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John01XX

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Posts posted by John01XX


  1. Two pictures I took today.
    Brake lights on, and one with the left signal on and the other with the right signal on.
    I hung a gallon bottle of vinegar on the foot brake lever to show the brightness of the brake lights.

     

    Left.jpg.85d6683591635ff9538965765c021bfb.jpgRight.jpg.0bc5064d2e7ff19be24de364f05c5a19.jpg


  2. 6 hours ago, cally4x4 said:

    Very nice I really like it shame I can’t find any uk stockiest but as it’s a all in one unit might be worth the extra costs and time

    It cleans up the tail nicely.
    I like how it looks on my Candy Glory Red BlackBird!

    I am moving some bikes around in my garage today so will take a pic of it and post it here.

     


  3. 26 minutes ago, cally4x4 said:

    Thanks for the reply 

    is yours the standard shape but with a clear lens?


    The Clear Alternatives Integrated taillight was the factory Shape but with a large LED printed circuit board inside that replaced the bulbs. 
    jaws-motorcycles.co.uk also made an LED taillight that had the XX pattern in LEDs bright.

     


  4. 3 minutes ago, superhawk996 said:

    Try holding the clutch 1-2 seconds before pressing the shifter, you might find that it has very little clunk.

     

    My aftermarket linkage should have no effect, as long as it's giving a complete stroke on the pushrod.  But, it's possible that the clutch assembly itself has some custom stuff too.

     I will consciously do that the next ride to see if it still clunks as bad.

    Good tip to try.

     


  5. 29 minutes ago, superhawk996 said:

    Your '01 has a different clutch than the earlier models, specifically changed to reduce the clunk.

    I am aware that the 01 is suppose to be improved to reduce the clunk, I was just throwing my opinion out there as it still has a much more noticable clunk into gear than does my FJR or my GSXR or my SV650 or or or..... 
    I personally just settled with the fact that the Bird has a very clunky shifter. I have not been easy on the clutch with multiple trips to Pennsylvania and doing over 30 passes on the drag strip there and then returning home to Florida. 
    I assume yours is eceptionally loud and clunky since it is not a factory set up to begin with.

     

    Over the years I have tried many different oils with the same results. I even spent he money on fancy Repsol MotoGP oil one time! I think I paid about $16 a quart just to see if it made a difference? It did not. tried Amsoil, Honda OEM, Yamalube, Mobile 1, Castrol, etc and always seem to return to whatever is on sale in the correct viscosity range and full synthetic and change it out at approx 4000 mile intervals. I could go a lot longer interval but my piece of mind says 4000 works for me. Being in South Florida heat I like to run a viscosity of either 10/15/20 - 50.

     

     

     


  6. 12 minutes ago, redxxrdr said:

    Ahhh

    A whole bike.

    Not ready for another one yet.😁

     

    I have Nikki's Ninja on my trailer right now. Trying to get it running again.

    Kirsten still riding the SV.

    But thanks.

    It sure is pretty.

     

    Do you remember the name of the company that could

    Rebuild them?

    No clue on the name any more.

     


  7. 2 minutes ago, redxxrdr said:

    2001 up XX cluster.

    The fuel / odo side is fading.

    I pulled it down, and that lcd does not look to be replaceable.

     

    Thanks,

    Craig

    Mine did the same thing last year and Joe was able to fix me up with a used replacement. Not sure if they are even available anymore from Honda but if so they are stupid expensive like $8-900.00!

    I did a bunch of research and found a company in Michigan, I think it was, that rebuilds the LCD screens on Corvette's. It can be rebuilt but if my memory serves me it was gonna run about $250.00 plus shipping and a 6+ week lead time.

    You should just buy the 2001 that is for sale cheap in North Carolina!

     

    • Like 1

  8. 8 minutes ago, superhawk996 said:

    I've extracted a few keys with a pick.  Two picks, one on each end of the key, often works better.

     

    As for removing the assembly, I don't think you'll need to remove the tank.  If the piece of key is in the right position you should be able to turn it with a screwdriver or other tool to open it.  It might be worth trying this before trying to extract the key in case you can't get it out.  Trying to extract might move it out of position forcing tank removal.  The piece of key might be able to move further in, not sure if it bottoms out on the key tip or the 'flat' near the key handle, so be careful with the screwdriver.

