Squareman357

My Zero G Sport Touring screen was thin. My AirBlade is close to stock thickness. It's almost 3 mm.

Now I was told NOT to do this. The system is sealed with a diaphragm in the reso to take up the air space as the pads get thinner. There should be plenty of room to compress the calipers, and put the new pads on, without opening the resovoir. I've changed my front pads once and my rears twice and I have never had to open the reso, nor have I ever had to remove my wheels to do so. The fronts were realtively easy, the rears I had to play with a bit to get the pads to seat properly, but I can do all three in less than an hour now.

Yeah John, that's pretty much his problem. Intermittant light flickering, some times turning on the turn signals makes the FI light go off for a while, but she's still running strong with no problems. Think it's just a grounding issue? If so, where should we start to troubleshoot that?

Hey Helvet my buddy is having funny problems with his FI light right now on his '99. What's the fix?

Considering your history with Do It Yourself, you might want to just let them do it.... :roll: :twisted:

Also running the Avon 45/46 combo. For my style of riding (semi aggressive, fast acceleration and braking, moderately aggressive in twisty conditions) I've not had a single problem with the Avons. No cupping, no slipping, great wear. I've got over 9K on the set I'm running now, which I put on brand new before I rode to California and back. I'm still running them. I run my pressures at 42F/42R and I think for now I'll stick with the Avons.

That is what happened to mine the 2 times it did it. I was actively in gear and the bike was pulling, then it popped back into neutral and as soon as I heard it rev I knew what happened, clutched in, and shifted back into second. Sounds like lazy shifting then. I'll have to make a better effort to positively engage second when I shift.

I could understand that if I stunted, but I don't. I've ridden fast before, and shifted fast, but always properly shifted gears and never had any issues. I don't do wheelies, so I'm not revving the hell out of it and dumping it while in second either. I ride pretty moderatelymost of the time and maintain her well.

Twice this year, in the roughly 14K miles that I've put on so far this year, after shifting up from first to second and applying a moderate amount of go juice, I have had the transmission slip out of second and into neutral. Only twice. Immediately after, I'd shift up and run hard up the gear to see if it would slip out again and it didn't. Since it has only happened twice, I thought maybe I shifted lazy and didn't quite get the gear to catch. It's definitely not a normal occurance. Something I should be wary of? SHould I order a clutch pack for standby? Or was it just a lazy shift?

+1 That's what's gone into mine the last 2 oil changes.

+1 on the EBC HH's. I switched to them from stock and I like how they feel a whole lot better than stockers.

It is. JB Weld. Tim you think that stuff will hold well enough for this? I thought about it but I wasn't sure if the bond would be strong enough. If so, what type should I get?

Interested. Looking for the discounted price as well.

Thanks man, I'll give him a call. Hopefully this is just a 5 minute job.

I'm definitely getting closer to this myself. I might just buy a kit and install one and keep a spare. We'll see.

Thanks tru and I truly appreciate the offer, but I am looking for a pull in service. Still trying to see if there is someone local who can do it for me for cheap before I let the stealer do it, if they can, and charge me and arm and a leg. I already gave those up for some gas.

John how does that compare with the stock bulb output in lumins?

Is the oil pan aluminum or steel?

Rich I've been looking at all the guys posts about HID too and really been giving it some thought. If that kit is a plug and play and I don't have to do any modding, I might be interested in splitting the kit with you. Waiting to see what the differences are between the various kits (6K, 8K, 10K etc).

Anyone know someone I can get to do a bit of welding? In my get off a couple months ago, the tab for the bottom center fairing bolt that attaches to the oil pan (?) on the right side broke off. I have the peice, and it's currently connected to a fairing bolt attached to the fairing, but lack of this mount causes the fairing to buckle a bit at the bottom, which makes the fit of the entire front fairing to be off. If anyone knows someone or can weld themselves, I'd pay to get this part welded back on so I can attach the right side fairing properly. It makes any work requiring the fairings off to be hellish due to trying to get everything back on. It's the last remnant from my crash and I'd like to get it fixed. Let me know. Thanks!

Went through 2 boxes of miscellaneous parts and I can't find any extra fasteners. THought I had at least one. Sorry bro. I do have 2 sets of front turn signal lenses though...fat lot of good that does LOL.

The Hayabusa has a 6.0 gallon fuel tank, the XX has a 5.8 gallon fuel tank. My '02 has a 6.3 gallon tank. At least that's what it says. I assume you mean that 5.8 of that is usable? I could swear I had more usable than a 'Busa.

Let me check the parts box when I get home. I MIGHT have one of these in there, but I'm not sure since some of those fasteners look the same. I'll let you know later this evening when I get home from work, unless someone else finds something out sooner. *Update. Got to work late this evening, so I won't be able to look in my parts bin until between 9:00 and 9:30 central...I'll let you know what I find in there, and maybe post up a couple of pics so you can tell me if they are the right ones.

I use the DLSB-500 Saddle Bags with the RTB-500 Rear Tail/Tote Bag that appear at the bottom of Motor Psycho's link. That was my rig when I went to Cali. You can pack 2 weeks worth of gear, tools, and equipment in those and never look back. Very nice set up.

Hey Artic... :needpics: Sounds trick, I'd like to see what the setup looks like...