogged by a number of things including mice getting in through the outside vent and expiring. Just because you can feel warm air coming out the vent doesn't mean it's not at least partially blocked. Anyhow if it's neither of those then good luck and I hope you remedy the issue. Would hate to see it cause a fire or worse.
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16 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:
Also, where is the dryer located. Some people put theirs outdoors or at least exposed to outside air, and even if it’s not rained on, the moisture in the air isn’t good for the appliance.
Where is this happening? The only outdoors dryer I've ever seen consisted of a line strung between two points suspended above the ground or some variation of that specifically designed to expose clothes to the outside air...and sun. Is this a southern thing?
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Any chance you would sell just the Sargent seat? I would also give you the stock seat in return if you don't have the original?
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2 hours ago, XXBirdSlapper said:
How old is the battery?
That would be my question too. Sounds like the bird is working just fine now but bike batteries can be fickle once stressed. If it's an older battery I would replace it just for peace of mind and cheap insurance so your trip doesn't get jacked up.
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Great deal for someone. Barely broken in with that mileage. Black Cherry is a much coveted paint color in the FJR continuum.
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On 2/27/2017 at 7:52 PM, Loki said:
Sent you a PM.
L;
Sold to Loki for his daughter. Just left with the bike. Great people...safe travels back home. Hope she enjoys many safe and happy miles on it!
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Man, talk about a useless impulse buy. 2014 Kawasaki Versys 650 ABS. I've put a total of 58 miles on this bike and bought it last year new as a leftover so the factory warranty is still good until 6/24/2017. There's not a thing wrong with it other than it's just not the right bike for me and my visions of doing some dual-sport riding just didn't materialize. Just too spoiled by the FJR. Also thought my niece would ride it but she has now up and moved to California to pursue a career in radio so she won't be coming around much here anymore.
Just a few add-ons which are:
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SW MoTech engine guards
- R&G front axle sliders
- Barkbusters VPS Hand Guards
- Battery Tender connection
Bike has been garage kept and has had no incidents, drops or other bumps, bruises or blemishes.
Offering it for $5000 OBO here first. Will be listed for $5500 elsewhere.. All original paperwork, user manual, keys and hardware switched for SW-MoTech guards are included. Title in hand. Please PM me if interested or with any questions.
Located in eastern PA
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Thanks for the review and the tip about Montgomeryville Cycle Center. Went there today with my wife and got her that jacket in Men's Medium which was the perfect fit. She wanted it for work and for riding. Excellent 60% off price!!!
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For sale is my HJC RPHA Max modular helmet, size Large in Matte Black. I purchased this helmet July last year and have worn it maybe half a dozen times but decided it just doesn’t work for me.
The RPHA model is supposed to be HJC’s high end offering. For a modular it is fairly light at 3.55 lbs. Air flow is good and build seems solid. The front face opens and closes easily and the latch hardware is metal not plastic.Has an internal sun-shield.
The main reason I don’t like it is that there is that face shield latch is at the bottom-middle of the face shield (see pic 3 for best view). When closed it’s not really noticeable but I tend to ride with with the face shield half open so it’s right in my field of view. I didn’t think this would bother me but it does.
You should also be aware that there are no cutouts or indents for in-helmet speakers but I installed my Sena SMH-10 without issue and could not feel the speakers. I actually liked that there were no speaker spaces as they generally aren’t in the right position for my ears anyhow. The Velcro to hold the helmet speakers and the mic is still in place. I was afraid it would mess up the inside shell to try and peel them off. If you use an in-helmet speaker system you can probably just re-use the Velcro. If you don’t, you would never notice it unless you pulled out the cheekpads.
Otherwise it’s a great helmet. Excellent condition and the Inside is clean and odor free. It still has that new-helmet smell. Nice helmet bag included. Face shield is Pinlock ready and a brand new never installed Pinlock insert is also included.
I paid about $418 a year ago. Will sell including shipping to the lower 48 for $200. See the Revzilla review at the bottom of this post. Paypal preferred. PM me if interested
Revzilla Review: https://youtu.be/AamP-cYBAPU
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Jesus Christ - is good you're alone. Not sure there is a human on the planet that could put up with your minute by minute drama.
Actually it seems that there is a whole forum that can and does.
So what does that say about us? I'm feeling bad about myself right now. 
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I think a rectal thermometer would work. If it shows a normal body temperature is present, that person should come in early on a Monday and reset the HVAC.
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Jesus Zero - fucking buy this one.
It's new and 50% off.
Agreed. Great bike, low miles and great price! Don't let another one slip by you Zero.
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You can have mine for $16.98.
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I also "might" if Dave doesn't. I'll check now...
...is this the one you need?
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The title of this thread is misleading. I was going to say to make sure it is firmly planted up someone's ass.
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Maybe just needs to be opened up and cleaned? Is it the 2002? If so that's about 13 years of potential crud build-up. Try contact cleaner that is also safe for plastic.
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Now that I read your whole post I would have to agree that a posi-tap is the way to go. I've used them to tap into my headlight wires and tail light wires with no problems in many years and miles.
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Here's another source of OEM style connectors - http://www.cycleterminal.com/index.html
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I've hit mine by mistake a couple times on my previous bikes and then sat there scratching my head like a moron trying to figure out why the bike won't start. Thankfully on the new FJR they have incorporated it with the start button so that can't happen. Pure engineering genius. That said, I wouldn't mess with it either. Just too easy to add extra switches.
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Guy who tested at the store commented that the secret was to keep them charged...which I pretty much did even though I wasn't riding the bike much. Had I let it go MONTHS without even putting it on a charger, it might be a different story.
Yeah...soooo...that's not really a secret.
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Lot's of good advice here on answering your primary question. Perhaps using the HIDs as any kind of an indicator for battery health is not really germane to your issue.
Going forward you might consider getting a voltage gauge and installing it on your bike if/when you get a new battery. Note the voltage when you turn the bike on before start-up and then while it's running. If you see a noticeable change in the future you can better assess whether a battery or stator failure is brewing.
Question for you electrician types
in Handyman
Posted
Well fuck! See, this is what happens when you blindly rely on the advice of others. One of my field techs (who normally is pretty sharp) is the guy who installed my PoE camera system and strongly suggested the shielded Cat6. Clearly based on a quick Google search it appears this was unnecessary and I know now it's not grounded at all. I think I'll have him climb up in my attic again now and replace the shielded to the other cameras with regular Cat 6 as penance. Thanks for the heads up on that.