ZedsDead

I'll take the fairing bracket, right side PM'd you.

Help keep me from buying another bike. Looking for an aftermarket shock (Ohlins, Penske, Wilburs) and a Givi Wingrack (side w/top case mounts). Givi bags would be a bounus. Must fit a 1997 blackbird.

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Bars and signals were on a 97 blackbird, windscreen is new For Sale -- all are best offer + shipping/handling from 98034 LSL handlebar kit, $75 OBO --- SOLD Smoke Turn Signal, OBO --- SOLD Windscreen Dark Tint, OBO. --- SOLD The screen has been stored for years, no big or deep scratches, looks more like fingerprints and 'swirl' marks. LSL Bars Turn Signals windscreen

Throttle cable adjustment fixed the problem. Thank you for the advice.

Installed VFR bars on a 97 blackbird. All seems to be good with one exception: turn bars to the right and RPMs increase. I've tried unsuccessfully so far to figure out how this is occurring and how to remedy it. Any help or advice would be great.

Do you have a picture of the clutch & brake levers? Are they aftermarket or painted OEM parts?

I have a 97 blackbird that currently has a Mototeck undertail on it. I prefer the look and function of the stock fender, tail light, and turn signals so I'm looking to see if someone has one laying around that they want to sell. If someone wants to trade it could be possible. I would require them to send me the stock one including tail light etc, give me a few days to install it, and then I could send said person my cut inner fender and the Mototeck undertail. Here's a link to a picture with the undertail: Mototeck Undertail

All fix and working like it should. Note: The Ricks RR is thicker than the OEM (all metal with cooling fins) which will require you to go out (local hardware store) and buy longer bolts. I used 8mmx30mm with a lock washer and appears to thread in about the same length as the OEM bolts w/ OEM RR.

Thank you for all the replies. Ordering a RR today most likely from Ricks as it seems a good place based on topics in this forum. I've considered the R1 RR however for ease of installation (no connector mis-match issues, etc) I think I'll go with the 'better than OEM' OEM style replacement. I'll post up the results once the job is completed and tested (~week). Again, thank you for the replies. Update/Edit: Ricks has them back ordered until mid to end July. Fortunately, DennisKirk is a retail distributor for Ricks and they were in stock. Part ordered and shipped, ETA this Friday.

1997 bird w/ 22k miles. Is it the stator or the RR Based on the following tests/information I'm thinking it's the RR but would like to see what others think Note: Multimeter used for following tests and results. Symptoms: Voltage at battery with engine at idle ~12.4 DC Volatage at battery with engine at 5k RPM ~12.6 DC Ride for ~15 miles with high beams on and the battery will be dead. Ride (commute) to work and back (20 miles RT) with just low beams on and the battery will maintain for a month. Tests & Results done: Remove stator to RR connection and tested for continuity between all three yellow wires: No Continuity Tested AC voltage with engine running between three yellow wires: 64 - 65 volts AC at 5k RPM Resistance between yellow wires: .5 Ohms (spec says .22 - .27) Continuity between yellow wires and ground (green) wire.

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