FiXXation
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Posts posted by FiXXation
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Almost exactly a year later, the Sylvania Silver Star turn/run bulbs are still working fine, with no more fiddling necessary. The LED alternative is good to know, though. It looks like the prices have dropped quite a bit in the last year.
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Is there a gasket in the valve stem cap? Even if the core leaks a little due to the centrifugal force of the tire in motion, the cap gasket should hold the pressure.
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No problems here after 6 sets of tire changes.
Were you breaking an auto tire down? The bar pretty much hits the ground before I could do any serious damage on a MC tire.
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I've been noticing that fuel pressure regulators and petcock diaphrams seem to be reported to fail more frequently in the areas that use Ethanol in their gasoline.
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My '03 (original, no spacer, OEM shock) sits on both the side stand and the center stand with the rear suspension fully extended. Thus, no difference when adjusting the chain.
How would a swing arm stand cause the suspension to load enough to compress the shock spring with no rider aboard?
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Did ya change your sprockets too? If so what did you put on?
I put a new Honda OEM dampened 17-tooth on the front, and used the original rear. The old front sprocket still looked good, side-by-side with the new one, and the rear showed no wear.
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Do EK 530 ZZZ chains tend to whine more than others?
I am hearing it at 45 mph and above on the road, as well as on the center stand in 4th, 5th and 6th gears at elevated throttle openings.
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My 2003 was that way. I had to loosen the brake line block and reposition it a little to keep the line from pushing the fender into the tire after mounting the first set of Pilot Roads, as they were just a bit wider than the OEM Dunlops.
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The initial pin measurement was .210" before pressing the side plate down. The side plate went on so hard, that it may have very well removed some metal in the process, but I didn't do a starting measurement just before the staking.
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As hard as it was to press on, I don't think the side plate is coming off even with minimal flare.
This was my first attempt at putting a rivet link on, but I agree that the side plate installation pressure was so great that when the EK spacers went from moving to not-moving (touching the side plates), I almost couldn't get them out of the link. It took so much force, that I had no feel for when the side-play was used up.
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Has anybody found the recommended pin flare diameter for the EK 530 ZZZ rivet master link pins?
I could not find it in the info with either the chain or the master link. The vendor (solomotoparts.com) did not know, and I couldn't find anything on it on any of ekchain.com's FAQ's.
I ended up with .218" when the staking effort changed from hard to ridiculous with the RK Chain Rivet Tool.
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I searched, but it seemed all the install descriptions were on carb'ed bikes with more room and less wiring behind the I.P and headlights.
Post #32 on page 2 of this thread shows where I mounted the ballasts on my '03.
I've not felt them after operating for a while, but if they don't melt the double-sticky tape, I can't imagine they would melt plastic, either. Adding enough heat to shorten the life of the dash components might be another story.
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This is what the manual looked like that came with my McCulloch kit from Andy:
Front & back:
Pages 1 & 2:
Pages 3 & 4:
Pages 5 & 6:
I attached the ballasts to the frame just behind the oil cooler mounts on my '03, and have run them at 108*F this summer across the NM desert with no ill effects, so far. Since they get air from the front and have vents just below the mounting areas, I assume they get enough flow to cool them. I've also had no ignition problems (aside from sometimes forgetting to turn them on with the Euro light switch).
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I've seen the EK's described as chrome, nickel, and silver, so I don't know for sure which one parts411 actually had by their web site. I went ahead with the gold ZZZ from Solo Moto Parts, as they had the extra connecting links for it, and the RK chain tool as well.
Thanks for the input, guys.
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Well then, I guess it's more bucks at Solo Moto Parts for gold. :icon_think:
WhiteBuffaloRacing apparently doesn't carry the ZZZ. I guess heavy, 11,000 lb. chain isn't used much for racing?
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Are there any down sides to a chrome chain as opposed to a gold?
Are they heavier? Do they throw the lubricant off easier? Shorter life due to flaking?
parts411.com is only showing chrome rivet connecting links for the EK 530 ZZZ's at this time.
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Raising the forks in the triples will move the clip-ons back as they are moved up to the top of the tubes as shovelstrokeed stated he did. That should provide a little more dash clearance. It will, however, lower the front of the bike and change the steering geometry, which is a little beyond the original question.
YMMV.
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I'm not a battery engineer, either, but you might look at this:
Self-DischargeThe self-discharge rate is a measure of how much batteries discharge on their own. The Self-Discharge rate is governed by the construction of the battery and the metallurgy of the lead used inside.
For instance, flooded cells typically use lead alloyed with Antimony to increase their mechanical strength. However, the Antimony also increases the self-discharge rate to 8-40% per month. This is why flooded lead-acid batteries should be in use often or left on a trickle-charger.
from this site:
The self-discharge is expressed in a percentage of total capacity. From working with large banks of batteries in mainframe computer UPS systems, I believe that the larger the battery, the more amps you will have to routinely supply to replace the self-discharge and bring the battery up to 100%. The larger battery would indeed have more capacity, even after self-discharging, but it would still require more charging. Auto manufacturers are using smaller batteries to both lose pounds and to reduce load on the charging system, both of which contribute to better fuel economy. In an auto, the charging system is typically capable of handling additional load caused by putting a higher capacity battery in place of the small OEM one. On the Bird, my concern would be the additional load on the known weak charging system.
Any of you electrical engineers feel free to jump right in (or on).
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Others have pulled the clip-ons up on the fork tubes high enough for the indexing tab to clear it's slot without any reported problems (with proper re-torqueing to specification). You could do that, and rotate them forward until you encountered dash/fairing/windscreen inteference, but I don't think you would get too far.
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Has anybody used the EK 530 ZZZ chain, and if so, would you recommend it?
My original chain has developed tight links making setting the slack just about impossible after only 23,000 miles.
I am looking for one that will last longer.
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After putting the HIDs on the XX, I really wanted to put an H4 HID on my VTX1300. I looked at those bulbs and tried to imagine all the moving parts (I think the whole bulb does move in/out via a solenoid in the base) and electrical connections living happily on the front of that single crank pin V-twin motor and couldn't make myself go there.
I ended up with an Osram Sylvania Silver Star H4 instead. It's better, but no HID.
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The bulb's external electrodes on my McCulloch's were forced on top by the indexing tabs on the bulb bases.
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My guess is that unless you raise them substantially, you will nail the tank with them as you smash your thumbs. To keep that from happening, you would probably have to give up your rearward gains by rotating the ends away from you toward the front, straightening their relative angle to each other. You might also have to re-index them for the switch pods.
But, no, I haven't tried it.
Michelin Pilot Road tire question?
in The Garage
Posted
Those look pretty much like the three sets of Pilot Roads I have put on. Sometimes there is paint in the rub mark (to the left), and sometimes not. The wavy lines, are, IMHO, layup lines due to the way that Michelin builds their green tires before they are cooked. You will find that the rub mark goes away, but the layup lines will be slightly visible for the life of the tire (especially if you wash it and look for them).
I've balanced the bare wheels before mounting the tires, and in my limited experience, the PR's have needed very little, if any, adjustment after mounting. Some say that the bar code sticker on the tire bead should be lined up with the valve stem. I've lined it up, and not, with similar results.
I think the packaging/wrapping of the tires depends on where they were distributor sourced from originally. SWMotoTires.com sends them in a box also, but they may have different vendor wrapping and stickers on the individual tires.