RichardCranium Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 Anything I should ask about or tips or things I definitely want to make sure I do? The shop is a 24x30 pole barn. I'm having a slab put in hopefully next week and the electrical sometime very soon I hope. I figure 2-3 recepticles on the long walls and 2 on the short wall. One recep where the garage door opener will be if I ever get around to putting one in. I plan on having it wired for 220 but I don't have anything that needs 220 right now so I don't think I'll put in a 220 outlet yet. I haven't really looked at lights but I figure on 4 good sized florescent shop lights and maybe some other misc lights here or there. Should I put the receps down like they are in a house or would they generally be better higher up like around 4 ft or so in a shop. Also for the time being there won't be any drywall. I guess I should look at putting a light or two on the outside as well. I also want to figure out some easy storage that is up high and out of the way for storing boxes of shit that doesn't get used very often like Christmas decorations etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 Remember this... it's easier to install it the first time, than it is to try and cut and fab. it in later. With that said... Recepticles are cheap... and extension cords just get in the way, so put lost and lots of them in, probably double whatever you were thinking. 16 " above the floor if it's going to be an open wall, and 4' off the floor if you ever plan on putting a work bench there works great. Plus one on each side of the garage door. 220... is a dream... when you're talking about air compressors and welders... so since you have the chance... put 2 recepticles in right off the bat. Lighting.... Florecent everything... and you can never have enough lighting.... again double whatever you were thinking.. inside and out. Just make sure you have multiple circuts and switches... so that you have a choice of of much you want to pay at the end of the month. ( I'll also add... I would also put some verticle lighting in if I were you... since you've got the chance... I retro fitted some into my Dads shop, and it works great. Basically they're 4' florecents mounted vertically, 2-4" off the floor, next to the garage door rails, and on beam post down the walls again 4" off the floor. What it does is, it gets rid of all of your shadows and almost completely emimnates the need for a drop light. ) Plus... it's a Barn/Shop... don't put up Dry wall... put up Plywood... that way you'll always have something to screw too.... just in case.... Later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman_40 Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 +1 to what Evlxx said... Your going to want a bench of some sort, put at least 3 plugs on different circuits above your bench. You'd be surprised how much power tools draw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02XXCA Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 Go with 30AMP circuits on your 120 volt receptacles as well. Put some receptacles on the ceiling in case you ever want to do a drop light with cord spool. Think about a few extra light box's on the outside for lighting additions as well as outdoor receptacles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beondwacko Posted March 18, 2008 Share Posted March 18, 2008 Go with 30AMP circuits on your 120 volt receptacles as well. Put some receptacles on the ceiling in case you ever want to do a drop light with cord spool. Think about a few extra light box's on the outside for lighting additions as well as outdoor receptacles Ummmmm, no. That is on the 30A recepticles arguement. You show me a device that draws more than 20A at 110V that is portable. You won't find one. Here's the deal. 24 X 30 workshop. These are just suggestions based on experience. 1. Supply. If you can spare the current from the house, run a 50-60 amp supply to a 8-12 space sub-panel. If the run is short (45 feet or less overall) you can run 3 6ga(hot legs and neutral), & 1 8ga (ground). If the distance is longer than 50 feet , I'd go with 3 4ga & 1 8ga. Be sure to double check your local Reg's for hte official rules of the township/county. Local code always superceeds National Electrical Code. 2. Circuits. 1 for overhead lighting(15a), 3 for wall outlets (20A), and provisions for a 30A 220V recipticle, 1 15a circuit for exterior lighting /outlets. 3. Lighing. Figure 5 watts of lighitng per sq/ft & use the electronic T-8 fixtures. They will go instant on with out flicker even in low temps. Just my $0.02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vetteman Posted March 18, 2008 Share Posted March 18, 2008 Recepticles every 4 feet on the inside and 1 by every door outside. I like all of my inside ones to be up high just in case you end up putting a bench where you didnt think you would. