[FS: 1997 CBR1100xx No Cal]

Hello-

Selling my 97 Blackbird as I haven't been riding much lately...been spending my time with my little boy!

Upgrades:

Givi keyless side luggage

Givi topbox with backrest

SW Motech luggage mounts for sides and topbox

Rick Mayer seat - really nice for touring

Throttlemeister

Mirror extenders from John in FL

Givi windscreen

26K on the odometer

It's in really nice condition. I'm the third owner, purchased it with about 6K on the clock if I recall correctly, and have kept up the maintenance on it. All owners have been the conservative type; ie no wheelies, burnouts, or any of that fun stuff

Left side is not perfect, I think previous owner laid it against something because there are small scratches that have been covered with touch up paint. The pics show the damage.

Tires are new. I'm on original chain and sprockets but bought another set that I'm including in the sale. I also have a tank bra and the stock windshield, included in the sale.

Asking $4000. I have more pics available, just PM and I'll send!

Thanks-

Rob

[Whistling noise left side of motor]

thanks marc, yeah just pulled the clock fuse a few mins ago and the leakage dropped to zero. Any ideas from anyone on the low 13.9V@5000rpm? Maybe I should repeat that with the clock fuse pulled...

[Whistling noise left side of motor]

Tell the midget inside to stop whistling and get to work.

hehe

Here are the voltages at battery terminals:

12.2V engine warmed up but sitting 5mins, ignition off

12.4V engine started, at idle

13.9V 5000rpm....<14.7V min spec

13.5V drop back to idle

13.2V ignition switched off

Current leakage, ignition off:

0.536mA....>0.2mA max spec

Argh, don't tell me I have a short...this might mess me up for the West Coast Bash :mad:

[Whistling noise left side of motor]

thanks...mileage is about 15k. I'll try the voltmeter thing this evening.

[Whistling noise left side of motor]

I removed the left side panel and looked around for the source of the noise. It seems to be coming from down low, around the water pump. It's somewhere around the water pump, the spline where the gearshift lever runs into the gearbox, and some sensor. Any other ideas? Could it be a bearing in the water pump? :sad:

[Whistling noise left side of motor]

I've been getting this high pitch whistling noise coming from the left side of the motor. Seems to be coming from the carbs area, it's loudest when you put your ear near the clutch slave cylinder. Happens when the engine's warm, around the temp when the fan kicks in. Starts off intermittently but within a minute increases in frequency until it's near continuous. Only seems to occur at idle speeds. Engaging/disengaging the clutch doesn't make it go away. Idling with power on the rear wheel doesn't make it go away. Bike still idles and runs well, plenty of power from what I can see.

Any ideas? It's a CA bike so I'm guessing a hose or something? Maybe it's normal? I've only had the bike for a few months now.

Thanks!

[Cleaning corrosion on exhaust headers]

Almost got that Nighthawk project complete.

Any advice on cleaning up the corrosion that's on the exhaust headers? Here's a photo of the #1 header...I used metal polish (w/steel wool) on the top (just above the flash reflection), and that seems to take care of the haze...but it won't remove the "spiderweb" pattern just below the flash reflection.

Any ideas? Are these chromed...and if so, do I need to re-chrome them?

Thanks much

[Backfiring Nighthawk]

It was lean.

I rechecked my hoses, I had the #2 cylinder intake to fuel tap taped off while using the external fuel cell, but apparently not well enough and it was still leaking air :oops: I'm a dumbass

Pulled the tape off and it was gulping air and backfiring. Sealed it up properly and it was smooth.

Checked the carb-intake boots for clamp tightness, then sprayed carb cleaner and no change in idle...good to see those were good...would have been a total pain in the ass to detach/reattach the airbox boots :mad:

I think I also had the idle a bit low, stepping that up seems to help the response.

Put it back together and took her out for a spin...runs fine albeit a bit slower than I remember (been riding the BB exclusively the past few wks) :wink:

Really nice bike, the Nighthawk...good looks and bomber reliable. Probably gonna sell it soon, shame to see it go.

Thanks for the help.

PS Nice pix, Rich :razz:

[Backfiring Nighthawk]

What's up, maintenance studs.

Can someone give me some advice re: a poor power/backfiring problem that I have on my CB750 Nighthawk?

Engine idles well, but when I give the throttle a good twist from idle it bogs at 2-3000rpm. It then continues to climb to the upper rpms with no apparent problem. When I close the throttle sharply, I get backfiring.

I had the carbs serviced, nice and clean now but no change to the bogging/backfiring.

Same behavior both with fuel tank/strainer and external fuel cell/no strainer.

Changed plugs, same behavior. Plugs generally look good but the white ceramic insulator gets a slight brownish look to it when I make the bike bog and then remove.

Coil primary resistance in spec for both coils.

Secondary resistance (with caps) slightly high for both coils...spec is 18-22kohms, I get around 24 and 25kohms on the two coils. Secondary resistance without caps is in spec.

Battery voltage is 11.85V. Battery's been in there awhile and I haven't ridden it regularly, but no problems starting etc

Any ideas? :?:

Thanks

Rob

[Carburetor sync questions]

I synched at around 3000, hope I didn't screw anything up :???: the middle screw was loose by just under 1/4 turn. Couldn't detect much of a vacuum difference carb to carb at idle. It gave me a smooth idle though and I got about 40mpg this past weekend

...granted I was driving like Grandma :oops:

[Carburetor sync questions]

hehe, thanks North. :razz:

What are the best carb synchronizers, anyway? I used an old JC Whitney w/the dial/spring gages...are the Mercury columns considered more precise?

[Carburetor sync questions]

Does anybody remember what carburetors are? :roll:

I installed new spark plugs last week, then synched the carburetors. I did the carb sync with the airbox installed. While doing so, the only sync screw that I seemed to have access to was the one between carbs 2 and 3. Luckily, that was the only one that needed adjusting as the 1-2 and 3-4 sets were synched well to each other. Lucky me :cool:

Anyway, is it possible (or recommended) to sync the carbs with the air box removed? Doing so would give me access to the other screws, I think.

In the Haynes manual under carb synchronization they photograph the carbs w/o the air box, yet the text doesn't instruct to remove the air box...

Any advice?

Thanks

Rob

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'97XX