    I have seen this done as well, instead of using a screwdriver what about the broken off key base as the screwdriver?
    If all else fails just take the whole bike to the locksmith or have a mobile locksmith stop by and extract the key remains.  Don't waste time with the tank removal.

     

    • Upvote 1

  9. 3 hours ago, jon haney said:

    Even if you're doing track days, I recommend a Q3 front with a Roadsmart rear.  Plenty of grip for 99% of your riding, plus wet weather capability and decent mileage.  If you're looking for maximum mileage, I'm not the guy to ask. 😁

    The Q3 is no more, very old and outdated now.
    The Q3 Plus and the Q4 have replaced it.


  10. I may have found the answer.

     

    i went into my passwords on my iCloud account and saw the .org listed twice with the same password. I deleted one and refreshed the other and when I went to go back in it asked me to log in again but showed a little pop up with a key pictured.

    tapped the key and it auto filled and let me in.

    seems now it is working as it should again.

    hopefully all straightened out.

    I am sure it is operator error!

     

    this new XS is amazing and looking forward to playing with the camera.


  11. 11 minutes ago, SwampNut said:

    There is a checkbox on the login page to keep you logged in.  There's the ability to save logins to your keychain and/or iCloud account which provides credentials automatically for any site or app.  You should use both.

     

     

    I am aware of the check box and have checked it off each time so I am assuming that I am not saving the login to my keychain and/or iCloud account.
    That is what I am trying to figure out how to use.


  12. I got my new XS yesterday and it is doing the same thing as my 6S did.

    Everytime I go to the .org in Safari it says 

    "You do not have permission to view this content"

    (Existing user? Sign in)

    I think it is a setting that needs to be changed but haven't found where or how to save log-in info?

     

     


  13. Just started to happen the last couple days with my iPhone 6S.

    Everytime I open the .org app on my iPhone it requires me to log in even though i have checked to box "remember my log-in"

    I am getting a new iPhone XS delivered today so it may not matter but was just wondering if this is happening to anyone else lately.
    Seems fine on my PC running Windows 10 Pro with Chrome.


  14. 1 hour ago, racer212 said:

     

    Just sold it 5 minutes ago - guy hasn't even picked it up yet and I'm regretting it. I'm also just not riding it - and now with my 5 five bikes I really didn't have the space.

     

    Back to the goodies.

     

    The Akra I noticed doesn't have the "decal" on it anymore. I believe I have metal Akra labels in my box of much misc.  I've had this several years wrapped in bubble wrap always with the intent of installing on old blue - just never did it. Can, header etc are all complete and looks ready to install.

     

    Corbin seat is in good condition but dusty. I'll wipe it off and take some pics later today.

     

    Still not sure what the correct pricing is for this stuff. I'm thinking $700 for the full exhaust and $250 for the seat?

     

    Good Prices.
    That is better than 50% off current prices.


  15. Looking at reviews has convinced me to skip any of the above listed horns on Amazon!
    I bought one of these and mounted it on the Yamaha FJR1300 using the stock hardware.

    easy unplug and unbolt, swap horns and rebolt and plug in, done 

    Not super load but a big improvement on the stock meep-meep sound.
    A plus that the name is ZKXX !

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/12V-30W-Single-Sound-Auto-Car-Snail-Horn-Waterproof-Electric-Loud-Air-Siren-for-Vehicle-Motorcycle/32832228704.html?spm=2114.search0302.3.90.74981c3drKtWlX&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_0_10130_453_454_10618_536_10890_317_537_319_10059_10696_10084_10083_10547_10546_10887_10307_321_10548_322_10065_10068_10103_10884_10545,searchweb201603_0,ppcSwitch_0&algo_pvid=9daa9489-5195-4a67-8b22-e220f5fdaa17&algo_expid=9daa9489-5195-4a67-8b22-e220f5fdaa17-11

     

    Think I will do the same on the Civic. Was looking for something louder but everything I see is cheap made junk with bad reviews.

     

    I miss my Nathan real train horn that I had installed on my Rideline with separate compressor and 3 gallon tank. But that was $1,500.00 in cost.
    I still have the compressor and tank for some future install. 

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