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardCranium Posted March 18, 2008 Author Share Posted March 18, 2008 Thanks guy. Good info. 3. Lighing. Figure 5 watts of lighitng per sq/ft & use the electronic T-8 fixtures. They will go instant on with out flicker even in low temps. Just my $0.02 The electrician was out earlier to look the place over and see what I wanted and that is the type of lighting he recommended. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airborneXX Posted March 19, 2008 Share Posted March 19, 2008 I'm grounded at the panel in the house and have 2 ground rods in the garage. Why, because that's what the inspector wanted and when he came out he never even checked 32x30 building 100 amp service. I've got 6 - 8' flourescents, 3 - 20 amp 110v recepticals on each wall and 2 - 30 amp 220v recepticals, one on the front wall and one on the back for the welder. All 4' high. I've got two lights in each bay. They are switched in pairs and on 3 way switches, so I'm not walking from one end to the other to switch the lights on and off. I wired two fancy lights on the outside to make the wife happy and rigged a photocell/motion detector up high in the peak so they would go on and off together. I also had to put the recepticals on GFCI's which were driving me crazy so I took them out after inspection. My next projects will be more lighting and heat. Oh and I also wish it was twice the size. I had no idea that motorcycles multiplied Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardCranium Posted March 21, 2008 Author Share Posted March 21, 2008 Holy fucking shit fuck! I just got the quote back. This is from a friend even. He said he didn't even want to call me because it was so high. $3872 Thats for wire to a panel in the shop. 13 outlets and 3 8' lights. Also included two outside flood lights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardCranium Posted March 21, 2008 Author Share Posted March 21, 2008 OK help me out. I'm looking at doing all/most of this myself at least to compare cost. The electrician was going to use EMT. Any thoughts on EMT vs PVC vs Alflex? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vetteman Posted March 21, 2008 Share Posted March 21, 2008 Can you use Romex in your area? Prices have skyrocketed recently along with scrap metal & everything else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted March 21, 2008 Share Posted March 21, 2008 Holy fucking shit fuck! I just got the quote back. This is from a friend even. He said he didn't even want to call me because it was so high. $3872 Thats for wire to a panel in the shop. 13 outlets and 3 8' lights. Also included two outside flood lights. Hence why I do most all of this type of shit myself.... and... why I wish gas prices and the economy wasn't so jacked..... otherwise I'd come down and help you install it... Same goes for the Concrete as well... and the ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardCranium Posted March 22, 2008 Author Share Posted March 22, 2008 Can you use Romex in your area? Prices have skyrocketed recently along with scrap metal & everything else. I live in the woods. I could use knob and tube if I really wanted to. The guys showed up to build the shop and said: "Do you have a building permit?" Me: "No." Them: "OK." I picked up a home wiring book tonight. I should go stay in a Holiday Inn Express and read it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vetteman Posted March 22, 2008 Share Posted March 22, 2008 The book was a great idea if you're not familiar with wiring. Its really not as hard as most people think, you're a smart guy you'll pick it up quick enough. Most recepticles (probably all) are labeled for the black & white wires too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman_40 Posted March 22, 2008 Share Posted March 22, 2008 90% of the work doing electrical is what we call grunt work. Pulling wires, drilling holes to put the wires in, mounting boxes, etc. Even if you don't feel comfortable doing the hook ups anyone can mount the boxes where you want them, and get the wires to them. I'd recommend having your electrician friend have a look at the pannel and your work if you do it all yourself. It is all pretty basic for home wiring and I'm sure you can do it yourself but better to be safe than sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beondwacko Posted March 27, 2008 Share Posted March 27, 2008 OK help me out. I'm looking at doing all/most of this myself at least to compare cost. The electrician was going to use EMT. Any thoughts on EMT vs PVC vs Alflex? Sorry, I lost track (forgot) about this thread. Yeah,,,,,,,, copper is very high $$$ now and days. That price doesn't seem too out of line though. If you have any relationship with the electrician, you can save some money by doing a majority of the interior work yourself and have him do the "finish"(wire the outlets, panels, etc). If i had the choice, I'd go with PVC over EMT. It's easier to work with, and won't ever rust. I assume that the shop is not going to have a finished interior. If it