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Posts posted by John01XX

  1. Received my new AntiGravity Lithium-ion battery with "restart" technology.

    Came with a notice plus they told me verbally before buying the batter, that the battery arrives with a reduced charge and must be initially charged with an appropriate LIFEPO4 charger.
    It spent about an hour on my Optimate lithium charger and now shows 13.6 volts. I should have but forgot to read voltage right out of  the box.
    At 360 CCA it spins the XX starter motor crazy fast. Starts instantly.
    At $179 It better outlast the 18 year old Bird!

  2. 6 hours ago, SwampNut said:

    Also the auto-disconnect won't help with just self-discharge.  Only for the bike having a vampire draw.  What is that on the BB?  Seems like it should be super low?


    According to the manufacture the auto-disconnect is set at 12.4 volts regardless of what draws it down or how fast it is drawn down. Designed specifically to prevent a dead battery from long periods of time with no use.  Since lithium batteries have virtually no natural drain-down time after sitting for months when disconnected, the self discharge from the bike is suppose to  cause the auto-disconnect to happen and then hold the 12.4 volts indefinitely or for at least a year or so they claim.

  3. 15 hours ago, redxxrdr said:

    Thank you for all the information.

    i really appreciate the charging info.  Some brands recommend their own special charger.  But internal balancing circuits make sense.


    I already have a mosfet r/R installed.

    But life has limited riding.

    The slow discharge rate should help, until I can ride more.


    Now I can make a more educated choice.



    The new Anti-Gravity Restart has a built in circuit that cuts off all output as if battery is disconnected when the voltage drops below 12.4 volts. I spent the extra money on this model for that reason since I don't ride the Bird much these days. It cuts off before it drains down below the level to restart the bike. I am told that the worst thing for a lithium battery to experience is low voltage, below 11 volts. Can be instant death. Unlike an AGM where low voltage deaths can many times be rejuvenated, the Lithium not so much. I believe that is what killed my 5 year old Scorpion. To reset the Anti-Gravity after it has cut-off is simple with a push of a button. Crank it up and ride it a bit to recharge the lithium back up its normal 14+ Volts.
    Hoping to be the last battery I will ever buy for the Bird.

  4. My Scorpion Lithium has died!  Bought in 2013. 
    Discovered that he cost has gone up in the past 5 years according to Battery Stuff, due to tariffs.
    I paid 139.99 back in 2013 and now they want 169.99.
    Looking at other options and the new supposed latest and greatest is the "Anti-Gravity Restart".

    It has a built-in circuit that cuts power to the bike if the battery falls below 12.4 volts. If you forget and leave the key on or have accessories draining on it, the battery will automatically shut down all power output until you press a reset button to turn it back on while it still has plenty of power to start your bike. If your bike has its battery buried somewhere Anti-Gravity offers a key fob button to reset the battery. Cool option but not sure how practical? Cost is 199 for the Anti-gravity.

    I have found most lithium batteries have a 3 year replacement warranty. I few have 5 year.


    Edited: Battery Stuff offers the Anti-Gravity for $179.99 and free shipping and no tax.
    Leaning in that direction. Haven't found any Lithium models under $144.99 for the YTX14S size.
    For the 35.00 cost difference I will try the "Restart" feature since the Bird does not get out regularly.

    360 CCA


  5. 7 minutes ago, jon haney said:

    At worst, I would think the extra oil would just run over the relief valve, robbing HP and further heating the oil.  Since the Bird only has a single rotor oil pump, I'm assuming there is an internal orifice that limits the amount of oil that can go to the cooler, and the rest goes to the engine.  If all oil goes through the cooler before it goes to the engine, this thread would be 8 years old by now, and would likely had to rebuild an engine.


    Basically, I'm replacing the trans on the Drag-Bird to a stock unit, and re-installing the balancer shafts.  As I'm cleaning the lower case half, I pop out the seals (or so I thought) for the oil cooler lines.  Then I remember there were already o-rings on the tubes.  What I pulled out was a couple of top-hat style rubber plugs like you might use to keep out dirt and debris, while you do other stuff.  Both plugs are completely intact, and the cooler line connections never leaked.  Being a race bike, I never ran it long enough to over heat the oil.  Crank bearings (factory original) look fantastic.  IDK



    Sounds to me like you discovered an inside trick to win more races!
    You should get rid of the oil cooler completely for a reduction in weight and then put her back together and run a few more passes to set some new personal best times ! More trophy's - more wins with your new secret formula!


    • Like 1

  6. 3 hours ago, sluggo49 said:


    I like the frame plugs, too. But I'm on the fence about plugging the frame with the black plugs. Stuff that's hidden tends to get neglected in my world. And I still need to disassemble my swingarm.

