Para045
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Posts posted by Para045
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It is all academic discussion.
Race Tech springs are black in colour,I don`t think he would want them anyway.
Stock front springs are almost of correct rate for that weight range,you can`t take those calculators too seriously.
1.2 would be waaaaaaaaaay too stiff.
+1 I'm ~300lb's and running 1.2's and I wouldn't go any heavier
@~220lb's they would be way too stiff 
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Other than a few minor things like they repositioned the R/R around 2005 to the other side of the bike and changed the screens around (had tinted for a couple of years), colour and decal changes and stuff like that it works up till they stopped making the XX in 07
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I too have heard good things of the Jaws springs but they don't make them heavy enough for me @~ 300lb's, a lot of the others like Racetech are the same
I ended up getting Sonic Springs as they were the only ones who had anything over 1.1kg/mm :icon_think: They were listed as ST1100 springs back then but they are the same size
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Go to Race Tech's website and use their spring rate calculator to see what you'll need.
Race Tech's Calculator will tell you you need a 18 Kg spring, 9" long, for a 210 rider, with the stock shock,................. which has been discontinued by all the manufactures that I could find.
Now does that mean you need a 18Kg spring for that shock.... I don't know.
I would think so.... since you'll be using the XX's linkage geometry.
+1 for Racetech
I have had a 900RR shock in mine for ~4 years (~70 000km's) and I put an 1100lb Eibach spring on it for my weight (~300lb's
), I didn't get the valving changed and it did OK :icon_think: The stock spring is quite a bit longer than the RR one and isn't tapered at one end like the RR so cannot be swapped over, you will need a small (~13mm/1/2'') spacer collar made up for the Eibach spring as it isn't quite long enough or tapered like the stocker When I did mine from memory the RR and the stock shock came up with slightly different figures when I tried both bikes in the calculator so I went midway between them
I am looking at getting it re-gassed at the moment and maybe getting the valving changed as well as I feel it has started to get a bit of a wallow up on some larger bumps and lumps in the road, especially at speed
Not as good as having an Öhlins Öhlins/Penske etc but then $460AUD is a lot cheaper than $1500AUD -
One guy said there was a very cheap option as opposed to buying new springs,it was to get some washer's the correct dia as tube 2/3mm thick and ad on top of spring to increase tension. He said it worked well for him and its a cheap and easy test. Rob
That's OK for small changes to increase preload but wont help if the springs are way too light, all it really is doing is reducing suspension travel and more likely to bottom out quicker IMHO
That is way too much sag on the front forks. Normally, the ideal amount of loaded sag (you on the bike with whatever gear you would normally wear) is roughly 1/3 of the fork travel. If for example you have 4.8 inches of fork travel, that would equate to 122 to 123 millimetres of travel. Divide that number (123) by 3 and you come up with 41mm of loaded sag.Yeah everything I've read suggests around 35-38mm (1 3/8"-1 1/2") :icon_think: From your weight the stock springs would be a little light :icon_think:
Type of Riding: Street
Rider Weight (without gear): 218 lbs
Bike Weight (semi-wet): 492 lbs
FRONT FORK SPRINGS
Recommended Fork Spring Rate for Street: 1.108 kg/mm
Stock Fork Spring Rate: .890 kg/mm
From memory the 1100lb spring on the shock is ~ 19.6 kg/mm so a fraction heavy for you
REAR SHOCK SPRING
Recommended Rear Shock Spring Rate for Street: 17.95 kg/mm
Stock Shock Spring Rate: 16.8 kg/mm
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The shock will fit all years, BUT, the spring is lighter than it's supposed to be for most riders. So people who have done the change either change the spring, or are very light. It's been a very long time since I did this, so you might search the garage or ask about it for more details
Yeah you'll need a heavier spring, the Blade spring is even lighter than the std XX spring
I got an Eibach 0600-225-1100 (6"L x 2.25"Diam x 1100lb's) for mine and then needed a 1/2 spacer/collar made up 1st 3 pics are mine last is a collar another guy on OzBB got made up :icon_think:
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Put me on the list for the first run of the repros...I will take a set to when these get going.
