Squareman357
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Posts posted by Squareman357
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Ok North...call me a dumbass. I'm looking at it but still not sure which bolts are which. I see one bolt on the bracket low on the fork, two bolts way up high on the fork, and I'm not sure if that bolt low near the hub is actually the pivot bolt or not. Looking at the digram in the Service Book and I see several bolts which look like they hold the assembly on., but it's hard to tell from the exploded picture.
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Front caliper, left side (from riders perspective). Ok...one bolt holding caliper on braket...two bolts holding caliper to fork. Gonna go out to the garage now and take a looksee. Back in a bit.
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Ok...so I decide since it's raining like a mofo to go ahead and get off my lazy ass and do some maintenance. Oil change and 4 quarts of Mobil 1 Red Cap (giving that a try this run to see if it's different from the Honda Synth), cleaned up the air filter element a bit, and finally replaced all the pads front and rear. With 7400 miles on her now (had 3 miles on her in February hehe) the fronts weren't bad and could have gone probably another 1000, but the rears were nearly shaved clean. Replaced all the pads pretty easy, once I loaded up the message board on the laptop out in the garage and checked the posts on how to do it. Really simple.
Ok. Here comes my fubar. There are these little boots on each caliper, I like to think of them as having a function like a CV boot. They cover a little stem that the caliper floats on which has some lube grease inside it. Problem is I pulled one off on accident. Yeah yeah, grabbed the wrong thing :razz: :devilfinger: . The boot has a small ridge on the inner portion to keep it in place and I can't get that past the caliper to reseat the boot. The whole thing is only about an inch long. Is there a special tool to get that back on, or will I have to remove the caliper to do so? If so, how do I go about removing the caliper, since I don't have clearance inside the rim to get to the 3 10mm bolts that I assume hold the caliper together. Any ideas?
As a side note, those EBC Sintered HH pads are nice. Even though they say they need about 250 miles of use to mate up with the rotors, I could already feel the enhanced grip during my test ride. I'll have to ride em in before I can really formulate an opinion, but I like so far.
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I bought a wrench type filter removal tool from Auto Zone. Works fine, though it scratches the filter a bit when I really snug it down. Cost like 4 bucks.
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How often should you bleed the clutch and replace the fluid? I've got an '02 bought new this year (leftover) with a smidge over 6K since breaking out in late February. Is it mileage based, year based, or what?
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I made sure to get the non Moly version of the Honda Synth. Maybe I'll change out for Mobil 1 Redcap for this next oil change and see if that makes a difference.
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Have any of you noticed any clutch slippage at higher speeds? I bought my bike as a leftover new '02. After I hit 4000 miles I changed over to Honda Synthetic. The other night I was out late with about 30 other bikes and we were far out on Interstate 57 at about 1 AM. As I shifted up to 6th and let the clutch out I noticed a bit of rev before the clutch fully engaged. It wasn't constant, but I heard it several times that night. This was usually at or approaching speeds over 150. I haven't heard or felt anything at more tame normal traffic speeds, only in the triple digits. Since I just came back from Myrtle Beach/Deals Gap, and I did some hard riding out there with a bunch of buddies and she didn't exhibit those symptoms out there, I was contemplating going back to regular dino for the next 2 to 3K and see what she does, but before I did, I wanted to find out if anyone had experienced similar shifting issues.
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Though it looks pretty catchy, I think that going from one level of brightness to another garners more attention. Your start pattern is fine, but if you can get the existing light pattern PLUS the extra lights to be 2 times brighter when applied, I think people will notice better. The turn signals should be fine as long as they are yellow.
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matey I saw that picture and have been trying to find out what mount that was for the longest time. IS that the u-bolt mount from GPS City? What bolts are you using to connect that to your clutch reso? Did they come with? Do you still have a part number for your part because that looks like the way I want to do it, unless the entire u-bolt can fit on my bars, but it doesn't look like I have the room for that.
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Pics and part numbers Steve? I still haven't mounted mine yet and my trip to Myrtle Beach is less than a month away.
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Jette hit me with those pics. I wasn't sure if I could go with that option because I didn't think I had enough room on the bar for that. Please post or send me some pics of yours mounted so I can see what the cockpit looks like with that mount. If it looks good to me, I'll go ahead and order the u-bolt mount and GPSCity brackets for mine too. Thanks!
