SD Marc

I think I know what the problem is... Seriously, I am very sorry to hear this. If there is anything I can do to help let me know Ruhi.

Nice work on the switch mod. That is great info, thanks!

Could someone tell me what "Starter valve synchronization" is? It is in the service manual on page 5-72. Thanks.

http://www.contractorstools.com/helicoil1.html

That does sound like you stripped the threads in the oil pan. If you did you have two choices that I know of. 1) replace oil pan 2) helicoil Sorry to hear that, good luck.

I don't have a camera for the pics but I dremelled off the crimps on the stock fuel line, removed the line so I could reuse the stock banjo connectors. I replaced the hose with ss braided line and red anodized clamps (just standard automotive screw clamp with an anodized cover). Total cost $15 time 1/2 hour. Now I can cancel the stock replacement I ordered through the stealer for $85.

Already installed and tested.

'99 FI. The pressure in line. It did not rupture under pressure, I noticed it leaking when I had the tank up. The outer jacket has a split running lengthwise from the fuel rail end up for about an inch. It appears to have split along a seam.

Anyone else have a fuel line failure?

Amazing, glad you walked away with just that damage.

I have put around 3k mls. with mine and like the results. New front tire and forks revalved with new springs by DK long before the super brace was installed so those mods did not effect my opinion. I think the handling is more precise with the brace.

http://www.whitebuffaloracing.com/didchain...0Series%20chain

The fork work I had done by Dan was a great improvement. However I am not sure if I would go that route again. The only complaint I have is that I still have some bouncing headlight syndrome on some pieces of superslab. Carlos says he doesn't have this issue so I have some doubts about weather Dan has the perfect solution. I have no complaints with the front in the twisties, the bike handles much better, the braking is vastly improved. OTOH my truck gets a harmonic bouncy thing going on on the same strech of superslab so I am not sure if it is really a problem. I also have not yet replace the rear shock and I am thinking that that is contributing to the bounciness on the freeway. I think that replacing the fork springs will give you the most bang for your buck and is an easy job to do yourself. Total cost ~ $100. Carlos can give you some better input on getting your valving redone a la the RaceTech upgrade.

brakes burning when you haul the bird down from ~150 very quickly??? No other problems with the brakes, Galfer blacks nearing the end of their life.

Chris and Dale, thanks for the clarification.

Why the 20wt? I had my forks reworked by Dan Kyle about 18 months ago called him up and asked him what he recommended for changing it out and he said to use 5wt. Just curious.

I bought the ZVM at whitebuffaloracing.com for around $100 plus shipping.

I would suggest using a torque wrench with the correct hex driver, set the torque wrench to 20ft/lbs per the owners manual specifications.

Yeah, I've never seen them slam the rear down after doing a stoppie. :grin:

? 1" Galvanized... I.D. is to small. 1" copper is right I.D. and O.D. but seems like it would be to soft. PVC Wrong I.D and O.D. not to mention that I don't want plastic shavings in my bearings. Doesn't slide around the stearing stem at all forget about I.D. and O.D. Would be a perfect tool for the task with the exception that I don't have one. Oh, by the way did I mention that the bearing cage with the needle bearings in it come attached to the lower race when you get your tapered roller bearings from CBR Bearings?

Anyone know of a good tool for installing the lower bearing on the stearing stem?

Thanks, I will give that a shot.

I am doing the seering head bearings and need a steering stem socket. Do I need the Honda socket or would I be able to find one of these some place else? TIA

lol :pointup:

I have one I use as a refrigerator magnet in the garage.