SLY DVL

In an effort to free up about 60 watts (and to try and look cool) I fabbed my own LED tail/brake lamp for my 01 XX. Started with an LED lamp from a 2008 Toyota Rav4. Easy to find and has all the necessary parts, including the circuit board. Separating the LED's from the housing was a little tricky, but a dremel made quick work of it. Once removed I had to cut the metal stamping to make it fit the XX housing, and then solder the stamping back together. Pretty simple. The upper set took very little to modify, the lower was a little more work. A slight mod to the printed circuit board to make it fit inside with everything else, and then just wire it up. I used the OE light bulb socket and just soldered the circuit board wiring directly to it, then filled it with hot glue. These LED's are plenty bright enough since they're out of a vehicle, and the board gives them the dual intensity you need for tail/brake. The further away from the lens you place them, the more the pattern is diffused, eliminating spotting. Running light: Brake light: I added in a programmable modulator that flashes the light before it comes on steady, making it VERY obvious that I'm on the brakes.

I loaded the top case & side bags up pretty good this summer on several trips and nothing shows any signs of wear or fatigue. At this point, I'm quite happy with the setup.

I can't say for sure how much more stable they are compared to the Givi racking, since this is the first set of hard luggage I've had. It does seem however, to be VERY rigid when riding. I haven't loaded them to capacity yet though. The top case has a little more flex then I would like, but that's in the case itself, not the rack. The top rack is one solid piece so no welds to fatigue. There's one more bracket that I haven't installed yet that goes from side to side under the lic. plate for the side bags. Since I chopped my rear fender I need to mod. that bracket for final fitment. Twisted Throttle is the North American distributor for SW Motech out of Germany.

+1 - We stayed there for 2 or 3 nights mid-week (in 2008) and qualified for the "Dragon Slayer Discount". Will be going back again this summer and hoping for the same courtesy & pricing. Two thumbs up from me.

Guess this is a good a place as any to post this. Just thought I'd share my experience with my recently purchased Givi side luggage & Give top case & the SW Motech racking system. I like the Givi luggage, but Givi's racking system for the XX is hideous (IMO) with the bags removed. SW Motech makes a VERY nice product that looks much more appealing with the bags removed. And, the bonus is that the rack removes in about 30 seconds (both sides) leaving nothing but a few small latch points behind. Pricing for the SW Motech racking is comparable the the Givi rack. Installation was straight forward, with minimal tools required. They come with signal relocation brackets, but since I bobbed my signals there is enough clearance for the luggage without any mods. The following are pics with no rack, rack, rack & luggage etc.

Since the bike cranks (I assume it cranks) but won't fire I think we can rule out the kickstand circuit as a problem. If it were a kickstand circuit problem then it shouldn't crank at all. Fuel pump relay (or fuel pump) and bank angle sensor would be suspect in my mind. Sam, you need to check some things before you go throwing any more parts at it. Playing the parts game can become very expensive.

That would be the next thing to check. Test it, or swap it out with a known good one. Putting used parts in is fine, as long as you know that the used part is a good one...

Assuming your 99 has the same FI logic as my 01: If your kill switch is in the off position the FI light will remain on, constantly. Flip the switch to "run" and the pump relay should click & the pump should run for 2 seconds, followed by the FI light going out. What I'm saying is if your FI light goes out 2 seconds after you switch to run, then you can rule out your switch as the problem. As mentioned, do you hear the relay clicking on, and then off 2 seconds later after flipping the switch to the "run" position?

Hmmmmmmmm....... interesting information guys. I wouldn't have though that going UP in teeth would have been the ideal but it sounds like that may be the direction to head. I was thinking a little more "get up and get going" but if going up a tooth in front won't loose any real accel then maybe, just maybe.... The 1/4 mile results speak for themselves. Just out of curiosity what do you/did you run in the 1/4 and what's done to your XX? K

Has anyone played with going down a tooth on the front sprocket? I'm aware of the ratio changes but curious about the results. K

Not that this is exactaly what you're describing, but I thought I'd throw it out before you noticed it, since it sounds like you're an observant individual. Starting in '01 (I think) the clutch switch (which was probably the clicking you heard) also acts as an ECM input. You'll notice that when you're in gear and just before the point of engagement the RPM will rise slightly in anticipation of the load. K

So what sprocket does the XX come with stock? I've been toying with the idea but haven't made ans serious inquiries about it. Did you go up from stock or down? K

+1 K

My understanding of the link system was - when braking with the rear only all pistons on the rear caliper are applied but only 1 on the l/f caliper causing one pad to wear at an angle. K

Dave, Got my lowering brackets today; they look great! With some minor filing of the OE foot rest to get the angle I wanted they bolted right up. Now I just need some warmer weather, eh! Thanks for all the effort you put into this. Kev