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John01XX

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Posts posted by John01XX


  1. 1 hour ago, racer212 said:

     

    Just sold it 5 minutes ago - guy hasn't even picked it up yet and I'm regretting it. I'm also just not riding it - and now with my 5 five bikes I really didn't have the space.

     

    Back to the goodies.

     

    The Akra I noticed doesn't have the "decal" on it anymore. I believe I have metal Akra labels in my box of much misc.  I've had this several years wrapped in bubble wrap always with the intent of installing on old blue - just never did it. Can, header etc are all complete and looks ready to install.

     

    Corbin seat is in good condition but dusty. I'll wipe it off and take some pics later today.

     

    Still not sure what the correct pricing is for this stuff. I'm thinking $700 for the full exhaust and $250 for the seat?

     

    Good Prices.
    That is better than 50% off current prices.


  2. Looking at reviews has convinced me to skip any of the above listed horns on Amazon!
    I bought one of these and mounted it on the Yamaha FJR1300 using the stock hardware.

    easy unplug and unbolt, swap horns and rebolt and plug in, done 

    Not super load but a big improvement on the stock meep-meep sound.
    A plus that the name is ZKXX !

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/12V-30W-Single-Sound-Auto-Car-Snail-Horn-Waterproof-Electric-Loud-Air-Siren-for-Vehicle-Motorcycle/32832228704.html?spm=2114.search0302.3.90.74981c3drKtWlX&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_0_10130_453_454_10618_536_10890_317_537_319_10059_10696_10084_10083_10547_10546_10887_10307_321_10548_322_10065_10068_10103_10884_10545,searchweb201603_0,ppcSwitch_0&algo_pvid=9daa9489-5195-4a67-8b22-e220f5fdaa17&algo_expid=9daa9489-5195-4a67-8b22-e220f5fdaa17-11

     

    Think I will do the same on the Civic. Was looking for something louder but everything I see is cheap made junk with bad reviews.

     

    I miss my Nathan real train horn that I had installed on my Rideline with separate compressor and 3 gallon tank. But that was $1,500.00 in cost.
    I still have the compressor and tank for some future install. 


  3. 14 minutes ago, Speed99 said:

    I can’t speak a lot to the differences between the Grom and Z125. I watched a few videos and they perform very similarly. I think the Grom has a much larger after market.  Michael can give you lots of info on this. 

     

    For Street, I don’t believe there is a CRF 125 dual sport available. Dirt/trail only. You would have to stick with the Grom/Z125. 

     

    For Mini Racing, the CRF125, Grom, and Z125 are legal for the Stock 100/125 and Stock 100/125 40+ classes. However, very limited mods are permitted. Stock exhaust. Stock motor. Stock suspension but you can upgrade internals and springs. Wheels and controls can be changed. 

     

    Thanks,

    I was more interested in the comparison between the dirt/trail (CRF) style verses the street (Z125) style on the track completing against each other in the Stock 100/125 40+ class. I saw where you were riding the dual sport at Homestead. Just wondering for the adult on a little bike difference, for the fun of it. Probably will not ever actually race but would be fun anyway. Also something to help the potential young rider to have an opportunity to experience the enjoyment of 2-wheels in a safe environment. Would love to get Collin, Brads son, on a bike.


  4. Looking forward to talking with you and Michael at RacerXX.

    I have been looking at the Z125 and the Grom. Since I already own a Suzuki, Honda and Yamaha, I like the thought of adding a Kawasaki to the stable.

    I want to talk with you guys about the advantages and differences between a CRF style verses street style (Grom) for fun/track occasional riding.


  5. Received my new AntiGravity Lithium-ion battery with "restart" technology.

    Came with a notice plus they told me verbally before buying the batter, that the battery arrives with a reduced charge and must be initially charged with an appropriate LIFEPO4 charger.
    It spent about an hour on my Optimate lithium charger and now shows 13.6 volts. I should have but forgot to read voltage right out of  the box.
    At 360 CCA it spins the XX starter motor crazy fast. Starts instantly.
    At $179 It better outlast the 18 year old Bird!