was, then wire it with romex. The other person wired his shop with 3 way lighing,,,,, good idea with multiple exits! As for the grounding, you can ground the shop either from the house, or at the shop or even both locations. Ask the electrician what local code is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airborneXX Posted March 27, 2008 Share Posted March 27, 2008 I used PVC for the underground run from the house to the garage. Inside I ran Romex. IIRC I had about $1000 in materials and that was in 2002. My run from the house to the garage was about 25 feet, with a 7' long trench from the house to the garage. While the trench was open I threw in direct burial phone line which carries the phone, fire, and burgular alarm. You may also want to run a cable line out there. Do it now while it's opened up! Oh yeah and I also ran a water line and put floor drains in. Very cheap to do now, even if you never use it, at least you have the option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardCranium Posted March 27, 2008 Author Share Posted March 27, 2008 I threw in direct burial phone line which carries the phone, fire, and burgular alarm. You may also want to run a cable line out there. Do it now while it's opened up! Good idea. I figured I would just use a cordless that is registered to a base at the house but having a line would be much better. New questions. Can you just throw all that shit in the same trench without having issues with electrical interference from the power cables? Also did you just put the water line in the same trench? The electrician is a friend and I told him I would do as much of the grunt work as possible with him as my consultant to keep me from doing it wrong. That is going to make a huge difference. Also he is getting an ok deal on some aluminum 2g so the cable cost will be better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airborneXX Posted March 27, 2008 Share Posted March 27, 2008 Check with local codes on running the electric and water in one trench, but around here it's okay to stack them. 3' for water (to get below the frost line) and 18" for electric. I have no interference with the phone. Phone line is direct burial and the electric is in the conduit. I didn't run cable as I have no desire to watch television out there. My water is in a separate trench as it was done later on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beondwacko Posted March 29, 2008 Share Posted March 29, 2008 Run poly line for the water too. It won't burst if it freezes. True for what was mentioned that the water line ( or at least a residential main line ) is supposed to be 3 feet deep. If you are going to be using a trencher, go for 3 feet of depth, drop the water line in , backfill 12-16 inches then drop in the conduit for the electrical. Was it ever mentioned if the shop was going to have a finished interior? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardCranium Posted March 29, 2008 Author Share Posted March 29, 2008 Run poly line for the water too. It won't burst if it freezes. True for what was mentioned that the water line ( or at least a residential main line ) is supposed to be 3 feet deep. If you are going to be using a trencher, go for 3 feet of depth, drop the water line in , backfill 12-16 inches then drop in the conduit for the electrical. Was it ever mentioned if the shop was going to have a finished interior? It will probably be somewhat finished someday...just not soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardCranium Posted April 7, 2008 Author Share Posted April 7, 2008 Progress: http://www.blackbirdpilot.com/coppermine/a...01/DSCF0205.jpg - big pic http://www.blackbirdpilot.com/coppermine/a...01/DSCF0206.jpg - big pic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcrich Posted April 8, 2008 Share Posted April 8, 2008 Which Cub Cadet mower is that? I just bought one over the weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardCranium Posted April 8, 2008 Author Share Posted April 8, 2008 Which Cub Cadet mower is that? I just bought one over the weekend. LT1050 50" deck 26hp Kohler Its been a really good mower. I just wish I had the high back seat. The low seat kills my back mowing the 1.6 acres. Parts of the yard are really rough. I noticed the new ones all seem to have the higher back seat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcrich Posted April 8, 2008 Share Posted April 8, 2008 LT1050 50" deck 26hp Kohler Its been a really good mower. I just wish I had the high back seat. The low seat kills my back mowing the 1.6 acres. Parts of the yard are really rough. I noticed the new ones all seem to have the higher back seat. Nice, I got the LT1046, with the 46" deck and 23hp Kohler. Used it for the first time last night, seems to work real nice. The guy that did the landscaping for me cuts a few of my neighbors grass, he said he liked them too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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