XX4me Posted March 2, 2004 Posted March 2, 2004 So I disassembled it. Could probably be done on the road without taking the fairing off using the large hex wrench in the tool kit except for the Gorrilla glue Honda used on the two hex bolts that hold the assembly to the steering head. Had to use a box end wrench for added leverage. Really pretty easy to fix once I got it loose as there aren't very many parts. After I got it apart I douched everything off with brake clean. In my case the tumblers weren't recessed far enough when the key was inserted to allow it to turn. So I used a small belt sander to gently remove the parts of the tumblers that protruded above the drum with the key in. Probably could have done it with a file. Then I coated everything with graphite and put it back together with a bit of blue lock-tite on the two hex bolts. Works like a charm now. Here are some pics of the insides. Step 1) Remove hex screws Step 2) Take out small philips screws, remove shroud, hole cover and spring, slide out tumbler assembly, lift out fork lock bolt and spring. Parts Tumbler assembly no key inserted Tumbler assembly key in after burr removal, nice and smooth. Quote
Pete in PA Posted March 2, 2004 Posted March 2, 2004 Thanks for the tech article. This should help those with ignition switch problems. This belongs in the important/useful section. Mine is still behaving. Quote
XX4me Posted March 2, 2004 Author Posted March 2, 2004 Same key I've been using all along. The edges were still very sharply defined. I think the starting problem came from a wearing down of the brass tumblers by the key. Quote
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