  6. 6 hours ago, SwampNut said:

    Also the auto-disconnect won't help with just self-discharge.  Only for the bike having a vampire draw.  What is that on the BB?  Seems like it should be super low?

     

    According to the manufacture the auto-disconnect is set at 12.4 volts regardless of what draws it down or how fast it is drawn down. Designed specifically to prevent a dead battery from long periods of time with no use.  Since lithium batteries have virtually no natural drain-down time after sitting for months when disconnected, the self discharge from the bike is suppose to  cause the auto-disconnect to happen and then hold the 12.4 volts indefinitely or for at least a year or so they claim.


  7. 15 hours ago, redxxrdr said:

    Thank you for all the information.

    i really appreciate the charging info.  Some brands recommend their own special charger.  But internal balancing circuits make sense.

     

    I already have a mosfet r/R installed.

    But life has limited riding.

    The slow discharge rate should help, until I can ride more.

     

    Now I can make a more educated choice.

     

    Craig,

    The new Anti-Gravity Restart has a built in circuit that cuts off all output as if battery is disconnected when the voltage drops below 12.4 volts. I spent the extra money on this model for that reason since I don't ride the Bird much these days. It cuts off before it drains down below the level to restart the bike. I am told that the worst thing for a lithium battery to experience is low voltage, below 11 volts. Can be instant death. Unlike an AGM where low voltage deaths can many times be rejuvenated, the Lithium not so much. I believe that is what killed my 5 year old Scorpion. To reset the Anti-Gravity after it has cut-off is simple with a push of a button. Crank it up and ride it a bit to recharge the lithium back up its normal 14+ Volts.
    Hoping to be the last battery I will ever buy for the Bird.


  8. My Scorpion Lithium has died!  Bought in 2013. 
    Discovered that he cost has gone up in the past 5 years according to Battery Stuff, due to tariffs.
    I paid 139.99 back in 2013 and now they want 169.99.
    Looking at other options and the new supposed latest and greatest is the "Anti-Gravity Restart".

    It has a built-in circuit that cuts power to the bike if the battery falls below 12.4 volts. If you forget and leave the key on or have accessories draining on it, the battery will automatically shut down all power output until you press a reset button to turn it back on while it still has plenty of power to start your bike. If your bike has its battery buried somewhere Anti-Gravity offers a key fob button to reset the battery. Cool option but not sure how practical? Cost is 199 for the Anti-gravity.

    I have found most lithium batteries have a 3 year replacement warranty. I few have 5 year.

     

    Edited: Battery Stuff offers the Anti-Gravity for $179.99 and free shipping and no tax.
    Leaning in that direction. Haven't found any Lithium models under $144.99 for the YTX14S size.
    For the 35.00 cost difference I will try the "Restart" feature since the Bird does not get out regularly.

    360 CCA

     


  9. 7 minutes ago, jon haney said:

    At worst, I would think the extra oil would just run over the relief valve, robbing HP and further heating the oil.  Since the Bird only has a single rotor oil pump, I'm assuming there is an internal orifice that limits the amount of oil that can go to the cooler, and the rest goes to the engine.  If all oil goes through the cooler before it goes to the engine, this thread would be 8 years old by now, and would likely had to rebuild an engine.

     

    Basically, I'm replacing the trans on the Drag-Bird to a stock unit, and re-installing the balancer shafts.  As I'm cleaning the lower case half, I pop out the seals (or so I thought) for the oil cooler lines.  Then I remember there were already o-rings on the tubes.  What I pulled out was a couple of top-hat style rubber plugs like you might use to keep out dirt and debris, while you do other stuff.  Both plugs are completely intact, and the cooler line connections never leaked.  Being a race bike, I never ran it long enough to over heat the oil.  Crank bearings (factory original) look fantastic.  IDK

     

     

    Sounds to me like you discovered an inside trick to win more races!
    You should get rid of the oil cooler completely for a reduction in weight and then put her back together and run a few more passes to set some new personal best times ! More trophy's - more wins with your new secret formula!

     

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