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Nah...this was just as I was tooling around the block. I'm probably hallucinating (step AWAY from the crack pipe! :oops: ) but I thought I'd ask just to see. I'm about to take her out for a spin in a few and see how she feels today.
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Yesterday morning I changed the oil and filter. Took her for a ride to check for leaks after buttoning everything up. I noticed that 1st gear engine braking seems to be a lot stronger now. Is this something normal or am I just feeling something that isn't there? Bike was smooth and felt fine otherwise, just in 1st gear the engine braking seemed a lot more powerful. Dunno if it matters but I went from dino oil to Honda Synthetic and an O.E.M. Honda oil filter.
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Ok...showing my m/c ignorance here. I've been riding for 3 years and have bought new bikes every year since I started. Please explain (pics if possible) what cupping is. I haven't had the opportunity to see or feel that yet. Put 7K on my '95 GS500, then 10K on my '03 Katana 750, and now I've put a hair over 3K on my '02 Blackbird so though I have 20K miles under the belt, it hasn't all been on the same set of tires. I'd like to know so I can be aware of it (cupping) and what it means as far as performance and handling after it happens.
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New '02 (leftover) and I've put nearly 3K on the odometer. I run about 175 to 180 when rolling good, sometimes less if it is colder outside (she ran 160 one night recently coming home in sub 30 degree temps), she climbs up to a stable 220 when sitting at a light, but as soon as I get daylight and rip, she drops right back down to 175-180. Fan is on while stopped, but seems to go out once I get rolling good, if I'm matching sounds correctly at that speed.
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If it got hot wouldn't it tend to overflow if it is already at the hot mark when cold? When it does overflow, couldn't that then get on your rear tire? I don't know if I'd want to leave it over filled like that, just in case, but maybe I am just a worrier.
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I was told that if you are using the brush only on the sides of the chain then you wouldn't harm the o-rings. WD-40 and an old tooth brush on the sides has been my method too. Then spray it with some non-fling chain lube and I'm good to go.
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This sounds like a fluke, but somehow I caught a rock or something and it hit the left side exhaust pipes top spring and broke it clear off, either that or the spring was under too much pressure and broke of its own accord. Either way, it's gone. I rode like that 'til I got home (some nearly 700 miles on the day with NO idea when and where the spring broke off) and during my post ride inspection I noticed the spring was gone. The bottom spring is still there as are both springs on the ride side exhaust pipe. My questions are...
1. Until I can get a replacement spring, will this affect my exhaust in any negative way?
2. Can I ride with the top spring missing or should I wait until I get the replacement?
3. Can I even get replacement springs? This is a new Two Brothers stainless setup.
4. Just what purpose do these springs serve since the can is mounted to the bike via a metal band anyway? Please advise.
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LOL that's what I was just going to ask. I still have dual pipes. How often do they need repacking? Is it a difficult procedure? Roughly how much time does it take to do? Lastly, where do you get thefiberglass to repack it with? I'm not opposed to wrenching, in fact I enjoy it, so I have a decent assemblage of tools and what not from working on my car. Does it take any specialized tools?
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O.E.M. = Original Equipment Manufacturer
i.e. stuff that came on the bike when it was built.
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Mine is an '02. I need to check and see if it has an O2 sensor. I'll peep out the manual, but if I gotta go wrench to find out it'll have to wait til it gets a bit warmer or I buy a nice propane heater for the gee-rage.
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I was wondering about that. My dealer that installed my Two-Brothers full set up told me that the bike had an automatic enricher circuit (which according to Honda's website it does) and would adjust the fuel-to-air ratio accordingly to compensate for the new pipes, but that if I REALLY wanted to add power I should get a Power Commander and work to get it mapped for the new pipes and a K&N Airfilter. I wasn't sure about the enricher until I looked it up on Hondas site, but I still kept hearing that I needed to get a Power Commander if I got aftermarket pipes (full not slip ons) and/or a K&N Filter. Any other opinions on this?
Brake question...not the normal type...
in The Garage
Posted
LOL yeah I have the wrench :fingers: . I went back out right after I posted that and said fuck it, lets start removing shit. Pulled what I thought was the right three bolts and viola! Caliper assembly is off. Now, I can slide the caliper some, but not enough to get the outer assembly off the pin so I can put the boot back on. What am I missing?