Warp11XX

Bump...last call...🙃

Bump...last call...otherwise they'll just hang in the shed collecting dust for the estate sale...🙃

Yes...SWVA....

Very close....all stainless model....can is slightly oval.

Full 4 into 1 stainless exhaust with RS-3 canister. Good condition with 1 missing canister rivet and one small scratch. Pics can happen if interested. $250 plus shipping from 24134. I ran this system for about 35K miles and switched to a Micron setup. Great power, very nice sound. May have PC-3 custom Dyno map, but not sure I can find the CD or recover it from a crashed drive....maybe.... Not online frequently these days, so email to hondasixpak@yahoo.com will get the quickest response. Thanks, T

-0- mile stock takeoff cans - $100 + shipping from 24134. Not stored carefully and noticed a couple small, light scratches... probably polish out without much effort. I'll go $75 if I don't have to box and ship. Local pickup will also get you a free home cooked meal and a reacharound...😘 I'm online infrequently these days, so email to hondasixpak@yahoo.com will get a significantly quicker response. Thanks, T

I have one of those too. The powder that the voodoo priest gave me to sprinkle at the garage door threshhold is effective so far. I still keep a full bucket of water nearby for emergency use just in case one of her flying monkeys happens to lick up the powder when I'm not watching. Oh what a world, what a world.....

Thieving cocksuckers! I'm sorry and I hope that you can recover as much as possible and rebuild your baby. Good luck!

I still have it and managed to put a couple thousand miles on it this summer. Selling it wouldn't really have much impact on my wallet but would really hurt my heart. I honestly didn't think I would ever have one no matter how much I had lusted for it for so many years. The way it came to me was a once in a lifetime opportunity of being in the right place at the right time and knowing the right people who had some kind of freaky intuition that I was the guy who would appreciate it the most and give it the best home possible. She was just a little neglected for a few years but never unloved and never left outside to wither. They are special machines that have no true comparison. Even though BMW tried and the K16's are really impressive, they don't have the soul and personality of the mighty X. Glad yours is humming again! What pipe is that?

Caution....danger, danger Will Robinson.... If the float was stuck to the point that it was "just pissing fuel all over the place" , check the crankcase and cylinders for fuel intrusion before cranking. It just might save your engine....

It'll be a bit before I can focus on that particular project but I'm definitely interested. Do you monitor PM's or do I need to hit this thread again when ready? Thanks!

I could imagine it would be sorta tough. Would enough info be available from pictures and detailed measurements?

Could you fab something up to mount a Givi type box on a CBX? I'm looking into doing something solid and sturdy enough to use the Givi as a pillion backrest.

It's quite possible and quite noticeable...or at least it is to me. Why? I'm a little OCD (and superstitious) about some things and change isn't always good..... My F bike is a a moderately hot-rodded 1123 motor that I built and broke in using the Valvoline. Being air cooled and only being run in ultra hot summer conditions, it makes me feel like the heavier and more viscous oil offers better overall wear protection....it snaps up the tach a little faster than the XX. So far, so good at about 25K miles and a few additional mods to the top end to increase it's convenience and "streetability". It's a pain in the ass to find 100+ octane fuel just anywhere....

I've never had shifting issues with either of these oils but I can say with confidence that the XX mill revs distinctly and quite noticeably quicker using GN-4 10-40 as opposed to the 10-40 Valvoline MC oil. This is my $.02 worth and I'm not knocking the Valvoline product at all since I still use it exclusively in my F bike in the 20-50 weight.

I've never gotten 15K out of a rear tire....9K has been tops for my experience. I'm not that much of an aggressive rider, but there isn't any moss on the tires either. I figure it's the fact that with me in the saddle, we're rolling at almost 1300 pounds gross weight without a passenger. My gripe is the lack of choices in tires that will meet spec. Pretty much all that is out there now that I would have is the Dunlop E3 Bias. I liked the Michelin Pilot Sport, but they discontinued it a few years back. Dunlop wears better anyway. I fucking HATE Metzler tires and will never have another one....on anything! And yes, it is a Honda, so it cups the shit out of rear tires... sometimes even cups the front if you push the mileage far enough. Developed a small oil leak right after 100K that I still have to trace down....coming from the front somewhere. Found it after extended riding through hurricane level downpour a couple weekends ago. Small drip but I'm OCD about oil leaks....

