R1000

Do you think that it get the grime out as well as pulling the drain plug? Good point. A lot of grime in the tray and the oil pickup may be blocked to some extent causing oil flow reduction. Pulling the drain plug is King in this sense.

Gotcha covered, Stef. Sweet thanks how much ya want for it??? Does it come with that sexy sneaker and shower base? A shower base is a great ornamental in the garden

That would be about the worst possible combination for a street driven bike - where you need good and instant braking power immediately when a hard brake or full stop is needed. EBC HH pads are not effective when cold and CF rotors needs to be well heated before they are better than stock rotors. Well, it is for his track bike, not his road bike, so that should be ok then? And I find that the EBC HH pads on my road XX are quite good. I tend to brake very little, so they are nearly always cold, but I never have any issues braking as hard as I need to, even with the shorty levers. Which pads do you think are better for road use? If there are some that are significantly better than the EBC HH ones, I WANT! EBC HH pads are fine for track usage. The Brembo red pads will not make you disappointed on a road bike, guaranteed.

That would be about the worst possible combination for a street driven bike - where you need good and instant braking power immediately when a hard brake or full stop is needed. EBC HH pads are not effective when cold and CF rotors needs to be well heated before they are better than stock rotors.

I understand but extensive running @ AFR 10:1 will foul plugs, wash cylinder walls and contaminate the oil. I would really double-check AFR, especially if the bike was tuned with an exhaust leak. Again, intermittent loads @ 10:1 is OK but not desirable, extensive running at this AFR will cause problems. Let's see what Hank will say, he has for sure more experience in this than me.

Agree, there is no reason to go below 11 to 1, even though a dip into 10's is OK for short load situations. It seems to run extremely rich at light loads, below 10 to 1 in case the AFR curve is valid also in the low speed segment. :icon_think:

Sounds and looks good. Is max boost during run 1 Bar or 10 PSI? it is difficult to see on the video. I guess it is 10 PSI. Clean gauge setup Is the AFR meter out for lunch :icon_think:

Was 260 hp really agreed upon with the seller? It sounds impossible to me that people having experience in this would make a miscalculation of 40+ hp. You need about 14 PSI boost to get 260 whp on a blackbird, a large enough turbo like e.g. TD04 16T, and the necessary support mods to get 260 reliable whp.

I'm sure no one charged you 7 k for a turbo kit. There must be other costs involved that are not a part of the kit. How does the bike feels now? You are 40 hp ahead of a tuned Busa Gen II, plus the effect of extra power down. I guess it must be super strong since it is not only about peak power, the turbo should provide a huge power increase already at lower RPM's.

What was your goal hp wise? 217 hp should work great on a road bike. It is more than they use on Isle of Man racers and these bikes are not slow by any means http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tewwW2IxUEY...feature=related Drag racing is a different business.

+1, progress is never done w/o some interruptions....

WTF, did you forget to connect the Waste Gate hose or what?

Very clean look !

I did a quick calculation and agree with Hank. In case the gasket is 75' compressed the CR will be close to 9.8 and both cams advance about 4 Deg. I don't have the data for stock BB cams, only for Kentcams HON18. That cam is LC 104/104 and would be 100/108 with a 75' gasket. It should be easy to adjust the stock cams to whatever desired like e.g. 105/105 for a starting point. But it may also not be needed depending where they will be, based on stock LC, with raised head. Here is a good article to get some understanding for turbo cams. http://horsepowercalculators.net/superchar...-and-cam-timing I first did the mistake to calculate on the uncompressed gasket and got similar figures as tomek. Very nice work on the Bird MC427 Edit: I now see Hank has been using unadjusted cams since long, which proves it is OK. Lobe center is not as critical as for N/A engines since power can be adjusted by boost as long as the power level is reasonable. I'ts different in professional drag racing where 0.01 second counts.

The bike accelerates best with WOT even if you feel the dip more at maximum power than on light throttle (since the power is very low then). I have never seen a carbed BB that not has a huge power dip around 5500 rpm.