hillbillyxx

Unopened like new best offer.

I replaced a wood burning insert with an England Stove Works pellet stove 4 years ago. It has been nothing but a pain in the ass since the first. The combustion blower motor burnt out the first month it was out of warranty. Last year was decent with just one auger motor replacement. This winter it has been down twice with melted auger motors. It's almost enough to make splitting wood seem like fun. Most likely you need to call their tech support and let them check it out. All the new electronic stoves have a self test mode. The tech guy at England admits that if you don't like to tinker with something don't buy a pellet stove. I hear that the free standing models are a little better due to running cooler than the inserts. When they work they work pretty well.

If you go the new route be sure to use the new Sharkbite fittings. They are the cats meow.

I knew it was coming. But when you expect things they aren't so bad.

Up for sale here is my old Shoei. The size is xl but I added some extra padding as it was to long for my head.It shows some normal wear and tear but has not been on anything harder than my head. I have a price in mind but will let you guys decide what it's worth to you. If no one wants it I guess it's on to egay. Pictures are available if you want to pm your email.

I have the rear section of the wiring harness off of my old 2000 if anyone would like to have. It might be good for practice or spare connectors but was replaced due to the efi light staying on. If no one speaks up it's going in the trash soon.

SOLD. PM sent your way. Thanks. The is a guy on the busa board making these. They are Buell pegs that someone is cutting down to fit.

Sounds like a breaker kicking out after the detector turns on.

I am assuming that is just a repair estimate for the other guys insurance. That was the estimate for a Suzuki dealer to put it back together. The other guys insurance fixed things up pretty fast and I just put it back stock, not caring about the cost. Some of the guys on the Suzuki forum were offering me steals on stock pipes and cans but I just felt like the other guys insurance could put it all back for me.

I was in the gym doing my thing this week Got to watch some idiot hit my new ride with a GMC truck. It almost went over but he backed up and the front wheel came back to the ground. Damage was to the right mid pipe and muffler and side stand mostly. The main lesson I have learned is to park somewhere that a car can't get to as in the sidewalk . The son of a gun never even said he was sorry. Just kept saying that he never saw my bike. Now for the good news. All the parts are supposed to be here and on the bike Friday afternoon. GSXR parts seem a lot easier to come by than Honda XX.

Mine weighs 560 pounds full of fuel and with all my junk for work strapped on.

I had to drive 100 miles today to trailer the stepsons F3 home. It was parked at his work and got struck from the rear hard enough to fly 3 feet before landing on the right side. It didn't slide much after hitting the ground from looking at the marks on it. All the plastic on the right side is broken or scratched with the right bar end missing and brake lever bent. Thats all bad enough but after taking a measuring tape to it the swingarm seems to be to close to the frame on the right side right at the swingarm bolt. Nothing else measures the same on each side as in rear sets and heel guards. It's going to a shop tomorrow for an estimate as his company has agreed that they are at fault due to brake failure on the equipment that hit him. Plus he was properly parked and it was on camera. What do I need to be looking for to make sure the frame is straight before they put it back together? Any advice?

Exactly. I use the adjustment marks as a guide to get the adjustment close then fine tune by watching how the sprocket teeth line up in the chain while rolling the wheel.

Find out how high the water was, how long it sat, and what was done to the bike after the water went down. This is one good deal that may cost a fortune. :cry: Don't count on getting the true story about how deep the water got or any other details. Mine was supposed to have not gotten wet more than 1 foot deep but that was bull crap. Had to replace the ECM and the rear section of the harness. My advice is to start running now and don't look back. It would be better to buy a newer used bike at a higher cost.

Finally got around to changing out the plugs and the air filter while I was in there. Seems to run a lot smoother. Now it's time to change the antifreeze and a cct when John gets them in.

I should add that my plugs weren't the 9A-9H iridiums. They were the other ones. I can't remember the part number right now, but it's on the NGK web site. The plugs that I bought are NGK CR9EHIX-9. Are these the correct plug?

Bought the NGK plugs today at Advance Auto locally for 6.96 plus tax. That seemed to be a pretty good deal and cheaper than the online stores when you factor in shipping. Now comes the fun part.

Harness replacement cured my problems. Honda replaced the ECM under warranty but it didn't fix the problem. Another dealer called the Honda tech line and they had him run some tests on the harness which it failed. Harness replaced and no problems in 9000 miles. My bike is also a flood damaged vehicle so that could have been a contributing factor.

Try some parts washer solution on a rag. It does a much better job than WD40 and evaporates in a few minutes.

Try Astro Glyde warming. It's opens up the pores in the metal and gets into all those tight places.

I actually had to open my kit yesterday for the first time. Did you know that there are actually some tools in there?

Agree. Only way I found to lock the rear with the LBS in place was to use the front lever. You can pretty much stand on the rear pedal without locking the rear the way it's set up. Thats a good discription of the way mine feels. I have no complaints about the way it stops but the rear pedal always felt weak when used alone.

Have you tried Astro Glyde personal lubricant. It's gets really slick when mixed with warm water. Florida rain is warm water right. Or try WD40 to loosen it up then a little drop of spray grease should do it.

My rear brake has never been strong enough to lock the rear wheel since I bought it used. Lately it's been getting worse so today I bled the brakes until fresh fluid came out. Then I checked and roughed up the rear pads and rotor with sandpaper. The pad thickness is still over 50% Now the pedal is full at the first stroke and feels solid. The brake action is a little better but the rear wheel still won't lock up under hard pedal pressure. Where should I start looking next? Could it be the rear master cylinder?

Reach behind the frame rail in front of the left passenger footpeg and wiggle the harness. There is a connection inside the harness that you can't see. That was my problem. Do a search for FI light and you will find a link with pictures showing how to clean the connection. Mine was to far gone to clean and had to be replaced.