Nope....nuttin special....elbow grease and patience.... Swingarm requires a special castle socket but not needed for tire changes.

Not exactly correct..... I have had a '92 GL1500A Aspencade for about 10 years and just turned 100K miles last week....I bought it with 52K on the clock and I've put on a few tires.... No problems are seen with the rear diff and no "special" tools are required. What is required is patience and preferably having a lift that has the removable plate section under the rear tire. The Harbor Freight standard 1000 pound lift is marginal due to the big girls total weight...it really struggles to lift it from bottom without a helping hand. One exhaust can (left side I think) also has to be removed to clearance the axle bolt for full removal. A hitch mounted for trailer towing slightly adds to the difficulty....you have to loosen the forward mounting tab and tweak it down temporarily out of the way of the axle bolt as well. With all of these things at hand and ready, it takes a little over two but normally less than three hours to do a tire change at my own personal pace. If you don't have a lift, it's a royal pain in the ass but can be done on the centerstand. Honda service manual directs you to remove the entire rear "clip"...top box, bags, and all....it can come off as one piece (as long as you don't have a hitch mounted that is...). It's not that big of a deal but requires a helper to lift it off and place it back on. Time consuming but doable for moderate skilled technical experience. I could see easily charging $250 to an off the street customer.....

http://blacksburg.craigslist.org/mcy/5582021355.html Feel free to contact directly or through me. Thanks for any interest and promotion!

If the fuse checks good, vigorously work the engine stop switch several times. Spray it with plastic safe contact cleaner if you have some. Mine actually stalled like that in a Mickey D's drive thru one time. I was troubleshooting as I duck walked it from the order station to the window. I worked the switch several times and it primed and started back up no problem. Never has happened again.

Thanks for the feedback guys. Nobody (except me) buys a CBX as a rider. Collector market usually doesn't have problems with finding parts....they're out there, just pricey. The JetHot dulled the chrome but stopped the slight corrosion that had started to the backside on a couple of the downpipes. My dream was to pony up the bucks at some point soon and get them fully rechromed. Dreams have a way of fading out when everything you've done and worked for in the last 35 years starts swirling around the bowl.....

Is that reasonable? High/low? Dirty bikes need bath and better pics...

Need some feedback on pricing and checking for interest....possibly/most likely for sale: '82 CBX - 40K mi. - Blue on White - all OEM with exception for suspension - replaced rear shock with Progressive 420 and Progressive fork springs. Original suspension parts included. Only farkles are added DualStar grip heaters and aftermarket windscreen (tinted, slightly taller than stock, with vents) . Previous owner (I'm 2nd) JetHot clear coated OEM pipes to preserve them. Bike is in good condition and regularly ridden. Projected price $4800. '82 CB900F - 102K miles - in F2 badged configuration with Hondaline fairing. Replacement heavy built 1123cc engine at 81K miles. DynoJet tweaked carbs. V&H 4-1 pipe. Custom starter clutch. Custom oversize battery config. Optional Hondaline gauges (Altimeter and OA Temp.). Progressive Suspension shocks and springs. Corbin G&L seat. CB1100F swingarm and wheels conversion. Super high quality show level custom paint with OEM repro decals (Blue on Black). DualStar grip heaters. Original engine (cases never split at 81K) may be included. Projected price $3800. '05 Rebel 250 - less than 700 miles. Basically a new motorcycle with added small windscreen. All OEM. Projected price $2500. Anyone interested? Are these realistic prices?

I like the balanced out look and the deeper tone of the duals.

Low end flat spot can be tweaked out with the right map if you're running a Power Commander. I had the Yosh and PC-III put on right out of the box so no previous config was known to me. When I had it mapped on a dyno a month or so later, the difference in overall smoothness and a much more linear power curve was very evident. I didn't notice a loss of power or less smooth performance when switching to OEM header and Micron cans but I had installed a custom map for that particular combo right off the bat too. I honestly don't think there is a huge difference in the final numbers you get at the tire if a map that maximizes performance and minimizes the rough transitions that would or could exist otherwise is used. P.S. - I'll be happy to send you my map if you would like. I think it is already posted here on the forum somewhere if you have good .org search fu.... Drop me a PM if you need it and can't find it online here somewhere.