+3
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Never use one as I ride my Bird all year round
I do have a trickle charger but have only used it a few times when I've had work to do on the bike like redoing the forks and head bearings etc and the bike was off the road for a few weeks
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Now I know that if I buy a bike outside the state, it has to have more than 7500 miles when I bring it into the DMV the very first time. I typically only look at bikes for sale within CA now to avoid the DMV issues. The DMV here SUCKS! Plus, now they have that law where if it's an out-of-state vehicle and you have owned it less than 1 year when you bring it into the state, you need to pay CA a gap tax (tax difference between the location where you last registered it and your current CA location). On a car, this could be thousands of $$ that a person could owe the state just for having brought the car into the state! Total BS.
Can you drive vehicles around in CA (or any other states
) with the rego from out of that state? Here in West Aus we are allowed 3 months before we need to re-register the bike in WA (I believe the other states work the same ), this is to allow for people that are on holiday or in the state on a temporary basis to still use the vehicle without re-registering it I know of lots of people that don't bother and just drive the vehicle and even pay their rego to the other state on the net :icon_think:
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My 2c, From everything I've read on various XX sites the stock shock is usually toast by 50 000km's so 70k miles it would be well due
My OEM shock was knackered when I bought my 98XX from the original owner @~32 000km I replced it with a rebuilt/resprung 900RR shock and it has since done ~ 70 000km's, may look at getting it regassed and the valving altered sometime soon as she doesn't seem to handle as well as it used to :icon_think: -
however, you could have bought one for a LOT less than the prices you were quotedGreeting from South Africa,
+1 From what I've seen posted by others including brianmacza, getting anything in SA is a lottery and costs a fortune
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Got about 4 years out of my last Yuasa YTX12-BS :icon_think: That is getting ridden regularly all year round with HID's
Was starting to go before the crash I had in June and that with the delay getting the bike repaired by the dealer obviously killed it Now have a Power Volt YTX14-BS for $185, was looking at getting a bigger Yuasa YTZ14-S but they were $250+ The std Yuasa YTX12-BS was $105 :icon_think: -
Yeah I got a (my 1st) "major service" @~80 000km's done by a trusted local mobile mechanic and he did brake/clutch fluid flush/bleed and new coolant, greased all the moving points, did and oil/filter change and checked the carbs balance as well as checking the shims and it cost me $360, all were within spec after 48 000km (that I've put on the bike)
He told me it wouldn't have cost any more to do the shims as he knows they rarely need it and factors it into the price :icon_think: He also redid the vacuum hoses on my Scottoiler as I had just tapped into the vacuum line at the tank and he reckoned the fitting into the head was better and would affect the fuel tap :icon_think: -
I've tried, Lord knows I've tried to get information from the available forums and people who might know to either fit a VFR system or at least find out if the Australians actually do have ABS on their later model birds.
NO! The BB/XX never came with ABS anywhere AFAIK and certainly not in Oz
I have wondered about it myself whether a VFR system would fit but don't have the knowledge or $$$ to try it -
When I fitted my VFR bars they were a lot closer to the circlip (from memory only about 2mm clearance as opposed to 5mm odd) than the std bars but there was still enough room to fit them on at the height of 39mm as per the manual :icon_think:
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My 98 manual says 39mm from the top of the fork leg to the top triple clamp, the later manual on here has a pic which looks like it shows the measurement to the top of the fork cap
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styling mouse? I'm hair challenged, bro!
Ha ha I just use the missus's
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Finally, a light coating of hair spray or spray trim adhesive is all you need if you want to use something to add a bit more stick to the job (probably not necessary). The only caveat is to install the grips quickly in their final position as you won't have much time to do it right before the adhesive sets up.
Yeah I usually use hair spray or styling mouse and it works well
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Thanks for the direction. Not quite the type of fender I was looking for. Its for an XX, but I say UJM because I've never seen that type of fender available for an XX, so adapting would be needed. Something a little different was the idea.
Probably too expensive BUT - Magical Racing
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According to manual 3.9L/4.1 US Quarts at filter change
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Hope you have more luck here than on the "Premier XX Board"
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Are all those deleted's for sale as a job lot or are they for separate sale
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From what I’ve seen the LED’s are being used as day time running lights and not as the actual head light. I think Audi uses a LED-HID combo.
+1 I don't think that LED's are good enough yet to be used for headlights alone
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valve stems.
They have great prices on tires also.
Yeah I have those on my bike, very good
New rider with chain questions
in The Garage
Posted
+1 I have the same combo, Gold DID ZVM2/Stealth Tri Metal rear sprocket, got mine from Sprocketcenter for a good price