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Tom

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  1. I've managed to buy a really nice undertail, random on eBay, for $50, but really looking spotless as if the bike from where it was taken from was garaged and barely used. So now I feel bad about butchering that one, and would rather experiment with my current one haha. But the thing is I wouldn't like to do it in metal, would like to keep it plastic. Perhaps I should visit someone who's good with that type of material, I'm not sure if bodyshops would be willing to waste their time on this, will have to check. Anyhow no serious intervention would be needed in my case, just getting rid of that slope and make it "level"........or at least, last case scenario I was thinking - dremeling off the part where those original toolboxes and wheel locks are kept, maybe that would be sufficient. Can't go back once I start cutting so I need to plan it out before real good, I don't want to buy a third tray
  2. Haha ok but after the sumo test, how can I modify this undertray? Other than cut a hole and slap a flat piece of plastic and weld it shut all around. Something like this
  3. Disgusting thread ressurection. I've been thinking about this, I need somewhat bigger space under the seat. What are my options (aside from the elegant Tupperware solution ) - can the undertray plastic be welded? ABS I supposed, can I make into a specific shape, or am I destined for flat pieces and welding. Also, whats some minimal clearance from tyre to the undertray, wouldn't want to have those two touch
  4. Got anymore pics of that pear white Bird, @SwampNut ?
  5. If going for OEM Bird discs on these wheels, the mentioned adapter would be needed, so that the Bird's rotor bolts have to go somewhere - those bolts are 17mm long, so if the adapter isnt 17mm thick, they won't thread all the way in. What if the adapter needs to be, for example, 5mm - I can only see 2 solutions, one would be shorter bolts, another would be making threads in the hub itself, if that's even allowed, to intervene on a alloy wheel like that? I don't know the basics, for example you mentioned that the factory rotor bolts are overkill - but aren't they crucial, they hold the rotor in place and that rotor needs to be rock solid so the brakes can stop your bike down, or am I thinking wrong?
  6. Thanks for finding that number, I didn't manage to find it, bad google-fu skills how'd you find it? This would mean calipers on the Bird are 1mm "out" to fit the CB1300 discs, which seems like something not to hard to retrofit? Also, just as a thought exercise from an absolute layman (me), what if I'd want to keep the Bird's rotors. This is the only solution that comes to mind. The bolts on the outside of this adapter-spacer could be any "length" I presume, or whatever other factor matters for bolt strength. But the inner bolt pattern, where Bird's rotors would go - my question is would shorter rotor bolts even be allowed? Many OEM bikes seem to have 17mm long bolts here...what would happen if 8mm were used, to keep the spacer as "narrow" as possible? Second pic is some aftermarket wheel I found - it seems it uses this very specific type of adapter - spacer? I feel I'm overly complicating this as is, sorry
  7. Did some research today at the garage, measured distance left to right inside of the rotors. '07 CBR600RR - 125.5mm Bird - 134.3mm Now since disc part numbers (and catalog specs) of 600RR and CB1300 rotors are the same, if we presume CB's rotors are 125.5mm apart as well - it would mean a CB wheel with its discs would need approx. 5mm spacer on each side to fit in Birds calipers, correct? Or am I forgetting something?
  8. Tom

    Front fork settings

    My question to him was as follows; I bought a 10N/mm (1kg/mm) linear springs for my CBR1100XX, weighing 100kg in gear, I'm wondering which oil should I use? The manual recommends Honda SS8 which is a 36 centistokes oil, should I stay within these specs or go lighter? Also, the fork spring manual advises 140mm air gap, Honda says 142, I presume both gaps would work but there's no mention is the air gap measured with or without springs inside?
  9. Can I change my username here?
  10. Tom

    Front fork settings

    Commented on some Dave Moss video with my fork issue, he just replied. Spring out is standard procedure for air gap. I would use a 42 to 44cSt oil for those forks. So...he would go thicker than OEM.
  11. Thanks. I'm looking at some bearings catalog, if I'm looking at the right columns, front wheel bearing are as follows; Bird - ID 20 / OD 47 / WID 14 CB - ID 20 / OD 45 / WID 12 If ID are the same on both...this means axles are the same on both, right?
  12. I drew up this comedy of a front view of a wheel...now, if I ever find a CB1300 parked up somewhere, how would I precisely measure the gap from "middle of the caliper" to the hub, in order to figure out if Bird's disc and CB's disc have the same offset?
  13. Tom

    Front fork settings

    Yeah I saw those discussions but I couldn't find cSt rating of Hyperpro's oil, or whatever oil they use under their label. For my fork service I bought Motul's 5W light, which is around 18 cSt, Bird manual recommends Showa SS8, 36 cSt.
  14. Tom

    Front fork settings

    I'll go with their specs, they should know what they're talking about their own product. Although, if I'm not mistaken, this small air gap will stiffen up the front a lot, plus the stiff springs, I hope it doesn't end up acting like pogo, would like to avoid re-doing stuff
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