DirtTorpedo

Ahh, the manual says 0.2 mA or less, so I probably do have a leak. I'll start pulling fuses.

Hey, long time no post, but I've still been lurking. Is this still an XX board, or can I only ask questions about the ZX-14 now? :icon_nono: Is a 1.7 mA leak too high on a 2001 XX? My battery won't hold a charge for shit. As soon as I take it off the charger, it begins dropping at a rate of .01 V/sec (I.e. A full volt every minute or so.) This is while it's hooked up to the bike. As soon as I disconnect the negative cable this voltage drop slows way down, but doesn't quite stop. I am getting a current leak of 1.7 mA. Seems a bit high. I have disconnected all aftermarket electrical crap - except for the one HID light. The battery is brand new (but has already been sucked dry several times.) WTF is going on? Thanks. - Ted Edit: Leak is 1.7 milli-amps, not nano.

8 blinks = loose or poor contact on TPS, open or short TPS wire, Faulty TPS TPS being throttle position sensor of course. See page 5-20 of your honda service manual for diagnostic info. I put the wrong cover sheet on my TPS report? I never got that memo. Thanks, I'll check it out.

Didn't see shit in the service manual about it. Anyone know the codes?

Thanks. Well, that went surprising smoothly. Of course, I haven't ridden it yet. . .

That clear plastic cylinder around the bulb - stay or go?

Stupid question: The Service Manual, page 13-24 calls for 483ml (16.3 oz) of oil. That's PER FORK, right? Reason I ask is that I only sucked out about half that volume in old (very dirty) oil per fork. I used a brake-bleeder pump rather than removing the wheel and using the drain plug. The manual also says to measure the level to be 5.6" from the top of the fork pipe. I don't get the point of this - if I sucked out all the old and put in the proper volume of new, shouldn't that be sufficient? Or do you never really get all the old stuff out? thanks, Ted

Is it supposed to shutdown? The digital thermometer starts blicking at you when it hits 250 - which I have seen a few times. I thought you were supposed to shut it down yourself when that happens. I saw 260 once and was about to shut it down for fear of damaging it, but traffic started to move, so I kept going. But afterwards the battery didn't have enough juice to restart. Oh, then get this - I'm now in downtown Boston on a busy Friday afternoon with a dead battery - and some guy wants my spot - I tell him he can have it - if he gives me a jump. He says he doesn't have time for that. ??? Like you're going to find another space anytime soon? But then he still expects me to push it out of the way for him anyway! Are you f'n kidding me?! I was most colorful in telling him to get lost. I ALMOST succeded in getting it jumped from another decent person (who didn't even want the spot!) before he made it through the next light. Too bad, I really wanted to lane split past him and test the protectiveness of my titanium gloves.

It turns out one of the quick disconnect leads going from the brake lever into that starter/kill-switch assembly was loose. Thanks for the tips. Now if I can just get to the inspection station before I'm caught. . . Ted

Any guesses where my problem lies? Oh yeah - - I was also supposed to get my inspection sticker 2 days ago. D'oh!!

That's what I forgot to do - disconnect the cable. Thanks guys.

Trying to remember how this works. Does this sound right: 1. Multimeter set to DC amps. 2. Positive test lead on battery negative terminal. 3. Negative test lead on bike frame/grounded part. 4. Reading < .2 mA is acceptable. Sound about right? I'm getting a reading of 0, which I hate, because there is no way to distinguish between a no leak, and me just not doing the test properly. :???: I'd feel more confident if I read something. If I turn on the headlight during the test, should I definately get a reading?

I guess my 2001 battery has gone dead a few too many times, as it doesn't seem to want to hold much of a charge these days. Any opinions on best type/brand to replace it with?

Thanks for the tips. Apparently, my problems weren't completely from my own bogus connections. I had hooked up a headlight modulater, and the symtoms were that the headlight would periodically go out - and stay out - then come back on several minutes later. (Much slower than the 8 flashes per second as advertised.) I completly pulled the modulater, and this was still happening. Then a VFR owner told me of a similar problem he once had with a bad starter switch. Next time my light went out, I tapped the starter, and it came right back on. So I guess I'll be replacing that. While searching the forum for related topics, I see you can also use the starter as a flash-to-pass. Cool, never knew that. And I've had a CBR for 9 years. Another side note - any opinions on headlight modulaters? Ted

Is there some trick to crimping these on to a wire? After a typical electrical mod I always have one or two come off the end of the wire within a few days. Am I just not squeezing enough? What a pain in the ass these things are. And they always wait to come loose AFTER you've put all the fairings and stuff back over them. It's like they know.