    They come off and go back on easy peasy with a small dab of RTV Silicone.
    I have had my aluminum frame plugs off and back on a couple times. I was told to be careful about corrosion behind the frame plugs but it has not been a problem in over 10 years now.

  7. 5 hours ago, jon haney said:

    Make sure it's RTV type silicone.  I lost the small left one the first time I went to the track, because I used bathroom silicone.  It gets soft (no holding power) when the frame warms up.

    So You are the reason I am short the small left one !! 🙂 

    Yes RTV Silicone

    • Like 1

  8. 3 hours ago, sluggo49 said:

    Those are nice!


    Yea they were selling like hotcakes back in the day! 

    Back then I worked for a large manufacturing plant that gave me free access to CNC machines and robotics.

    No setup fees or program writing costs plus the aluminum material was very cheap. 
    I made up and sold over 500 pairs of them but the last run of 50 pairs took me over a year to sell out.

    I no longer work for that company so they are no more 😞 


    I also made up some cool aluminum frame plugs that also matched the dimpled fairing bolts.

    I still have a few of them left over except that as a set of four I only have 3 ! I am missing the smaller plug on the left side.
    If someone has them installed like I do on my bird and loose one, if it is not the left small one I have replacements for the other three!

    Here is a pic of the partial set of three.




  9. You don't "need" either.
    The shrooms were designed to protect the side plastics in the case of a tip over or dropped bike while stopped or moving very slowly such as turning in a parking lot. The sliders are designed to protect the plastics in a low side crash. 
    Personally i haven't seen much of an advantage to having frame sliders in the event of a "street" crash. On the track were bike often just slide to a stop is where they are most effective. The Shrooms only provide protection if the bike tips over when stopped or at, pushing the bike speeds.
    Most track bike have sliders and so it is cool to have them on your street bike.

    In my experience I have always slipped and dropped my bike at least once trying to back up or stopping on uneven surfaces. I have owned my new FJR over a year now and did drop it once turning around at a park with a spot of soft sand that washed the front tire out from under me! 
    Most people did not want to drill holes in factory plastics for the frame sliders. As a result Jaws created the "Shrooms".

    Just my opinion.

    • Upvote 1

  10. 2 hours ago, sluggo49 said:

    Thanks for clarifying.

    I hate the notion of my bike floppin' over, but those just look ugly to me.


    Each to his/her own, I guess.

    I use to carry some very cool looking aluminum shrooms that were milled to the same shape and design of the dimpled fairing bolts.
    Sold out many years ago and never had any more made up due to lack of demand.

  11. 1 hour ago, snowranger said:

    OK.  Thanks.


    My question then is how in the world do you manage to hold the spacer in place once the fairing is on again and there's no finger clearance?  Glue it to the engine block?  It's pretty difficult for me to keep the spacer in place while I install the engine mount bolt before replacing the fairing.  What's the trick?

    There should be a little lip cut in that aligns the spacer. Add a small dab of silicone.


  12. 27 minutes ago, XXBirdSlapper said:

    Just an fyi John, the website is not working for me, using phone access.

    Thanks, but I knew that.

    It has been down for well over a month. 

    I need to make the call and stop paying $39.99 a month for the ecommerce store and just keep it as a static site. I don't sell enough every month to justify the monthly cost. I sell most everything on Amazon now. Doing well over $1000 per month now on Amazon.
    For BlackBird items I deal with people via PM, email and Paypal invoices and will be adding Google pay as well and dumping the ecommerce expense.

  13. As you mentioned, if you are looking for tip-over protection, there is no real need for frame sliders or cutting holes in the plastics.

    Many Bird owners install what are referred to as tip-over "Shrooms" verses frame sliders.

    Check them out here: http://bikebits.us/cbr1100xx-blackbird-products-c14/


    I have a pair of the R&G Frame Sliders installed on my 01 Bird. Yes I had to cut the holes and yes they have to be removed to take off the panel. I have had no problem with the spacer falling out when the slider is removed but can be refitted without to much trouble if they do come out.






  14. Truck question for a buddy of mine who just bought a new Ram Quad Cab Long Bed truck today.

    His old 97 Ram 1500 has been beat up pretty good in the construction industry but still runs reliably.

    The only issue is that the automatic transmission seems to hesitate when first trying to go and then clunks into gear and operates just fine throughout all gears. It only does it a couple times when cold and seems to fix itself when the tranny warms up. Just happens a couple times in the first 10-15 minutes in the mornings after sitting overnight. The transmission was serviced at Dodge about 18-20 months ago and this just started happening in the last month.

    From a stand still it seems to not want to go into gear initially and then clunks into gear hard.

    Any wild guesses or experience with a 97 Ram 1500 transmission?

    V8 motor.